Kevin-the-lubber
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Pretty amazing, well done. -
Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
74 Gun | Ship of the Line - 3rd Rate | Blender
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Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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I’m afraid I can’t offer much advice on this Bill. Funnily enough, the sequencing was giving me quite a headache on the Cutty Sark, and I still have to resolve this and finish her off. My gut feeling, applicable to both of us, is that you should go with a plan where breakages are least likely and/or least heart-sinking. I parked the CS partly because my heart did indeed sink when I broke a part for the second time which meant I would have to make a whole new set of that mast and yards. I think breakages when rigging are almost inevitable, when you consider there are so many small parts and lines all over the place. Especially when most of us probably now wear specs so don’t necessarily have everything in the field in focus. In answer to your comment about my SR, don’t hold your breath! Since ‘retiring’ in August my life has exploded into a festival of arty things I’ve always wanted to do, so my ‘making’ time is increasingly taken up with experimenting and learning different media - e.g. I spent much of yesterday learning how to soften and flatten wood veneers, as I want to have a go at basic marquetry, and next week I’ll be trying to apply and resin coat dried, beautiful autumnal-red and gold leaves onto a 3D printed vase. I’m also polishing up previously made objects to go on eBay as it’s nice to have a little trickle of beer money (or cider money in my case). And then I’m making a concentrated effort to progress on the Victory. I’ve almost completed a lovely set of deadeyes and blocks, even if I do say so myself, as per McKay but will be moving back to the hull shortly. But the SR is always on my mind and I’d like to start on this next year.
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Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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That’s quite an achievement Kurtis, it looks highly detailed and convincing. Is there a way to let people see it in 3D? You know, rotate, zoom, all that kind of thing.
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That’s a clever way of dealing with the cap squares. It must have taken huge patience to get them all so regular and the results look very convincing. I also prefer it to the ‘all red’ effect. When I come to do my SR cannons, even though it is probably not historically correct I will most likely leave the trucks with a weathered wood colour. The rims at least must surely have become a dirty grey in no time, just through use.
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Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic:
Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
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Ahhh, you take me back a few years, to the utter frustration phase of printing 😄. Before you know it, it’ll all be second nature.
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
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Mexspur reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Victory by Kevin-the-lubber - Heller - 1:100 - PLASTIC - with 3D printed additions
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Thank you! I continue to work on the Victory when I get time but, alas, I always seem to have many more immediate priorities.
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Yes, all iron as far as I know. I meant when I get to the SR!
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Looks about right to me too. When I was working up the resin printed Victory cannons a while back, I did a weathering trial on a few, using Vallejo Model Air cockpit green (71.331) diluted even further with a bit of water. It came out okay, but no better than that. With the paint being so watery, it was very difficult to get it 'just so'; it would run and sit in the corners but run off the surfaces, and when I look at those test pieces now, I can see that the results varied from cannon to cannon. Yours looks much better and, when I come to it, I'll try that citadel paint.
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
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Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
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Just to add to Ian’s wise words, I would fill and sand the gaps where the flats meet and also blend in the hex at the ends, so that it all looks like one piece of timber. If you look back at your Victory you’ll see that hex centre on the lower yards, and I think the distance across the hexagon is only very slightly larger than the diameter of the yard where it meets the hex.
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When you get your machine feel free to message for tips etc. I'm no expert but I have learned a few things through trial and error! ps. Just remembered an important thing worth mentioning before you buy. These budget printers are great for printing common materials like PLA and PETG. You will struggle to print ABS and exotic materials which require higher hot end or bed temps, or high ambient temps and so on. So while you’ll see lots of advertorial around different filaments, it’s as well to be aware that most of these will be outside the scope of your machine, regardless what the blurb implies.
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I hadn't heard of Mingda before, but when I googled earlier, their background seemed to be high end industrial printers. I can't find that page now, but no matter, for the price, the X2 seems to be a great buy. Self-levelling, quiet steppers, direct extrusion, these are great features. The max temp for the hot end and build plate are a little higher than my creality ender 3, this is good. I have no experience of a steel build plate, I only use glass, so it may or may not be good and, even if it isn't, a glass plate + 3DLac is cheap. A quick read of reviews suggests the main complaint is that printing is slow. I can't see from the spec what this translates as, nor for that matter have I seen or used any of the supposedly fast printers on the market, but would add this: print speed is largely determined by the print medium. There is an ideal print temperature range and the right speed is whatever allows fusion within that temp' range. In other words, I'm ever so slightly sceptical about 'fast' printers, but I could be wrong to be so. For what it's worth, if I decide to buy a bigger FDM next year, I'll be taking a close look at Mingda. Bambu labs are well known here, posh printers. If the Creality (and Mingda) are the Toyota family saloon of FDM printers, the Bambu's are the Mercedes. I don't know if the extra cost is worth it but I'm sure owners would say it is. My tip is to get a filament dryer box from the outset. They cost about £40 but will save you hours of frustration. I reckon 90% of FDM print issues and failures are down to moisture in the filament and there is no substitute for temperature controlled drying. When I started, I tried everything under the sun to cure all my printing ills, largely to no effect, but they went away overnight once I started using a dryer. In my case it's the original Sunlu, but they are all much of a muchness.
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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If you mean those ubiquitous dark grey ‘wet & dry’ sanding sheets, which I believe are coated with silicone carbide, you can still get these just about everywhere relevant in the uk. But as we’re on the subject, can I make an additional recommendation, that being sanding mesh. If you are familiar with it, it’s really good on wood as it doesn’t clog and stays ‘sharp’ for much longer than normal sanding paper.
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Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Victory by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC
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Method 2 is much better, isn't it. One of the many reasons I parked the CS was that my knots were plain ugly and you've saved me some hours of research for when I try rigging again.
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