Kevin-the-lubber
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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I zap these with my soldering blowtorch, but that said, I can’t remember the last hairy print I had. I used to be plagued by that but think the filament heater solved that problem. -
Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Thanks both, I just thought I'd ask on the off-chance that you would know off the top of your head, but I don't want to hijack your log!
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Glen McGuire reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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You've already gone way beyond my knowledge but google tells me 1/3 to 1/2 would be fine. This thing won't be turning heavy loads, probably about 1 kilo or thereabouts.
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That's really not bad at all for FDM printing, is it. I'd also chop off the funnels and do them separately - you can probably do that in the slicer. Ian, can I pick your brains a little about motors, as you seem to know a sight more than me about these. I'm making various simple machines for other arty projects and one of these is a roller machine, that is quite similar to a rock tumbler. I could just buy a rock tumbler but I like solving puzzles and making stuff, besides which I can make everything apart from the motor. I've used a small, cheap, 220V synchronous 5 rpm motor for proof of concept, it does the job but gets very hot after 30 mins continuous use. I need something that can run for hours, maybe even days. It also reverses direction at will, there must be some kind of internal counter that determines that this time it'll be clockwise, next time anti. Ideally I'd have control over that and even more ideally, I'd be able to control the speed via electronics rather than gears. Any suggestions, pointers?
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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Good thinking. I flit from model to model, hobby to hobby, project to project, as the mood takes me. Some will get finished, some won’t, life’s too short to spend doing things you neither need or want to do.
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Phil, did you change your mind about closing this log? As a follower, I received an email overnight like so (below) but it doesn't show up in the log? GrandpaPhil has posted a comment on a topic, HMS Victory by GrandpaPhil - Mantua - Scale 1:98 - Kit-Bash - Aborted Posted in HMS Victory by GrandpaPhil - Mantua - Scale 1:98 - Kit-Bash - Aborted I am closing out this build log. I learned a lot from working on this model, but I have no real desire to continue it. I have ... Go to this Post
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I think our views are fairly similar Phil. It's just another material and like all the others it has pro's and con's. I use whatever seems most suitable for the job at hand, be that wood, metal, resin, paper, card and the clear poly-something-or-other found on cake boxes which is great for window glass 😁. At least that's what I tell my wife when asking her to buy yet more chocolate eclairs. (Don't tell her but I actually use transparent resin coated with high gloss lacquer). Have you tried ABS-like resins? I prefer to stiffen them up a bit by mixing with a bit of tough or rigid resin but it does make parts pretty tolerant of being bent etc. I print window bars at 0.25mm - 0.3mm without issue but below that would be pushing the boat out a bit too far, in most cases. Anyway, that is a gorgeous little boat and an impressive bit of model-making to do it this small.
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You’ve made a lovely job of this Phil, especially at this scale. Ply at 0.8mm is seriously thin stuff! It won’t surprise anyone that I have a different view about 3D development and printing. It opens up a new model making avenue in much the same way as injection moulding and die casting made model building accessible to gazillions of school kids. But each to their own of course. I’d just add that resin printing has come a long way. Parts can be much more robust than you might think and I have no end of objects sat unpainted and in full sun without the slightest signs of deterioration. I suspect the things I make will long outlast me!
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Have you thought of making it from card, possibly stiffening this up with diluted wood glue to reduce feathering? Just thinking that it’s much easier to cut card with a scalpel than plastic. (It doesn’t really help but this would probably come out well as a resin print). ps. Not just any old card - I mean the good quality, smooth surface stuff from an art supplies shop.
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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I stuck with it all the way until I just couldn't do what I wanted any more. Every so often I have reason to go back into my TinkerCAD account, usually to retrieve something I made for gardening or DIY, and I'm surprised at just how much you can do with it.
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Are you still using TinkerCAD? In F360 (and, I imagine most of CAD packages) you’d quickly loft this. It looks like you’ve already become very adept at 3D Ian. The scraps photo made me smile. I bet we all have a big box like that somewhere in the workshop!
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
RRS Discovery 1901 by gak1965 - 1:72 - First Scratch Build
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This is an amazing build Michael, I will need to read the whole log as at first I thought this was a scratch build, wood POF at something like 1:78! Your Victory is beautiful too, and as for the Vasa - gosh, you really do rise to the challenge, don't you!
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It still looks great from here. As others have said, maybe inspiration will come with the passage of a bit of time, but in any case maybe you could look at it as a 99% success, which really isn't bad score, is it. There are some exquisite models on this site but I think this kit is on another level in terms of complexity and detail.
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3D printing material question
Kevin-the-lubber replied to CPDDET's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Yes, this resin can be machined, but do be careful, resin has a relatively low breaking threshold. If I was you I would ask them to give me some scrap pieces if possible, to practice on, or else get an extra print done. That said, you might be surprised at just how thin parts can be printed. I regularly print objects with walls that are only 0.2mm thick, including tubes. However the risk of print failure is higher on these parts, which increases costs, so commercial printers may be reluctant to take that risk. -
3D printing material question
Kevin-the-lubber replied to CPDDET's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Go for the elegoo abs-like grey. This will have a bit of flex whereas the elegoo standard will be more rigid and prone to breaking. Grey is a very good colour for seeing the detail quality.
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