Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

Kevin-the-lubber

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,070

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Answers

1

See answers

3 Followers

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leafy Sussex, UK
  • Interests
    Gardening, heroic fantasy, ancient history, astronomy, mountaineering (alas no longer), MotoGP

Recent Profile Visitors

1,416 profile views
  1. Kevin-the-lubber started following Cutty Sark by David Chapman - Revell -1/96 - PLASTIC - beginner's build and Cutty Sark by William A - Revell - 1/96 - PLASTIC
  2.    Bill97 reacted to a post in a topic: Cutty Sark by Kevin-the-lubber - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC
  3.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  4.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  5.    FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  6.    FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  7.    shipmodel reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  8.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  9.    Ian_Grant reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  10. Kevin-the-lubber
    Ps. I don’t use sharpies or any other kind of normal permanent marker pen, for that very reason (I use them all the time for plant pot labels and you’re right, they fade to grey within a year). I use Pentel acrylic art pens, I can’t say whether they have the same issue, only that none of the ‘pen-painted’ parts I’ve been handled this morning, at least some of which were painted a year or more back, have lost their blackness. BTW, as I’m writing, I also bought a pack of spare ‘nibs’ for the pens, so I can trim one to a very fine point. They go feathery quite quickly but I just trim off the feathers. I’ve found black and gold pens are excellent. Other colours seem to be less opaque so I stick with paints for these.
  11.    HAIIAPHNK reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  12.    kirill4 reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  13. Kevin-the-lubber
    I think that's come out very well indeed Marc. Your opening line about the coated wire resonated, I think I found the same on my CS cathead levers, the blacking just rubbed off, and I resorted to using a black acrylic marker pen. I like that it adds more or less zero 'paint' thickness, but the downside is that it has a sheen to it, though this can be made matt with lacquer.
  14.    Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic: Cutty Sark by David Chapman - Revell -1/96 - PLASTIC - beginner's build
  15.    Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Winchelsea 1764 by glbarlow - 1:48
  16.    Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic: Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
  17. Kevin-the-lubber
    Glad you’ve got it figured. That’s quite a different way to how I’d do this in F360 and it would probably just confuse the issue by getting into that. Can I ask, what are you aiming for as an end product? A CNC-milled kit, or something like that?
  18. Kevin-the-lubber
    In what way are you stumped? I don’t use Rhino, only F360, but the principles are broadly the same.
  19. Kevin-the-lubber
    Just a brief note that I've parked the CS for now. The delicacy of some parts of the masts and yards was becoming a bit trying and I'll come back to it with fresh eyes at a later point.
  20. Kevin-the-lubber
    Despite semi-retiring recently, I still don't seem to make much progress on my models. However, I've completed the remaining 1:100 guns, being faithful to McKay. I changed the design of the carriage to get cleaner lines for cotter pins that go through the axles, I think that'll do now. The carronades were a nice little project and that really is a M0.6 threaded adjustment screw 🤪.
  21.    Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  22. Kevin-the-lubber
    Ouch, hope you have a really great outcome without too much pain along the way.
  23. Kevin-the-lubber
    This one can probably be filed under “teachings about the sucking of eggs”, but as a one-time metalworker can I add a little bit of info. The wire you’re using looks like cold-drawn brass stock, meaning it’s pulled through a former to get its diameter. This causes the grain crystals to get elongated (oh look at me, showing off that I paid attention at college!) which makes it springy and harder to shape. If you heat it to about “ouch, that hurt”, and let it cool it’ll be annealed and hold its form, but my memory is that brass work hardens very easily, so keep that in mind. Or you can fish out the little bundle of mild steel 0.5mm gunport lid wires in the Heller victory kit (so I assume also in the SR), which seemed to be already annealed. Either that or the quality was so poor that it worked in our favour.
  24. Kevin-the-lubber
    Apologies if I'm misunderstanding but isn't that table the wrong way round? I don't think the sail material would get thicker as the scale gets smaller! I don't know what the sailcloth thickness would be at 1:1 but if I assume roughly 1mm, then: Scale mm inch 1:1 1.000 0.0394 1:24 0.042 0.0016 1:48 0.021 0.0008 1:64 0.016 0.0006 1:72 0.014 0.0005 1:96 0.010 0.0004 1:200 0.005 0.0002 1:350 0.003 0.0001 Tissue is about 0.05mm so true to scale at 1:24, though it seems to give quite a credible representation at other scales.
  25. Kevin-the-lubber
    I'd say listen to your gut. This is rich coming from me, but there it is. If I eventually decide to put sails on mine I will copy Marco's method (Bruma) as his sails are far and away the best that I've seen. But if you go down that road, take a look at the timeline on his log between starting to make the sails and finishing. My personal view is that cloth is no more realistic than the plastic. Even the thinnest fabric is too thick. But you may well get a good result by doing what your wife suggests but using EZE Tissue (you'll find it on ebay). However, I sense that you want to complete this kit and then see where you go next, and the quickest route is the plastic. The funny thing is that I don't think I've seen them on a single build here, so while we all think they'll look terrible, who knows, maybe they wouldn't look that bad.
  26. Kevin-the-lubber
    That's very appealing but a fair bit more expensive. I guess you get what you pay for. However I fear it'll take something to persuade the admiral to sail again any time soon, more my thing that hers.
  27.    Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic: Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
  28. Kevin-the-lubber
    We’ve done a three cruises in the last few years, personally I think there’s a fine line between it being a glorified passenger ferry and a floating hotel. The last one (Norwegian fjords) was very much towards the ferry end of the spectrum and I doubt we’ll do another any time soon. Here in the UK there’s a much more affordable way of living onboard and seeing new places - canal boats! You’re making great progress David, I’d again say just plough ahead and use this as a fun starter. For the future, I can 100% confirm that bigger is better. I finished making some carronades yesterday, printed them and thought how fantastic they’ll look on my 1/100 victory, until I realised I’d forgotten to scale down from 1/48. But who has space for a 6 foot model! I think the sweet spot is about 3 feet long and the largest scale possible against that final length.
  29.    Kevin-the-lubber reacted to a post in a topic: Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
  30. Kevin-the-lubber
    I've had a look at the file, nothing wrong with what you've done there. Though as often seemed to be the case with my own TinkerCad objects, the software says the components are not manifold (there are holes/gaps in the mesh, but the slicer is probably fixing these on the fly). A multi-part will print fine in resin but I think you'd struggle with the library printer. The frames would be about 0.5mm thick but if the finger cross section was like the sketch i.e. create a mortice and tenon, there would be enough heft in the frame for it to not be that delicate. It's ages since I used TinkerCad and I can't remember how much scope there is for dimension-driven design.
  31. Kevin-the-lubber
    I bet most of us won’t see 60 again. David, great job so far and, at the risk of seeming contrarian, I’d say keep plowing ahead without getting distracted by detail or precision. There lies an enormous rabbit hole and once you start trying to be true to the ship or even true to scale, it’s very easy to become bogged down. I’d also point you at a build log of the Heller HMS Victory by Bill, and also his Soliel Royale (just search the forum), not because they will help with the CS, but because they demonstrate just how good a result you can get if you just crack on and keep the aftermarket’s and modifications to a minimum.
  32. Kevin-the-lubber
    Tuppence from me: yes, print the fingers separately and, while you’re at it, think about splitting the fingers into two parts, the outer frame and inner insert. It’s not much work, design-wise, and you’ll get lovely sharp paint lines.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...