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realworkingsailor
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Everything posted by realworkingsailor
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Well... here I find myself back in the city for a couple days... had to run some errands...and chores.... (laundry... ) So while waiting for the machine to cycle through I made a stab at some rigging fittings... ok... one rigging fitting... Made my first attempt at one of the bowsprit bobstay collars. A most complicated bit of serving if ever there was. Two eyes served and spaced out far enough to accomodate a heart...or something to that effect. I met with partial success. No issues with the actual construction of the collar. Starting with the first eye, I served about 9mm of line. I tied it off and removed it from the serving machine. I formed the eye by passing the end though a couple strands, and secured it with a dab of glue. When that was dry I measured off what I thought was enough line to wrap around the heart, plus a couple millimeters, and made another 9mm run of serving. Made the second eye the same as the first, then when it was dry, served the intervening line. I then added the heart and seized it in place. I was feeling pleased with myself untill I held it up under the bowsprit.... uh oh.... not enough space between the eyes and the heart... hrm.... well... chalk one up as a learning experience.... I'll be heading back up north tomorrow, too hot to stay in the city....
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It's a shame Anton has not reappeared (username "perthshipyard"), he was building the HMS Diana and had taken the time to paint all the frieze work by hand. Very talented with a brush. You would have been able to pick up more than a few tips from him. Andy
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Good start... I guess I got lucky in that most of my hull construction was done before the great crash. I had a huge selection of logs to follow, so at the moment I only have vol. 4 to help me with the rigging. If I had to do it over again, knowing what I knw now, I'd have the whole set for guidance. In the mean time, keep asking questions and we'll help you as best we can. Andy
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Yeah.... I think on this one I have to agree with the crowd... Nice idea but I feel it would end up having your ship look like it was covered with a hedge rather than the effect you're going for. Andy
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I figure the standard plank length could be either 15 or 20 feet. As for the butt shift... Try on some scrap and see which one you like better. If you want a good resource, look into buying a copy of the Swan series, The Fully Framed Modelship, from Seawatch books. Highly recommended. A word of caution though.... You may find other parts of this kit that might require modification based on new information you discover in this series of books..... It might lead you down a strange mysterious path.... To an alternate universe.... Andy
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I like the treatment you gave the bulkheads, no need for paint there at all... I would, however, paint the pillars... One thing you may want to try is to start off with a yellow ochre base and then use various acrylic washes to get them to look like the same colour as the bulkhead. Either that or just leave them yellow ochre for contrast. Your choice. Andy
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Are the pillars etch, or wood? If they're wood, I'd say leave 'em as they are... Andy
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If I was to do it again, I think I would plank the deck after gluing in place. I found that as I planked, the false deck took a concave curve. When first fit, this resulted in a ridge running down the centreline. It too a lot of clamping to knock that down, and in some hidden places, I've got a small gap where things didn't close up quite right. The only expediency that I could see from planking first then installing, you can plank right over any openings, turn the thing over and cut them out from underneath. Andy
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Actually... If you don't mind me bringing up the copper plate subject one more time... A small suggestion... For those of us who are half cracked enough to add plates to the leading edge of the stem, or the like, would it be possible to supply a small quantity of plates that are symmetrical, as opposed to the directional left/right plates on offer? Andy
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I'm with Mark, here, on that one! Great job on that little nutshell of a model.... One question though.... How many more of them do you have to do? Andy
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And with that.... Darwin rolled over in his grave.......
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Starting to turn into a right proper rat's nest... I hear Augie's spiders have been freed up... May want to import a few... Rumour has it they make the work go faster somehow... Andy
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I bit of blind bias, going by what I've seen around here, I find the Amati/Victory Models plates very well done. Doing the "nails" like they have, avoids the pimply appearance that the CC plates have. Andy
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Flickering lights
realworkingsailor replied to AntonyUK's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Bruce, I'm with you on the model railroad angle.... Although I'd go a step further and put in a DCC function only decoder. These are specially for lighting effects in rolling stock. The bottom line, you could have multiple LEDs flickering at different rates (steam loco "fire-box" flicker option). With careful wiring you can have also multiple ships operating off the same base station. I'd only choose to go this way because I'm no ESP (electrical smarty pants).... Andy -
Great looking lighting, and excellent work on the stern. Good to know you also participate in that great tradition of going north to feed mosquitos. Where abouts do you call paradise? We're at the western edge of the Kawarthas, just off of hwy 35. Andy
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I think anyone building this kit would have to follow Mike Mott's lead, and build a workshop large enough around the ship..... Andy
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To echo everyone else, very nicely done. I take it you are leaving all your guns brass, and not painted or blackened? Andy
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Well... I guess with all that I eat my words... Regardless, the carronades look great. Andy
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Agreed... The rest should be a piece of cake, the worst is over... Hopefully you land a big one.....(not a swamp donkey )
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Very interesting... Did not know the company still exists. Based on your letter I'm suddenly thinking manganese-bronze as the metal... It has that silvery grey colour seen in your photo. Used nowadays for ship's propellors.... Although I don't know when it was first produced... Andy
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Sorry to say (and this is only my opinion, not necessarily fact), but to me that jack screw looks more like raw steel, than brass or bronze. In any case, regular oiling and working would have kept the metal from corroding. I'm still interested in what you find out, though. There's also a chance that in the name of preservation, some things may have been replaced. Andy
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Yup, I still have my other boat to enjoy Looking at Mike Mott's thread, I'm not the only one taking time away for 1:1 (or 1:2 or whatever) projects.. Aldo, thank you very much. Have you been able to manage any hobby time lately? Andy
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Complain.... No... Just trying to justify my lack of build progress.... As for you-know-who and his picture fetish.... He's just going to have to be patient.... Andy
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I think in that context, it may refer to the metal being unpainted and kept free from rust, rather than being brass. Mixed metals in a salt water environment results in one corroding at a rapid rate. Andy
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Well... What can I say... The weather is not conducive to ship modelling... Or doing much else beyond lounging in the lake... At the same time there has been an utter paucity of wind... So my sail boat remains tied up to the dock.... But it's not all fun and waiting games.. Tore down the old "boat house" now we have to clean up the mess and build a new one.... A little sturdier than the rotten old log lean-to we pulled down today. Andy
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