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Kevin-the-lubber

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Leafy Sussex, UK
  • Interests
    Gardening, heroic fantasy, ancient history, astronomy, mountaineering (alas no longer), MotoGP

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  1. Good thinking. I flit from model to model, hobby to hobby, project to project, as the mood takes me. Some will get finished, some won’t, life’s too short to spend doing things you neither need or want to do.
  2. Phil, did you change your mind about closing this log? As a follower, I received an email overnight like so (below) but it doesn't show up in the log? GrandpaPhil has posted a comment on a topic, HMS Victory by GrandpaPhil - Mantua - Scale 1:98 - Kit-Bash - Aborted Posted in HMS Victory by GrandpaPhil - Mantua - Scale 1:98 - Kit-Bash - Aborted I am closing out this build log. I learned a lot from working on this model, but I have no real desire to continue it. I have ... Go to this Post
  3. I think our views are fairly similar Phil. It's just another material and like all the others it has pro's and con's. I use whatever seems most suitable for the job at hand, be that wood, metal, resin, paper, card and the clear poly-something-or-other found on cake boxes which is great for window glass 😁. At least that's what I tell my wife when asking her to buy yet more chocolate eclairs. (Don't tell her but I actually use transparent resin coated with high gloss lacquer). Have you tried ABS-like resins? I prefer to stiffen them up a bit by mixing with a bit of tough or rigid resin but it does make parts pretty tolerant of being bent etc. I print window bars at 0.25mm - 0.3mm without issue but below that would be pushing the boat out a bit too far, in most cases. Anyway, that is a gorgeous little boat and an impressive bit of model-making to do it this small.
  4. You’ve made a lovely job of this Phil, especially at this scale. Ply at 0.8mm is seriously thin stuff! It won’t surprise anyone that I have a different view about 3D development and printing. It opens up a new model making avenue in much the same way as injection moulding and die casting made model building accessible to gazillions of school kids. But each to their own of course. I’d just add that resin printing has come a long way. Parts can be much more robust than you might think and I have no end of objects sat unpainted and in full sun without the slightest signs of deterioration. I suspect the things I make will long outlast me!
  5. Have you thought of making it from card, possibly stiffening this up with diluted wood glue to reduce feathering? Just thinking that it’s much easier to cut card with a scalpel than plastic. (It doesn’t really help but this would probably come out well as a resin print). ps. Not just any old card - I mean the good quality, smooth surface stuff from an art supplies shop.
  6. I stuck with it all the way until I just couldn't do what I wanted any more. Every so often I have reason to go back into my TinkerCAD account, usually to retrieve something I made for gardening or DIY, and I'm surprised at just how much you can do with it.
  7. Are you still using TinkerCAD? In F360 (and, I imagine most of CAD packages) you’d quickly loft this. It looks like you’ve already become very adept at 3D Ian. The scraps photo made me smile. I bet we all have a big box like that somewhere in the workshop!
  8. This is an amazing build Michael, I will need to read the whole log as at first I thought this was a scratch build, wood POF at something like 1:78! Your Victory is beautiful too, and as for the Vasa - gosh, you really do rise to the challenge, don't you!
  9. It still looks great from here. As others have said, maybe inspiration will come with the passage of a bit of time, but in any case maybe you could look at it as a 99% success, which really isn't bad score, is it. There are some exquisite models on this site but I think this kit is on another level in terms of complexity and detail.
  10. Yes, this resin can be machined, but do be careful, resin has a relatively low breaking threshold. If I was you I would ask them to give me some scrap pieces if possible, to practice on, or else get an extra print done. That said, you might be surprised at just how thin parts can be printed. I regularly print objects with walls that are only 0.2mm thick, including tubes. However the risk of print failure is higher on these parts, which increases costs, so commercial printers may be reluctant to take that risk.
  11. Go for the elegoo abs-like grey. This will have a bit of flex whereas the elegoo standard will be more rigid and prone to breaking. Grey is a very good colour for seeing the detail quality.
  12. Dave, list the options or the company and I'll have a look. For best detail you'll want it printed in resin and, generally speaking, for non-functional model parts you are not going to need anything exotic and their default option will probably suffice.
  13. I don't think I'd say it's 'out-of-range' but it depends on what you prefer and how much work it would be to try to lighten it.
  14. For what it’s worth, as a ex-mountaineer and caver I would often coil rope around an arm and lay it down on the ground, where it would look just like Marc’s coils. I agree that some very stiff rope, especially when new, can want to do it’s own thing but even hemp or bark/grass rope softens fairly quickly. (On the climbing and caving side, most of us would have paid more for a rope that did behave rather than continually kinking. We used to have to regularly drag 50 metres of rope along the ground to get the kinks out and stop it twisting during coiling).
  15. While I haven't noticed any F360 workshops on here, there is a huge amount of free tuition on youtube and back in the day, my go-to was Kevin Kennedy. I can't help you with vectric or carveco but for what it's worth, I would start with free software and take it from there before spending $300+ on something I might not like.
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