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Everything posted by realworkingsailor
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A fully Rigged Model Shipways Confederacy.......
realworkingsailor replied to yvesvidal's topic in Wood ship model kits
From what I've heard, the "USS" designation didn't come into being until well into the 19th century. Correctly, I don't think she should have any designation beyond "Continental Frigate" Andy -
A fully Rigged Model Shipways Confederacy.......
realworkingsailor replied to yvesvidal's topic in Wood ship model kits
I think I've seen those pics before, but just the same...Whoa dang! She looks very impressive Andy -
Not working too well Augie.... need to find a new strategy....
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Honestly, clear Windex, or any clear window cleaner is the best stuff to use. As for cleaning, you don't need to use it full strength, cut it with water (about 1:1), and you'll be fine. Put some in a jar and dunk the nose of the airbrush in and pull the trigger, let it cycle through for a few minutes (it will make a lot of bubbles though...). After you do that you can pretty much clean the rest up with just water. I don't know if you have them or not, but you can get special fine brushes for cleaning (from Badger, I think). they'll get rid of anything left over. And as for odour or vapours... Windex is a household cleaner, the quantities used for airbrushing are nowhere near enough to cause any ill effects. Honestly, you'd need an open 5 gallon bucket of the stuff on a hot stove before you need to start worrying about fumes. On another note, over time, alcohol will break down any rubber components in an airbrush (O-rings, seals, etc.), another reason I'd avoid it. Andy
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Not quite.... was going to stick you in the capsule instead of a thermo nuclear device.... Help you live up to that "Space Oddity" role....
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**Looks around for the "Launch" button**
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They can mix, but take care because of the volatility of alcohol, the paint may cure en-route from the spray gun to the surface, resulting in a chalky finish. Distilled water will slow the drying time, which may seem ok, but you'll need to keep the coats thin in order to avoid weeping. Ultimately, water and alcohol or ammonia all have different specific gravities, and in large concentrations can break down the paint matrix all together. matching the paint's solvent with a thinner of the same substance is ultimately the most ideal route. I know Model Expo paints, and they are almost as thick as peanut butter, but they hold up well using an ammonia based thinner, and can be stored for long periods of time thinned. The yellow ochre I used on my Pegasus build has been stored in a thinned state for over 6 months and has not shown any signs of breakdown or degradation. A quick stir, and we're back in business. I don't know if you could get away with that using water or alcohol. Andy
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Do I still have time to cobble together a catapult to help with the launch? (Or an air canon?) Maybe someone can help with a JATO bottle or something? I'd say try me... but you're supposed to be among the bunch that keeps things PG around here... :P Oh and Sjors, congrats on the quarter galleries... hope you need less glue going forward... Andy
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What? What'd I miss? Huh? Holy moley! Dat's a lotta copper! Nice job.... time to sneak a towel Andy
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- agamemnon
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Great to see another Peggy build. I'll offer what advice I can, unfortunately most of my early work (at least the writing part) got wiped out in the "Great Crash". Don't be in a rush to secure the focsle and quarter deck before you've finished the second planking and interior bulkhead planking. You may want to add more details and they really just get in the way. Also when you plank the main deck (unlike what the instructions say, you can just leave off the few outside planks until you snap off the bulkhead extensions, don't bother with those odd athwartship running planks. The MDF is relatively strong, so you shouldn't have too many problems fairing the hull. And don't be shy either Just a hint, the bearding line should connect to the forward edge of the bulkheads, as the aft edge will be faired away. Oh yeah, cutting a rabbet is not hard (very recommended), and easiest done before you attach the bulkheads permanently. If you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask, there are more than a few of us builders around here who've gone down the same path as you and we've all made through safely. One more thing, before I forget, when you go to attach the stern counter pieces, use the quarter deck as a guide to get the angle right for the outer pieces. They should be lined up with it's outside edge, not square to the last bulkhead (the inside ones should be square). I made that mistake, but caught it before the glue set, but others have been caught with it as well. Good luck with your build Andy
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After stopping by the grocery store on the way home from fishing... "No dear, there really is such a thing as the rocky mountain river flounder, look I caught two of them, they go after flies like nobody's business"
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- syren
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Frightening is not the word here.... it's utterly disturbing..... Of course.. I admit I have to restrain myself from pulling the "flush" lever on this thread.... being party to a group of stereotypically dirty minded sailors and all.... And Aldo..... that didn't help **Grabs the whistle pull cord again and sounds 5 short rapid blasts** Andy
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Seriously? Are you sure you're working at 1/8th scale? You're not putting us on and building 1:1 are you? Just incredible... Andy
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For a second there was a glimmer of hope...... some progress... and then.... Back to CTD status... (CTD: Circling The Drain) Andy
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I think that one just stuck out because it was just so d**ned UGLY.... And then to see another one the same... Andy
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And I even guessed it too... ha! Pg 49.. You must have some kind of patience to find that....
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No it was on the new site... Not that it really matters or anything... I'm not going back through 92 pages to find it...
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I think we've seen that one or one of her identical sisters before.....
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