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Veszett Roka

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Everything posted by Veszett Roka

  1. Absolutely my friend! Although the wheelhouse and the long focsle limit the possibilities somehow. In the below picture she had golf-ball satellite antenna, and an ecapsulated auxilary radar, the upper one is still Decca. The picture taken in 1984 when Calypso moored in Davenport during the Missisippi research.
  2. She had it, in the early 50's, with the old, round window wheelhouse. Note the different (shorter) side under the foredeck: Then i found a picture with a new radar, but yet missing the big egg antenna and the helipad (still picture from 'Undersea World Of Jacques Cousteau' from 1968) but with the new bridge and shortened stack::
  3. I think the radars on the mast are not correct. The upper one is a very early 50's (probably K-band), and the lower is probably from 80's. The model depicts Calypso in 80's era (see the satcom antenna cover, the big 'egg' behind the bridge), therefore i'd change the radars for more sleek nautical models like those on below pictures: Also i'd model the iconic circular storm-visor on the middle window of the bridge:
  4. Mine was a Vanguard too, white hull and grey deck with yellow stripes on back. She was a beauty, and like all women (and all raceboat), she wasn't a forgiving one.
  5. Comrade! From the height of the soling we called the 470-ers as slimy footed, because the algae on their wet feet I was on the wire in boat HUN-61 then moved to soling HUN-111, see my avatar pic. Just like you, i miss those days.
  6. - F.You, today is Sunday! We're striking! Superb work Daniel!
  7. To be honest, i never seen such complex paper model yet. I built only one in my childhood (Jylland, a Danish tug from the 1920's) but that ship was far simply compared to your model. Excellent workmanship.
  8. Beautiful model Bill, very well built! I saw many model in my career (i'm a member of a modeling club) but yours have a certain sign of careful and thorough work. And i agree with you, this is an excellent website.
  9. This is always reminds me a gossip in our modeling club. Some airplane modeler club came to friendly visit us, and shown a few of their model planes. All were first grade work, and we admire them. They told us that their usual scale is 1:72 or 1:48 because the detail. We laughed, and shown them our shipmodels in 1:350 scale. From that point the shipmodelers were considered as 'crazy gang'. And Mike, you're working in 1:700.
  10. For me, it's a decision point. If you intend to build she as current state, include the stabilisers and build the bridge with modern navigation instrumentation (i mean radar screens etc.) as shown on the pictures. If you'd like to omit the stabilisers, i think you should build the bridge as an older look too. Plus, in this case you have to omit the WD40-Duct tape combo from the machinery shop.
  11. If my vote counts, i'd go for full unpainted wooden hull. That mahogany is far too beauty to cover - for me.
  12. A bit more seriously: what are you planning below the waterline? Any antifouling, perhaps white or green like the original? Keep the hull unpainted? Also, some marking on the hull, like Plimsoll mark etc.?
  13. Keith, I feel a disturbance in the force. You covered the beautiful mahogany hull with 16 layer of warnish, which i found a happy move - i think the paint/warnish competition won by the wooden look. But, if the hull is depicted as wood, why are you need to depict the anodes as well? I know they are attached on the original Cangarda, but a bit odd on a wooden hull, aren't they?
  14. I would cut the base plate a bit shorter and oval form to match the desk shape. But anyways, the current stand is perfect - You're the builder Mark, and your pride and joy the most important factor.
  15. From beautiful to totally beautiful. Just 14 layers away. So stunning Capt.
  16. Will you add crew to the ship Bill? Then hang two rope and a crewmember with tiny paintbucket here. He is just repairing the ship, so any different color and wood spot is his fault, not yours
  17. Try clean vinegar. Here we have a mold cleaner, but it contains chloride and it fades away all paint in no time but removes the black spots also very fast - so if your sails are white you can try bleach. Also you can ask a paint shop, they have a clean fluid addition for wall paints (sorry, don't remember the name) which kills germs, fungus and black mold. This fluid contains ammonium, but i never tried it on fabric. Be careful, i think better to try those liquids on a spare fabric, or a hidden spot of the sail.
  18. Yes, i already noticed that too - the cover was aligned to be below the upper battery. I was brave enough to say this misalignment because knowing your seeking for perfection. So i don't know what would be the good solution
  19. Daniel, i'm afraid the covered inlet (? i dont know what is it) is mispositioned.
  20. Not us Keith, but the dispute in general, whether the modeler could use a 3D printer, or he/she must use his/her own skills and tools to model the subject. The PRO-3D folks (including you, Ian and me) says it is just another tool. The CON-3D guys says that 3D printing is just programming and anybody could produce a fine model just behind a monitor whilst he/she could be totally untalented, don't need to understand the ship in general. They thinks 3D printing is not a work.
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