AnobiumPunctatum

Thanks everyone, such great advice here, I almost cried!
 
@Cathead, I think you nailed it. The real question is, "is it fair?"
 
My fiancee isn't "Mrs. Wood" yet so I feel odd saying that, and she's going to keep her last name anyway. I use Admiral out of respect, not deference, so I didn't think of the harpy angle. There needs to be a better term for the person from whom time must be taken if we're to pursue a hobby while in a relationship.
 
Full disclosure, I have Asperger's, and my boat is what they call in the Autism community a "special interest". I lose myself in it completely and can spend hours looking at plans and figuring out how things line up in 3D. I have a hard time stopping work on it once I start, and often drift off in conversations pondering how one part fits with another instead of listening to what people are  saying. It's more than a "hobby" to me, it's more like an obsession.
 
The question then is, is it even possible to balance an obsession with the rest of life.
 
I think the suggestion of only during scheduled hours is the way we'll end up going, but we're not there yet.

Ron,
 
have you checked the width of the planks? I had by my Triton cross-section years ago a culmulative error and at the end one plank less installed. Perhaps are your planks to small.
I would plank the upper part of the hull with the same technic Chuck describes for the lower part.

Tom, please don't apologize as I know whatever you write is meant well and from the heart. Thank you for your suggestions on how to go about managing my kerfuffle. I think Anobium's ( Christian's) Idea might be a great one. I'll stick to the plan and divide up the difference. In my next life I will start smaller
 

Ron,
 
have you checked the width of the planks? I had by my Triton cross-section years ago a culmulative error and at the end one plank less installed. Perhaps are your planks to small.
I would plank the upper part of the hull with the same technic Chuck describes for the lower part.

The fairing is over.
I protected the keel with masking tape and used different models of 'Soft-Sander' blocks. These blocks are really handy at the bow or stern because they fit the hull shape more easily.
I started with an 80 grit and then switched to a 120 grit to finish with a finer grit.
I will probably have to make some final adjustments when I sand the port sills.
 

 

 

 

 
Next step: marking the position of the gunport sills.
 

Ron,
 
have you checked the width of the planks? I had by my Triton cross-section years ago a culmulative error and at the end one plank less installed. Perhaps are your planks to small.
I would plank the upper part of the hull with the same technic Chuck describes for the lower part.

I started making the decks with using 1mm cardboard and decal, however in the process I forgot to look at the instructions so the deck was thinner than the kit. When using decal paper for flooring I think it is not really suitable if using water-based glue as it is not sticky, however this will be solved if I cut off the parts of decal that have direct contact continued with the details on the deck.
 

 

 
I used Master Pastel and water to accentuate the rivet details on the deck, however I still feel dissatisfied because it seems that the Master pastel that I use clings quite a bit to the floor color. seems a bit black compared to what I intended.
 

 

 

 
after making the decks I began to wrap the hull with 300gsm paper
 

 
I used Matit putty to fill the protrusions on the hull
 

 
I spent a lot of time with these details and I used the red color as shown in the instructions of the kit and with the help of my little angel finally finished coloring. She seemed to be interested in joining me in coloring :)).
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
And then there was a layer of 1mm cardboard, which hurt my fingers and it took me three nights to fully wrap the hull. however, the result is quite smooth.
 

 
 

 

 
I fixed the outer backbone with these studs because I don't think the glue is strong enough for this part.
 

 
Followed by the boatside on the left and right sides of the ship
 

 

 

 

 
I used this homemade tool to identify the submerged hull
 

 

 

 

 
I use metallic copper paper and an indentation tool (the main function is to make needle mark marks in leather) and it took me 3 consecutive nights to get it done. I use a glossy finish to protect the color from fading over time.
 

 

 

 

 
to be continued...
 
 

Hi, I am 34 years old and live in Vietnam. This is my first post on this forum, hoping to get acquainted with everyone. My English is not good, so most of the time I use google tools to assist with translation, hoping for your understanding.
When I received this kit I realized the detail part was too small for me so I zoomed in to 1:64 to make it easier to do. However, when I launched the Kit I realized that the thickness of the parts had changed a lot and I had difficulty checking their size. But I don't think this is important so here are my first results:
 

Sorry, to hear Tom. I hope you will feel better shortly. Perhaps is the Augsburger method an alternativ, if you want a more stable fundament. I think it's a shame that you have to put your project back to square one. But I think it's a good decision, not to stop modelling.

Tom, I know how difficult back issues can be, so I hope that you get better very soon.
 
My two cents is this. .My boxwood built Winnie with 90% of the deck planking completed weighs a very manageable 5 lbs. Go with Alaskan yellow cedar or boxwood (if you have it). Purchase everything available for the build from Chuck. That includes the bulkheads. Make things easier on yourself, not harder. We all look forward to seeing the project as it progresses.
 
Mike

Good morning Chuck,
 
I found in W.E.May "The boats of the Men of War"  that there were two different options for a fith rate with 32 guns:
 
1761: 3 boats - 23ft longboat, 30ft pinnace and a 24ft yawl
1781: 5 boats - 23ft/ 24 ft launch, 30ft pinnace, 2x 18ft cutters
 
I think it should be nice to show all boats with the ship.

I am  quite well on with sanding the inside of the bulkheads. It is certainly a great deal easier with plywood lite than it was with the Baltic birch plywood I used on W1.

 

Hello everybody,
I started chapter 4 now, and made 2 of those fantastic gun's at the beginning. I think the red carriage suits better, but the natural carriage is beautiful as well.
 

 

 
Next I planked the lower deck platforms and glued the deck beams an deck sheats in position. All turned out well, no problems so far.
 

 

 

 

 
This broadside will look wonderful, once completed!!
 

 
Matthias
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I’ve spent the past few weeks working slowly on the stern.  I have several errors, but on the whole, I’m pretty happy with it.  I don’t know how you guys make these columns look so perfect.  Maybe I need to build a few more of these before I can get it.  I know one issue is that  my spacing is a little off, making the columns shorter than planned.  I think that is also why the bottom molding on the counter is a little high, creating a gap that I had to cover with a second molding.  I also broke Poseidon’s trident.  I have an idea from Chuck on how to fix it using coarse wire, but I’m not ready to work on that yet.

Nice to see another Cheerful underway. It’s a great model, I’m sure you’ll enjoy it. 

Very nice start.  Its really nice to see you making sawdust.

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

Congratulaition for reaching this milestone.
Have a look at the top of your knee of the head. I think, that you havve to rind there some material.

No, I think that you haven't put enough material at the top away. Sorry, my English is ot so good. Perhaps the picture better illustrates what I am trying to describe.

 

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

No, I think that you haven't put enough material at the top away. Sorry, my English is ot so good. Perhaps the picture better illustrates what I am trying to describe.

 

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.