AnobiumPunctatum

No. The frames are 3mm birch plywood with 5 layers and the filling is poplar plywood.

I will follow yur log with great interest. I am waiting on some replacement parts and the Cheerful timber set from Chuck to start with this beautyful little model. I like your idea to show the room, but if you don't make a cut out of the deck I think that you will not see much. The room is really dark.

I think your hull will looks like as an model which is build following the "Augsburger method". The guy which has introduced this in our German forum comes from this nice city nearby munich. I used it as I made my reconstruction of HM Sloop Fly, 1776 to control my design.

Really wonderful.

In English: James Lees: The masting and rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860 David Antscherl: Rigging a sixth rate sloop of 1767-1870, which is very detailed. I haven't checked if it is useful for rigging a third rate In German: Klaus Schrage Rundhölzer Tauwerk und Segel I recommend the this book, because it contains a lot of useful detail drawings. The last two are my favorites for rigging English ships

Thanks for the review. I know that you are building a french frigate. So the book is perfect. For English frigates you need another source.

Really really wonderful. There are so many details and technics, which I also can later use for my Triton project. I have one question. The historical model show that the upper part of the knee of the head was painted blue. Is it your personal choice to paint this black or is there another reason?

Thanks for your help. I glued the three parts together last night. Next is preparing the cut outs for the masts and glueing the stem parts together. You see that the bulkheads are done with another laser. The stemparts are a dream. If I remember how much work it is with my scroll saw.

@Chuck It's good to start the build with a question. 🙄 I work with the lasercut version of the false keel, which I've never used before. Today I put the false keel parts together (not glued now). If I look at the lower edge of the components I can see a clear twist. The cutting edge of the laser is not perpendicular to the component. In the instructions you wrote not to grind the laser char. I would have ground the 2/10 - 3/10mm now to get a right-angled edge to be able to glue the keel right-angled. Have I misunderstood you? I tried to make a photo, but it's really hard to see.

You have to use Tamiya colors with the Tamiya thinner of Isopropylalcohol (I recommend the thinner). I think that you use a wrong pressure and distance by airbrushing. It seems that the color was dry, if it reachs the model. If you new using an airbrush I think i's a good idea to do some tests and practice on white paper of scrap before you start on your model.

Yesterday I picked up my package with the parts for the first four chapters at the German customs office. I am really impressed of the quality and what Chuck can do with his laser. Now I am waiting for the extra timber I ordered by Chuck. And then the adventure can start.

Really interesting approach and a lot of preparation works.

Your counter is looking really nice.

A really informative buildlog, Ben. I like your idea, to show some dummy frames.

You're right. And you use a primary source. That's the reason why I said that I will rethink my ideas. Can you give me a date for the logbook-entry? Was it fore of after the large repair from 1780/82?

I don't know the log. I am a really surprised that the ship had 24x and not 26x 12 pdrs. Here are some further information, which I found in modern books (which are not primary sources): I found in Robert Gardiner "The first frigates" for the armament (22/07/1782) of WInchelsea: Quarterdeck: 4x 6pdr long guns; 6x 18pdr carronades Forecastle: 2x 6pdr long guns; 2x 18pdr carronaeds. Further gives the book the following information for the armament of the Niger class: Design: 26x 12 pdrs (upper deck), 4x 6pdrs (quarterdeck) and 2x 6pdrs (fore deck) Added by Admirality orders: 11/11/1756 12x 1/2pdr swiffels (quarterdeck and fore deck) 10/081779 6x 18pdr carronades (quarterdeck) and 2x 18pdr carronades (foredeck) 25/12/1779 4x 18pdr carronades (quarterdeck) and 2x 18pdr carronades (foredeck) 19/11/1794 4x 24pdr carronades (quarterdeck) and 2x 24pdr carronades (foredeck) Winfield (British warships in the age of sail 1714-1792) confirms the information. Winchelsea had a great repair form 03/1780 until 04/1782. During this repair the ship was copperd. There is an information which I don't understand in the moment ("re-rigged with 28-gun ship's top hamper") . I've never heard "top hamper". Does anyone knows, what this means? My plan was to show the ship with carronades. But with the information from Chuck, I have to think about this.

Really wonderful. This model is art.

Your stern is looking really beautyful.

@scrubbyj427 If you like this appearance you can reach this with our group build model. Winnie in her 1782 appearance should looking really similiar to Minerva. So it's not necessary to dream from another model. Have fun with the group build.

Hartelijk welkom in de Winchelsea werf. Ik wens je heel veel plezier met dit mooie project. Welcome to the Winchelsea shipyard. I wish you a lot of fun with this beautyful project.

Thank you Chuck👍

The following photo shows a really wonderful modern model of HMS Minerva, which shows the beauty of an fully rigged frigate. It's my model and motivation for the build of HMS Winchelsea. Picture from Country-Life, April 2011 HMS Winchelsea had a really long career in the Royal Navy and it's possible that the ship is looking similiar to the model of Minerva, after the great repair of 1780-1782. I don't know if I will copper my model of if I will show an older condition of the ship. @Chuck You show in your log photos of the origininal model of HMS Winchelsea. I couldn't find a gallery with all photos. Is it possible to make a gallery? This makes it much easier to find this very informative pictures.

Ah, I see, you are also a friend of the WNW kits. You've a nice collection.

Whow, you have a really nice workshop. My shipyard has 8m² and is now also my homeoffice. I am very interested to see your method of building a hull. It isn't very popular in Germany. I know this method only from older books about shipmodelling.

Thanks very much for your interest on my buildlog. Greg, I will later continue with my other projects, especially Fly and Triton.