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Everything posted by Veszett Roka
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This is always reminds me a gossip in our modeling club. Some airplane modeler club came to friendly visit us, and shown a few of their model planes. All were first grade work, and we admire them. They told us that their usual scale is 1:72 or 1:48 because the detail. We laughed, and shown them our shipmodels in 1:350 scale. From that point the shipmodelers were considered as 'crazy gang'. And Mike, you're working in 1:700.
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For me, it's a decision point. If you intend to build she as current state, include the stabilisers and build the bridge with modern navigation instrumentation (i mean radar screens etc.) as shown on the pictures. If you'd like to omit the stabilisers, i think you should build the bridge as an older look too. Plus, in this case you have to omit the WD40-Duct tape combo from the machinery shop.
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Keith, I feel a disturbance in the force. You covered the beautiful mahogany hull with 16 layer of warnish, which i found a happy move - i think the paint/warnish competition won by the wooden look. But, if the hull is depicted as wood, why are you need to depict the anodes as well? I know they are attached on the original Cangarda, but a bit odd on a wooden hull, aren't they?
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I would cut the base plate a bit shorter and oval form to match the desk shape. But anyways, the current stand is perfect - You're the builder Mark, and your pride and joy the most important factor.
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Cleaning mold from cloth sails
Veszett Roka replied to Seasick's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Try clean vinegar. Here we have a mold cleaner, but it contains chloride and it fades away all paint in no time but removes the black spots also very fast - so if your sails are white you can try bleach. Also you can ask a paint shop, they have a clean fluid addition for wall paints (sorry, don't remember the name) which kills germs, fungus and black mold. This fluid contains ammonium, but i never tried it on fabric. Be careful, i think better to try those liquids on a spare fabric, or a hidden spot of the sail. -
Yes, i already noticed that too - the cover was aligned to be below the upper battery. I was brave enough to say this misalignment because knowing your seeking for perfection. So i don't know what would be the good solution
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Not us Keith, but the dispute in general, whether the modeler could use a 3D printer, or he/she must use his/her own skills and tools to model the subject. The PRO-3D folks (including you, Ian and me) says it is just another tool. The CON-3D guys says that 3D printing is just programming and anybody could produce a fine model just behind a monitor whilst he/she could be totally untalented, don't need to understand the ship in general. They thinks 3D printing is not a work.
- 118 replies
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I think this dispute is as old as the 3D printing in modeling industry. I agree with Ian too - this is just a tool. It is helping you to get the same, or even better result. Someone building the pieces from Evergreen slices or rods, someone fabricating them from excess pieces of plastic. The only important thing is the final result on the ship. If we're talking about artistic sculptor talent and patience thats another topic i guess. Personally i find an accurate 3D model as attractive (artistic) as a sculpted one. Just different working hours invested into it.
- 118 replies
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I saw that fingerprint somewhere Dr. Watson. 🙃
- 58 replies
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- Revell
- Constitution
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It was great pleasure to follow this build. I hope more to come.
- 286 replies
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Well done Chris, lovely model! Im sure your craftmanship inspire some newbies to cardboard modelling.
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From the XXXL Chaconia to the XS dredger - with same precision. Extraordinary, Roel. ...and how i hated the same Dell Latitude laptop when i had one Now a newer model i have and it is even worse, i started loving the old one.
- 70 replies
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- Scheldt River
- Dredger
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Phil, here is a few pictures of a shipmodel from a russian page. This might help with the ropes. https://karopka.ru/community/user/23019/?MODEL=629020
- 128 replies
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- Card
- Pre-Dreadnought
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