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AnobiumPunctatum

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Everything posted by AnobiumPunctatum

  1. Wonderful pictures and descriptions. I need also a clnker build boat for my sloop. So there is a lot to learn.
  2. Congrats for a really beautyful model. And thank you very much for your build log. I -and I am sure a lot of other MSW users also- got a lot of information which is very helpful for my own projects. I hope that your will start another project in the near future.
  3. Congrats, Siggi. I love the coloring of your model. It's exactly what I like to do on my sloop. I hope you show us a lot of pictures of the finished model in her case.
  4. Grant, Ed, Tom, thank you very much.
  5. Druxey, found your build log this morning. I'll follow your work with great interest and I am sure that I can learn a lot from your log. Thanks for sharing
  6. Thank you very much for the Likes and the nice words.
  7. Continuing the assembly of the stem.. I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem. Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness. In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.
  8. Really wonderfull. The old river steamers have an own fascination
  9. Sorry, for the late reply, Jack. I add a picture from a reconstruction drawing of Werner Dammann. It shows a possible viking style figure head for the Gokstad ship. If you have a look at the original in the Oslo museum, you see that stem is also a little smaller than in your model. Werner Damman shows in his wonderful book about the ship also another solution that as far as I know is the most common interpretation
  10. Congrats for finishing this beautyful Swan Class Sloop. She's looking very nice
  11. Really nice progress and very clean work. The only thing I don't like are the very old styled sterns, which are part of the kit.
  12. Welcome to the Triton Shipyards and a lot of fun and success with the build.
  13. I think Chuck's idea to sell parts for a ahip model as he does with his cutter Cheerful is an excellent idea. You can buy the drawings and perhaps the bulkheads, choose the timber for the planking job and buy then the smaller parts if you like. I hope that other manufacturers will copy his idea (if he don't has the Copyright for this ) There are a lot of talent modelers who don't have an own workroom or the money to buy the machines. For these kits especially on Chucks way are the only possibility to take up the hobby.
  14. Erik, I'll follow your log with great interest. If I see you longboat, I am qiute sure that you'l build an excellent model. Chucks drawings compared with the originals from the NMM are outstanding
  15. Hendirk, it's allways nice to see the pictures of your build. Very good work.
  16. Thanks, Dirk and Martin. @Martin Yes. I also mad treenails from pear veneer also in the smaller scale. But it's a lot more difficult, because the treenails broke very fast.. They are around 0.7mm; the new ones are around 0.95mm. In this scale I have much less waste.
  17. Thanks a lot for the Likes and Your interest.
  18. The keel is laid down. The picture shows the current version compared with the old keel in 1/48. Due to the larger scale it is much easier to display small details such as the treenails to scale correctly. The next steps in the construction of the complete keel arrangement are the same as described in my old build log. I will only change some smaller details.
  19. Yes, that's correct. The length between the perpendiculars is 923.44 mm (approximate 3ft)
  20. The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log. For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm. On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.
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