mikegr
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Everything posted by mikegr
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Italian shipbuilders where always paid attention to design and luxury. Even at warships and merchant ships. Not to mention their luxury passenger liners and yachts where they can fit a 3 bedroom house In a 10 meter hull. The food also is of high standard. Comparing to Japanese and other Asian built vessels, which are modern with high automatization standards but with less comforts and deticated space for crew.
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the greater the scale the greater the need for soldering as more metal parts involved. For R/C models is a one way.
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Roma guns were impressive because of the complex shape of the main turrets and the long barrels of the guns. They were designed to hit enemy at long range before he reacts. An object never accomplished cause of the radar absense and high dispersion of shells caused by barrels put closely together, a fact very noticeable on cruisers like Zara class etc. Some more close pics of armament and deck https://www.argunners.com/seldom-exterior-images-of-italys-wwii-battleship-roma/amp/
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Tom modelworks has a 1/700 set Dornier - Fritz bombs https://www.tomsmodelworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=579
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And USS Savannah as well which miraculously survived https://www.history.navy.mil/browse-by-topic/wars-conflicts-and-operations/world-war-ii/1943/salerno-landings/savannah-salerno.html
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Motor Yacht FONERS was Spanish built but Italian designed by Tommaso Spadolini. People used to comment it as a Sea Rolls Royce cause of the 3 RR engines. Spandolini though, considred his design more close to Ferraris as despite being 40+ meters long it could reach 70 kts. It was the fastest yacht in the world when built in 2000 and remains so until today.
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
I am building the cargo holds. I use styrene and bit of balsa wood.
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Ι made the sea bed and base. The raised frame is a resin guard preventing it from overspilling during process. Its made of balsa so if can't be removed at the final stage, can be easily trimmed down.
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One of the most beloved battleships of all time. Too bad that beauty doesn't come along with performance always. But this does not prevent us to be romantic. Some pics of the interior
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Νext project. I will put them in the same base as these are small enough
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Not sure how you want to do it but making a hull deeping in resin without previous experience working with it , its a really tricky business.
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I Would probably have to build several projects before become an expert but thanks for mentioning my name as a helpful hand to other members
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thanks. I am also quite pleased . And it was easy too as it can be done in a single day without waiting layers to dry and spending hours of sculpting waves etc
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So time for the sea bed. Took a piece of wood, painted it accordingly and covered with a thin layer of express curing resin, just to get a shiny and sticky surface Then I added the snow packs. I simply scrapped off some old paint, crushed with hummer and added to the resin. Then I used airbrush to paint the white fog over water. Finally to make ice bits I came up with the idea of using white spray with "snow effect" cap on it. Unfortunately after almost resin cured some "ice pieces" were curled cause of the thermal effect. I tried to correct it but had limited success, a lesson learned for the next time. The cutting board set on background maybe help you spot Kiso with the stealth ice camouflage.😁
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I tested my Anycubic Mono 4K today. In short its a budget version of the standard mono with more plastic and no fan but a 4K resolution. I only printed the sample file following the set up instructions. There was no smell at all with box on top. I have put the printer close to balcony , while aluminum window protecting it from the sun
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
I was eager to post this weekend so spend most of the time working. Upper deck was restarted except from the front part which was cut from the old part and attached to the new one. Again the deck proved too long. That means there is an obvious error on plans. So I cut the piece in half, removed about a 1,5 cm long section and joined the remaining sections together. Seems I'm good on this task. Maybe I should try lengthen/shorten a hull in the future lol. After rebuilding the upper deck I have restarted the whole project by 90%. I need to make some improvement and fitting corrections but I wanted to shoot it today. It seems the model its getting in shape. More micro work will be involved in the future and the progress will be slower and painful. Thus I got a new friend.
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I finished rigging. I used mix of elastic line and melted sprue, for the shorter parts. Time for the seabase now
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I'm done with railings. Also did some contrast weathering. That means in the dark areas only light color weathering is applicable while in white areas I could use some black and rust color. Time for rigging now
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The reason I bought Italery is because of the Italery kit. Its a B-58 which means metallic color painting is a crucial job. But at the time only one code was available to buy. So I look alternatives too. One company I consider is Green Stuff World but I never tried their products https://taleofpainters.com/2019/04/review-green-stuff-world-metal-colors/
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Its good you found some quality metalic acrylics as many modelers avoid them. I have italery and Tamiya but haven't test them so far
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Camouflage extended. Boat work and ropes added. Metal anchor added
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thanks, i return the favor with my comment
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