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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. So I guessed somewhat correctly...? You're attempting to capture a moment in history (real or imaginary it does not matter).... Rather than a stuffed-and-mounted display... a hint of activity, an implied movement..... Andy
  2. Very nice, can't wait to see her all finished up.... Although I will wait patiently for you to post your pictures... Unlike a certain you-know-who... Still fishin? Andy
  3. Um.... Sure hope those are coffee beans... Not something Kevin's wabbits left all over the table.... Andy
  4. Very nice job on the gunport lids... I like the idea that she's not going to look like a porcupine... I'm guessing more like she's just starting to clear for action? Andy
  5. Look at it this way.... It is the room on the ship with the most windows.... So there is a chance that people will notice (I mean, other than us, whom you've enlightened with your pictures). It's not like you detailed all the other cabins and spaces that would never be seen again except by X-ray... Or maybe you did and you're just not telling... Anyway, good to hear you're back and in better health. Andy
  6. Sitting at the same table as Sjors can be a dangerous proposition even without me flinging mud all over the place....
  7. I wouldn't necessarily call your tree branches misguided...or bizarre for that matter... It was a creative attempt to realize some decoration, using a technique seen in other kits. You still deserve full points for imagination. Ferit is absolutely correct; don't give up Andy
  8. <<Andy grabs a bucket full of muddy water and pours it over Sjors>> Messy enough for you now?
  9. Yeah... And don't go for cheap knock offs either... Found a cheap-o one at the local hobby shop once... The cut of the collet was just off centre enough that when I used it for the first time, the weight of a #75 bit made the whole rig bend 90 degrees... Made the dremel do all sorts of weird things... Andy
  10. Mark, it's that whole trial and error bit.... Mostly error... But when it comes to these things, if I have the power to change them, I will. I may spend another year and a half on rigging, but it will be right in the end. I'm already considering redoing the mizzen stay collar. I hadn't yet wrapped my head around serving the thing when I made it... Now that I have it figured out, (and a piece already the right size to copy from), shouldn't take me too long to whip off another. BE... Not counting glue drying time... Which isn't really that long (using GS Hypocement... highly recommended!) I've managed to make up a successful replacement collar in about half an hour. I have to make a note to commit my measurements to a piece of paper before I forget... Robbyn.... There's almost nothing quite like soaking in the lake up to your neck, with a nice cold beer... Ham, sorry to say, but I may find further use for that collar yet... Besides, the intermediate serving suffered a little when I removed the heart... Have fun out on the islands Andy
  11. Well... here I find myself back in the city for a couple days... had to run some errands...and chores.... (laundry... ) So while waiting for the machine to cycle through I made a stab at some rigging fittings... ok... one rigging fitting... Made my first attempt at one of the bowsprit bobstay collars. A most complicated bit of serving if ever there was. Two eyes served and spaced out far enough to accomodate a heart...or something to that effect. I met with partial success. No issues with the actual construction of the collar. Starting with the first eye, I served about 9mm of line. I tied it off and removed it from the serving machine. I formed the eye by passing the end though a couple strands, and secured it with a dab of glue. When that was dry I measured off what I thought was enough line to wrap around the heart, plus a couple millimeters, and made another 9mm run of serving. Made the second eye the same as the first, then when it was dry, served the intervening line. I then added the heart and seized it in place. I was feeling pleased with myself untill I held it up under the bowsprit.... uh oh.... not enough space between the eyes and the heart... hrm.... well... chalk one up as a learning experience.... I'll be heading back up north tomorrow, too hot to stay in the city....
  12. It's a shame Anton has not reappeared (username "perthshipyard"), he was building the HMS Diana and had taken the time to paint all the frieze work by hand. Very talented with a brush. You would have been able to pick up more than a few tips from him. Andy
  13. Good start... I guess I got lucky in that most of my hull construction was done before the great crash. I had a huge selection of logs to follow, so at the moment I only have vol. 4 to help me with the rigging. If I had to do it over again, knowing what I knw now, I'd have the whole set for guidance. In the mean time, keep asking questions and we'll help you as best we can. Andy
  14. Yeah.... I think on this one I have to agree with the crowd... Nice idea but I feel it would end up having your ship look like it was covered with a hedge rather than the effect you're going for. Andy
  15. I figure the standard plank length could be either 15 or 20 feet. As for the butt shift... Try on some scrap and see which one you like better. If you want a good resource, look into buying a copy of the Swan series, The Fully Framed Modelship, from Seawatch books. Highly recommended. A word of caution though.... You may find other parts of this kit that might require modification based on new information you discover in this series of books..... It might lead you down a strange mysterious path.... To an alternate universe.... Andy
  16. I like the treatment you gave the bulkheads, no need for paint there at all... I would, however, paint the pillars... One thing you may want to try is to start off with a yellow ochre base and then use various acrylic washes to get them to look like the same colour as the bulkhead. Either that or just leave them yellow ochre for contrast. Your choice. Andy
  17. If I was to do it again, I think I would plank the deck after gluing in place. I found that as I planked, the false deck took a concave curve. When first fit, this resulted in a ridge running down the centreline. It too a lot of clamping to knock that down, and in some hidden places, I've got a small gap where things didn't close up quite right. The only expediency that I could see from planking first then installing, you can plank right over any openings, turn the thing over and cut them out from underneath. Andy
  18. Actually... If you don't mind me bringing up the copper plate subject one more time... A small suggestion... For those of us who are half cracked enough to add plates to the leading edge of the stem, or the like, would it be possible to supply a small quantity of plates that are symmetrical, as opposed to the directional left/right plates on offer? Andy
  19. I'm with Mark, here, on that one! Great job on that little nutshell of a model.... One question though.... How many more of them do you have to do? Andy
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