Kevin-the-lubber
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Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber
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Thank you! I continue to work on the Victory when I get time but, alas, I always seem to have many more immediate priorities. -
Yes, all iron as far as I know. I meant when I get to the SR!
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Looks about right to me too. When I was working up the resin printed Victory cannons a while back, I did a weathering trial on a few, using Vallejo Model Air cockpit green (71.331) diluted even further with a bit of water. It came out okay, but no better than that. With the paint being so watery, it was very difficult to get it 'just so'; it would run and sit in the corners but run off the surfaces, and when I look at those test pieces now, I can see that the results varied from cannon to cannon. Yours looks much better and, when I come to it, I'll try that citadel paint.
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Just to add to Ian’s wise words, I would fill and sand the gaps where the flats meet and also blend in the hex at the ends, so that it all looks like one piece of timber. If you look back at your Victory you’ll see that hex centre on the lower yards, and I think the distance across the hexagon is only very slightly larger than the diameter of the yard where it meets the hex.
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When you get your machine feel free to message for tips etc. I'm no expert but I have learned a few things through trial and error! ps. Just remembered an important thing worth mentioning before you buy. These budget printers are great for printing common materials like PLA and PETG. You will struggle to print ABS and exotic materials which require higher hot end or bed temps, or high ambient temps and so on. So while you’ll see lots of advertorial around different filaments, it’s as well to be aware that most of these will be outside the scope of your machine, regardless what the blurb implies.
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I hadn't heard of Mingda before, but when I googled earlier, their background seemed to be high end industrial printers. I can't find that page now, but no matter, for the price, the X2 seems to be a great buy. Self-levelling, quiet steppers, direct extrusion, these are great features. The max temp for the hot end and build plate are a little higher than my creality ender 3, this is good. I have no experience of a steel build plate, I only use glass, so it may or may not be good and, even if it isn't, a glass plate + 3DLac is cheap. A quick read of reviews suggests the main complaint is that printing is slow. I can't see from the spec what this translates as, nor for that matter have I seen or used any of the supposedly fast printers on the market, but would add this: print speed is largely determined by the print medium. There is an ideal print temperature range and the right speed is whatever allows fusion within that temp' range. In other words, I'm ever so slightly sceptical about 'fast' printers, but I could be wrong to be so. For what it's worth, if I decide to buy a bigger FDM next year, I'll be taking a close look at Mingda. Bambu labs are well known here, posh printers. If the Creality (and Mingda) are the Toyota family saloon of FDM printers, the Bambu's are the Mercedes. I don't know if the extra cost is worth it but I'm sure owners would say it is. My tip is to get a filament dryer box from the outset. They cost about £40 but will save you hours of frustration. I reckon 90% of FDM print issues and failures are down to moisture in the filament and there is no substitute for temperature controlled drying. When I started, I tried everything under the sun to cure all my printing ills, largely to no effect, but they went away overnight once I started using a dryer. In my case it's the original Sunlu, but they are all much of a muchness.
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If you mean those ubiquitous dark grey ‘wet & dry’ sanding sheets, which I believe are coated with silicone carbide, you can still get these just about everywhere relevant in the uk. But as we’re on the subject, can I make an additional recommendation, that being sanding mesh. If you are familiar with it, it’s really good on wood as it doesn’t clog and stays ‘sharp’ for much longer than normal sanding paper.
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Method 2 is much better, isn't it. One of the many reasons I parked the CS was that my knots were plain ugly and you've saved me some hours of research for when I try rigging again.
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David, I think you’re on to something here. I had fleetingly wondered about using the plastic sails as formers but parked my build, largely because I still don’t have a sails solution, before trying it. Anyway, I agree with Keith, they look very promising in the raw but need a bit of paint and weathering.
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Sorry about the lack of response Bill, a young chap just sent his little motorbike into a hedge in our road when I was about to look at your photo, and once it was clear he was okay I had the pleasure (really, I loved it!) of straightening out all the bent and broken bits on the bike. Took me back 40 years, to what back then seemed to be a weekly occurence. 🙂 Anyway, I was going to say tapered to go through the deck, but as Ian shows, that would have been wrong. I can't see how it's held in place on the real thing but imagine there must be a hefty lump of something pinning it down. That is one bluff prow, isn't it. That also takes me back but nearer 50 years, I remember that shape on the airfix kit now.
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In what sense, Bill? Taper-wise?
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But it’s not, really, is it Marc. I think all of us are as one in recognising you have a talent that many of us don’t, and while we may attempt the same, there’s no guarantee that spending more time will yield the same result. You are an artist, it’s as simple as that, and it is always - absolutely always - a pleasure to watch an artist at work. As mentioned elsewhere, watching yours and John Ott’s work on this model is like doing the very best arts degree going. People pay to learn this stuff! Anyway, enough of the praise 😀, down to business. That is such a well observed change, the remodelled figure now flows with the rest of the decor in that area and just looks right. I’d love to see a side-on view as well, when you have time and inclination.
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Hi Marc There are things I want to become better at or able to do per se, which I'm trying out at present on the Victory, that will have a bearing on the SR. The main one of these is creating a faithful digital replica of the kit hull, as I think that is key to making complex replacement parts, such as my Vic stern, fit well on a kit hull in a repeatable way. Currently I'm wrestling with a rather poor quality 3D scan of the Victory hull, but if I don't crack this in the next few days I may go back to an earlier idea, plotting points manually using a plotting jig and transcribing these into the software. I know I could just fudge the stern fit as a one-off and that'll be the fall-back; equally, I could make a new hull using line drawings, but from there I might as well go the whole hog of scratch building, which I don't really want to do. I think I'd rather just build the kit out of the box in that case, because it is, after all (like the Vic) a beautiful kit in it's own right. Anyway, I'll plug away for a while longer before resorting to the model-makers equivalent of a manchester screwdriver. I read John Ott's wonderful opening essay on the model being a replica of Tanneron and it registered that the height of the kit stern plate is exaggerated, as per artistic licence of the day (and the draught is all wrong). I think a proportionate stern plate would logically lead to a greater tumblehome angle and probably also require remodelled upper bulwarks, which don't look too hard to do.... and quarter galleries, which do look hard.... so by the time all is said and done, a new stern. Familiar territory, hence wanting to have my 'workflow' and methods clear well in advance. I need to go back through your log as a partner piece, as between you and John, you present a lot of food for thought around the stern.
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Wisborough Green eh.... luckily for you, beyond telescope distance 🙂. Haywards Heath here.
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It'd be great if the made the mesh freely available, I'd snap that up in a heartbeat. Ironically, I used to stay with friends near Dundee a lot up until 20 years back, but had no interest in ships or model-making back then.
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Nicely recovered Bill. Busy looking deck, isn't it.
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Ian, left field, pragmatist thought - add a little hidden motor and prop at the stern, just to overcome the limitations of scale? Probably not what you want to do, but to a very great extent I think you've already achieved a lot and shown what's possible (and less possible) with oar power alone.
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A brief note, that Heller have now made the new assembly instruction booklets for both the Victory and Soleil Royale available for free download. You can get them here; https://www.heller.fr/en/80897-hms-victory-1000808970 https://www.heller.fr/en/80899-soleil-royal-1000808990 I've managed to resist the first wave of temptation to start working on this model. It looks to me like this kit is especially suited to a bit of 3D replacement and printing; a flat stern plate, virtually flat upper bulwarks, coupled with a wealth of information and ideas in other people's logs.
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A brief note before I forget, that Heller have now made the new assembly instruction booklets for both the Victory and Soleil Royale available for free download. You can get them here; https://www.heller.fr/en/80897-hms-victory-1000808970 https://www.heller.fr/en/80899-soleil-royal-1000808990 Otherwise, I've almost finished re-creating all the blocks, hearts, deadeyes etc based on McKay for printing in resin. I know this has already been done by a few others but I found it an interesting exercise during which I learned a few things about block design, as well as the sheer variety used on the ship - about 100 different models, taking in the various designs and size variants. While I've modelled them all true to McKay, like others I will convert all of this into a smaller set of practical models, as some of the 'true' sizes are too small for use at 1:100. In any case it's been a useful way of getting my head back into the Victory, as I plan to focus on this again for a while.
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3d printing process
Kevin-the-lubber replied to henrythestaffy's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
Ron, that bowed edge is the same issue that I had when printing cabins for my Cutty sark. Similar objects I.e. straight edges. The issue occurs almost regardless of object size - it was even happening on 1} square hatch covers, which was quite frustrating. My solution was to tilt the object on two axes rather than just one, which works. (But for smaller things like hatches I actually just print them flat). Regarding supports, I usually put a few thick ones on the underside, supplemented by loads of very thin ones. The latter are just to mitigate the convexity you get with widely spaced supports. The main difference I notice between our approaches is that I usually make my shortest supports at least 15mm long, but longer still if they are thick. It’s wasteful, but here’s why I do it: when it comes to removal time, I first snip the supports where they attach to the raft. I then snip them as close as possible to the object. This means all the stress of snipping happens down at the raft end, and the extra support length allows the support to bow a bit, which it wants to do, since I’m basically forcing the side cutter blades into the material. When I’m strict with myself about this process, there is rarely any damage to the object. I find it especially important when I’m printing ultra-thin and delicate parts which are sometimes thinner than the actual supports themselves. I also almost always get rid of the cross supports, as they make cleanup more difficult and I don’t find they add anything. They are probably more useful with large war gaming miniatures. -
A treat indeed. Having read it all now I know I'll need to go through again and make notes of so many things. Off the top of my head the choices and application of paints and colouring is so knowledgeable. Very dark brown rather than black, decals over mouldings, I don't think either of these would have ever occurred to me, even though I've dipped a toe in the decals pond (without much success) earlier this year. While I thoroughly enjoy the extraordinarily deep discourse around the detail and history, this if of a considerably higher order than my level and I'll be content to simply steal ideas and learn a bit more.
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Illustrates the point perfectly - you are decisive and you make good, rational decisions. I do this all the time in the day job and on home maintenance and always feel content with that. But models… another story. I think the lanyards look untidy and a bit ‘not ship-shape’. Same with that rope sagging down.
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