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Kevin-the-lubber

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leafy Sussex, UK
  • Interests
    Gardening, heroic fantasy, ancient history, astronomy, mountaineering (alas no longer), MotoGP

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  1. This is an amazing build Michael, I will need to read the whole log as at first I thought this was a scratch build, wood POF at something like 1:78! Your Victory is beautiful too, and as for the Vasa - gosh, you really do rise to the challenge, don't you!
  2. It still looks great from here. As others have said, maybe inspiration will come with the passage of a bit of time, but in any case maybe you could look at it as a 99% success, which really isn't bad score, is it. There are some exquisite models on this site but I think this kit is on another level in terms of complexity and detail.
  3. Yes, this resin can be machined, but do be careful, resin has a relatively low breaking threshold. If I was you I would ask them to give me some scrap pieces if possible, to practice on, or else get an extra print done. That said, you might be surprised at just how thin parts can be printed. I regularly print objects with walls that are only 0.2mm thick, including tubes. However the risk of print failure is higher on these parts, which increases costs, so commercial printers may be reluctant to take that risk.
  4. Go for the elegoo abs-like grey. This will have a bit of flex whereas the elegoo standard will be more rigid and prone to breaking. Grey is a very good colour for seeing the detail quality.
  5. Dave, list the options or the company and I'll have a look. For best detail you'll want it printed in resin and, generally speaking, for non-functional model parts you are not going to need anything exotic and their default option will probably suffice.
  6. I don't think I'd say it's 'out-of-range' but it depends on what you prefer and how much work it would be to try to lighten it.
  7. For what it’s worth, as a ex-mountaineer and caver I would often coil rope around an arm and lay it down on the ground, where it would look just like Marc’s coils. I agree that some very stiff rope, especially when new, can want to do it’s own thing but even hemp or bark/grass rope softens fairly quickly. (On the climbing and caving side, most of us would have paid more for a rope that did behave rather than continually kinking. We used to have to regularly drag 50 metres of rope along the ground to get the kinks out and stop it twisting during coiling).
  8. While I haven't noticed any F360 workshops on here, there is a huge amount of free tuition on youtube and back in the day, my go-to was Kevin Kennedy. I can't help you with vectric or carveco but for what it's worth, I would start with free software and take it from there before spending $300+ on something I might not like.
  9. I thought I'd give 1.5mm a go again, as I'll probably want to try using these myself shortly. It's worth saying that a 1.5mm block is close to half the size of a 2mm, in terms of surface area, i.e. it's not just a tad smaller, it is a LOT smaller! As expected I had to ream out the through hole and still couldn't get 0.1mm thread through, so I used some 34g beading wire (0.2mm) as a proof-of-concept proxy. I fear thread of the same diameter might look a bit too large for the block and the thinnest possible might be the way to go. My takeaway conclusion is that 1.5 is bordering on insanely small, but still doable so long as you have a bottomless well of determination 🙂and I know, by putting it next to a victory 12lb-er, that it just looks more 'right' than the 2mm. Maybe the solution (for me at least) is a compromise, 1.7mm or 1.8mm.
  10. 1.5mm blocks… that is incredibly small, isn’t it, but if anyone can manage those it’ll be you Marc. It’s probably do-able using a resin printer but the real challenge is the through-hole, chances are that this will close up and need opening out by hand on each block. Plus the walls will almost certainly be wafer thin and fragile, although that’s less of an issue. What size thread is being used for the ropes? For that matter, is the block design for the SR significantly different to later ships like the Victory?
  11. I’m guessing you’ve done that before? Either way, you certainly got a great result. The parts look much better than if you’d masked the polished areas, maybe because the transition edge is smoother.
  12. Looks good! That EzeTissue is tough stuff, I’ve used it while experimenting and it doesn’t tear easily. My issue has been that I can’t get it to stretch or deform. When I’ve made a half-furled sail (albeit a not good enough example) using well dampened tissue, and spread the tissue flat again when I give up, it’s exactly the shape it was when I cut it out. I haven’t tried using dope, does it make the fabric pliable?
  13. Insane level of detail! MFH certainly give VFM. And I love the steering wheel, from here it looks quite like walnut.
  14. Yup, macro is an evil something, isn't it. The worst of it is that getting back into model-making led me to buy a new camera and 2 macro lenses, which shows up every last, tiny blemish. Vaseline all over the lens is the way to go 😄. I can't wait to see the engine in the bay, this one super-realistic model kit!
  15. I’m late to the party but have to say what an incredible model and build. You are being way too hard on yourself Rob (says one perfectionist to another) and you are clearly more than up to this challenge!
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