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AnobiumPunctatum

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Everything posted by AnobiumPunctatum

  1. Your frame is looking really good. The joints a very clean. Have you used a black pecil for showing them? I would only use a light brown pencil. If you don't understand the drawing, please ask. I am happy if I can help you. I hope the following information help you to understand the drawing a little bit better. The drawing is a part of the originial Disposition of Frames Drawing for HMS Triton. It shows the arrangement of the frames. The small numbers and letters at the bottom indentify the station lines. The midship frame is at station 0. It is a single frame with a thickness which is not common for ships of this period. Therefore the shipbuildes have given the dimensions of the different timbers. The next frame is a double frame. From the second futtock to the top you see a double line, because there is air between the frames. To connect the frames spacers (small timber blocks) are necessary. Under the gun ports are two single frames which have the regular dimensions. Allan Yedlinskys book is a fantastic reference for finding the correct dimensions. The next frame is a double frame, also with air ventilation. If you need further information, please let me know.
  2. Aguriel, if you build the frames original,why don't you use the original frames design? You can use the pattern of the Group Build for this, if you let a little bit timber outside of the lines. It would be very interesting to see the 3 thick frames at station 0.
  3. It does. Your clipper will be a possible project in the future if my sloop is finished. I like the lines of the hull and also the interesting rigging of this ship type. How long will be the fully rigged model in 1/72?
  4. Very nice. Which drawings are the source for your model?
  5. Thanks, I will draw the situation and show it. If I understand everything right I have to change the build sequence. I must install the transoms first; than I can install the keelson knee / sternson followed by the cant frames.
  6. Thanks Ed and druxey. I have to look, how to do this part. The deadwood and transoms will be much more complicated at my sloop than expected.
  7. During the work on the Deadwood, I found an interesting detail on the original drawing. David wrote in his book, that the knee will end under the lower filling transom. If I interpret the line right, it looks that the knee also sits in front of and under the other transoms. Is it possible, that this part looks similiar to the keelson or the stemson? Or show the drawing smaller parts of timber which are sitting only under the transoms? Perhaps someone can help me how to interpret the line correct.
  8. Simon, very nice build. If you cut the parts of the components for the stem, you have to look to the grain of the wood. It should be always in the longitudinal direction of the part and not perpendicular as seen on your stem. Take this for the future and don't changeit on your model, after coppering not much will be seen from this.
  9. It's looking really great. I am happy with yo that your resue of your build works so well.
  10. I think a combination of both timbers must look great. Frames in pear or cherry and the planking in cedar
  11. The second year of my build is almost over. Not much progress this year, but I hope that I can post a last update at New Year's Eve. It's time to say Thank You to all who followed my log, to all who wrote their own log I where I found so much hints and inspiration and to the crew of this wonderful forum for their great job..
  12. Wow, that looks like a very interesting project. I will follow with interest.
  13. Thanks for sharing the videos of your build. They are a great help. I wish you and your family a Mery Christmas and a Happy New Year.
  14. I normaly use treenails. I put them in before installing the frames. I am not sure if brass or copper wire will work in the same way. But it's easy to test. Cut one futtock a little bit oversized. Put it some wire and treenails and sand them to the correct size. So you will see if your idea´and material work as exspected.
  15. Anguriel, looks really good. I think it is very helpful to let a little bit more timber on both sides of the frame. So you can sand the whole section in one step and egalize small differences without makeing the frames to small durig this step.
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