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Kevin-the-lubber

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    Male
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    Leafy Sussex, UK
  • Interests
    Gardening, heroic fantasy, ancient history, astronomy, mountaineering (alas no longer), MotoGP

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  1. I think all methods are as valid as each other. Although it was before my time I expect some traditional model-makers scoffed at all those injection-moulded abominations when they first hit the shelves. Though I'd still love to have the patience, hand skills and eye for carving that you have Marc.
  2. Keep in mind that you both make far more progress than me! Even now I have somewhat mixed feelings about it all, but I suppose I'm in too deep now.
  3. I love the herringbone, Bill. That must have taken some careful cutting. The lighting looks amazing, though like almost all things electrical the detail is a mystery to me.
  4. I zap these with my soldering blowtorch, but that said, I can’t remember the last hairy print I had. I used to be plagued by that but think the filament heater solved that problem.
  5. Thanks both, I just thought I'd ask on the off-chance that you would know off the top of your head, but I don't want to hijack your log!
  6. You've already gone way beyond my knowledge but google tells me 1/3 to 1/2 would be fine. This thing won't be turning heavy loads, probably about 1 kilo or thereabouts.
  7. That's really not bad at all for FDM printing, is it. I'd also chop off the funnels and do them separately - you can probably do that in the slicer. Ian, can I pick your brains a little about motors, as you seem to know a sight more than me about these. I'm making various simple machines for other arty projects and one of these is a roller machine, that is quite similar to a rock tumbler. I could just buy a rock tumbler but I like solving puzzles and making stuff, besides which I can make everything apart from the motor. I've used a small, cheap, 220V synchronous 5 rpm motor for proof of concept, it does the job but gets very hot after 30 mins continuous use. I need something that can run for hours, maybe even days. It also reverses direction at will, there must be some kind of internal counter that determines that this time it'll be clockwise, next time anti. Ideally I'd have control over that and even more ideally, I'd be able to control the speed via electronics rather than gears. Any suggestions, pointers?
  8. Good thinking. I flit from model to model, hobby to hobby, project to project, as the mood takes me. Some will get finished, some won’t, life’s too short to spend doing things you neither need or want to do.
  9. Phil, did you change your mind about closing this log? As a follower, I received an email overnight like so (below) but it doesn't show up in the log? GrandpaPhil has posted a comment on a topic, HMS Victory by GrandpaPhil - Mantua - Scale 1:98 - Kit-Bash - Aborted Posted in HMS Victory by GrandpaPhil - Mantua - Scale 1:98 - Kit-Bash - Aborted I am closing out this build log. I learned a lot from working on this model, but I have no real desire to continue it. I have ... Go to this Post
  10. I think our views are fairly similar Phil. It's just another material and like all the others it has pro's and con's. I use whatever seems most suitable for the job at hand, be that wood, metal, resin, paper, card and the clear poly-something-or-other found on cake boxes which is great for window glass 😁. At least that's what I tell my wife when asking her to buy yet more chocolate eclairs. (Don't tell her but I actually use transparent resin coated with high gloss lacquer). Have you tried ABS-like resins? I prefer to stiffen them up a bit by mixing with a bit of tough or rigid resin but it does make parts pretty tolerant of being bent etc. I print window bars at 0.25mm - 0.3mm without issue but below that would be pushing the boat out a bit too far, in most cases. Anyway, that is a gorgeous little boat and an impressive bit of model-making to do it this small.
  11. You’ve made a lovely job of this Phil, especially at this scale. Ply at 0.8mm is seriously thin stuff! It won’t surprise anyone that I have a different view about 3D development and printing. It opens up a new model making avenue in much the same way as injection moulding and die casting made model building accessible to gazillions of school kids. But each to their own of course. I’d just add that resin printing has come a long way. Parts can be much more robust than you might think and I have no end of objects sat unpainted and in full sun without the slightest signs of deterioration. I suspect the things I make will long outlast me!
  12. Have you thought of making it from card, possibly stiffening this up with diluted wood glue to reduce feathering? Just thinking that it’s much easier to cut card with a scalpel than plastic. (It doesn’t really help but this would probably come out well as a resin print). ps. Not just any old card - I mean the good quality, smooth surface stuff from an art supplies shop.
  13. I stuck with it all the way until I just couldn't do what I wanted any more. Every so often I have reason to go back into my TinkerCAD account, usually to retrieve something I made for gardening or DIY, and I'm surprised at just how much you can do with it.
  14. Are you still using TinkerCAD? In F360 (and, I imagine most of CAD packages) you’d quickly loft this. It looks like you’ve already become very adept at 3D Ian. The scraps photo made me smile. I bet we all have a big box like that somewhere in the workshop!
  15. This is an amazing build Michael, I will need to read the whole log as at first I thought this was a scratch build, wood POF at something like 1:78! Your Victory is beautiful too, and as for the Vasa - gosh, you really do rise to the challenge, don't you!
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