AnobiumPunctatum
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Everything posted by AnobiumPunctatum
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I think a combination of both timbers must look great. Frames in pear or cherry and the planking in cedar
- 269 replies
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- Queen Anne Barge
- Syren Ship Model Company
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The second year of my build is almost over. Not much progress this year, but I hope that I can post a last update at New Year's Eve. It's time to say Thank You to all who followed my log, to all who wrote their own log I where I found so much hints and inspiration and to the crew of this wonderful forum for their great job..
- 102 replies
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Wow, that looks like a very interesting project. I will follow with interest.
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Thanks for sharing the videos of your build. They are a great help. I wish you and your family a Mery Christmas and a Happy New Year.
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I normaly use treenails. I put them in before installing the frames. I am not sure if brass or copper wire will work in the same way. But it's easy to test. Cut one futtock a little bit oversized. Put it some wire and treenails and sand them to the correct size. So you will see if your idea´and material work as exspected.
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Anguriel, looks really good. I think it is very helpful to let a little bit more timber on both sides of the frame. So you can sand the whole section in one step and egalize small differences without makeing the frames to small durig this step.
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Kevin, thanks that you brought these details with your small mistake back in my mind. I hope that my rising wood will help me to place the frames accuratly.
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Maury, fantastic. I like your log very much. Your model shows a small harbor vessel, where I don't have much knowledge. So it's very interesting to see, how your model grows.
- 525 replies
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- anchor hoy
- hoy
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Welcome on the Triton Shipyards. I wish you a lot of fun with your build
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Nice progress, Tony. I like the way ypou build the bitts
- 132 replies
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- triton cross-section
- cross-section
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Mike, very very nice progress. Your model is looking fantastic. Why don't you use simple oil color? I've made different tests as preparation for my build and happy with the results. It's important to use a good quality color (Schminke, Lucas ar two German brands for example). Than you can work with very thin layers of color
- 943 replies
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- hahn
- oliver cromwell
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It's a fantastic model. Thanks for sharing
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- greenwich hospital barge
- royal barge
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Really wonderful progress. But why want you paint your stove? I think, you will get a much better result if you burnish it.
- 504 replies
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- washington
- galley
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Welcome the Triton shipyard and a lot of fun with the build
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I don't want to hit the Like Button, because It made me very sad what I see. There was a huge amount of work in your frameing and it must be a pain for you to make this cut. I hope and cross all my fingers that you can restore your work.
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Chuck, it's always a pleasure to follow your logs.
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Greg, I don't have a CNC mill. I use a simple mill with a coordinate table. I work a lot with the PC during my job and so I thought also of using a CNC for model building - there are some interesting kits in the internet. But than I thought it will be much more satisfactory to build the model by hand. It's completely different to what I do in my job and so it is a big challenge which I like. I know that I will have imperfections, but this is what a model makes individual and interesting. Also the old time modelers and shipbuilders build their ships manual. So why not to do the same?
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Thanks very much for the likes and comments. You are right, Greg. I have to sand this later down. I don't find a way to do this with my small mill and chisels. There's much more to sand down. I'am not sure what is more complicated, the stem ore the stern deadwood. I think the stern, because there are a lot of different steps to do and you have to think about every step, before you start. I made me a small list of all single steps and hope I've nothing forgotten.
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Next step is the after deadwood. I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel. All components are put temporarily together Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled. After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling: As final step the template will be cut out: The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site Next step will be the port side.
- 102 replies
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