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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Another small update: I have progressed the wheel and standard a little further having painted the brass wheel. The paint to the eye looks smooth but it is very uneven when photographer so close up (noting the rim is only 1mm wide, and the wheel 14mm tip to tip). The paint is burnt sienna acrylic with a glaze made from varnish and wood stain. It looks pretty close to the wod used in the standard. One of the photos also shows all the parts ready to be assembled; including some decals I made. The decals were a dismal failure though as against the brown they just don't show up. I think I will have to paint the brass plates onto the rim of the wheel after all With my shaky hands they won't look too flash! Work in progress so to speak. I am not sure yet whether to try and further smooth the paint on the wheel; as i said - to the eye it looks OK. In the meantime the main companion has been completed; including the ironwork supporting the crutch for the main boom. I have included a close up extract from the quarterdeck photo as a comparison for what we have made. The legs supporting the crutch look a little oversize but these are less than 1mm diameter so near impossible for my fat hands to get smaller unfortunately - again the close-up photography makes it look rougher than it looks to the eye (the ironwork). cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Nice work Danny, if one didn't know better you would never know this was card. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    very neat solution Michael; well executed. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Nice work Rob, those spreaders look good! As Michael said; great to see you back at the modelling desk. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    You've done a great job on those boats mate; they look really good. I am still debating about the locations/stowage of the boats but I have left them as is until I finally get about finishing the others. At this stage I think I will leave them as they are and place the other two on rods besides the ship to simulate them being in the water Cheating I know; but a lot easier. Your build is looking great; look forward to updates. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Really nice work there Michael; lovely metalsmithing! cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Hi Vinnie, I cannot be positive here as Bounty was smaller than Endeavour, but it looks like this is the lead block (288) for the Maintopmast preventer stay. The stay led through this block down to the deck as you have surmised. In Endeavour, this indeed di pass down through the lubbers hole to the port side and had a sister block turned into the tail end. The sister block is shaped a bit like a violin body with two single sheaves within one over the other with the larger sheave to the top. This allowed another single sheave block, rigged with a hook that was attached to an eyebolt in the deck to the port aft side of the foremast, to be rigged to form the main topmast preventer stay tackle which was used to tension the preventer stay. The Main stay was rigged in similar fashion with the lead block on the foremast under the top (at the start of the cheeks/hound) and led down to an eyebolt on the deck to the stbd aft side of the mast. The tail or running end of the tackle was usually secured back onto the tackle proper once tensioned. A similar arrangement existed for the mizzen stay and preventer stay with the blocks attached on the mainmast. Hope that helps a bit? cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Nice details - love the oil stained decks, that is taking your weathering to extremes cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Beautiful work - a pleasure to view this build. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Great to see you back Remco. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    My condolences to Pam and yourself. Best wishes for a full recovery; and yep, we all need time out - good luck in finding that 'stress-free' holiday site. regards Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Thanks guys. I don't think I will resort to the paint brush at this scale Carl. The rim is only 1mm wide and 12mm in diameter; I think the chances of error due to shaky hands is too great. A challenge is one thing; ability is a whole different matter I think I have to agree Eberhard, decals sound the best way to go. Off to find some decal paper. Thanks for the feedback on the glazes; I was on the right track cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Nice to see you back in the workshop and hopefully no further recurrences of the virus Eberhard. That metal work is superb! These will add some great detail to your build. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Three young rugby players in the household? my boys turned to the dark side (Aussie Rules). Rowing and Rugby, that must keep you busy so how do you find the time for all these models (especially at the rate you complete them ) cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Thanks again for the feedback Eberhard, Druxey and Carl. Thanks also to the additional likes; appreciate people looking in. Just to be sure I am not heading off the path; could you please explain what a 'glaze' is please? My initial thoughts were of a thinned lacquer/varnish but this is probably wrong? I was going to colour this with the same stain I used on the wood. Eberhard, WRT to the brass badges/plates on the rim of the wheel, a friend is going to help me experiment with PE this from a very thin brass plate (shim) as a complete circle connected via very thin fret which will be cut away once placed - worth a try I think? If this works we hope to do a ;ace-like etch of the outline of the carvings to glue to the standard - if the PE is thin enough we hope this may give the impression of a carving (at that scale) when painted - can only hope? cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    I hope all is well John? She'll still be there when you are ready to progress. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Hi again Eberhard and very many thanks yet again for your great ideas. The wheel was indeed specified (and reported) as being mahogany so going with a solid colour and decals is a great idea. Now to find a decal maker - or more likely, I'll have a go myself at making the decals Victoria's wheel was specified as 'double' but all evidence points to it being single (as evidenced in the photo also). When I was looking I found a 3D product on Shapeways you may consider if your idea doesn't work out for you - have a look at the double wheel on this page as an example https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey?section=1%2F72+Ships&s=0 That said, having witnessed what you achieve in that micro-mill and lathes of yours I am sure you will work something out. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Those funnels look like they have been there the whole time - nice repair work. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in Denis, Eberhard and Druxey, and for all the likes. Thanks for the tips on faux-wood; much appreciate those. I will investigate the book and online and practice on some scrap to get something I like. The wheel had brass badges/small plates on it possibly on the rim joints? Not sure how to emulate these yet but will try a couple of ideas I have on the scrap as suggested. I have also not done the carving of a kangaroo and emu that was on the lower curved section of the fore standard. At this scale I think I would have no chance as I have not done any carving at all, and I do not want to ruin what I have done. Helmsman HMCSS Victoria (resized).tif If you look closely at the attached cropped image showing the wheel, you can see the brass plates I refer to. The only info I have of the carving is that of a description stating that there was a carving of these on the standard but nothing else. As this design was the forerunner of our national crest I am 'assuming' (I know dangerous) that there would have been a shield also. I base this on the fact that a shield is shown on the bows of the boats in the profile photo of the 'Victoria', and if a shield was placed there, it possibly was included on the standard (see attached). cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Hi Michael, I have tried Vallejo primer also but resorted to Tamiya rattle/spray can for most jobs. The Vallejo primers work okay on some surfaces but the trick is to really let them cure (I have found more than 48 hours) but if you scratch it you will find it hard to sand/fair the edges as it wants to peel off. I also found it does not like brass (PE or other). The Vallejo paints though are generally very good. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    That is a great idea Eberhard; many thanks. So obvious - that is why you are the machinist and me, well .... let's just say I am still learning. All I need to do is find one with a reasonable jaw mouth to provide a relatively useful amount of 'travel'. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Another small update folks; I have been trying to get a 'decent' ship's wheel done. At 1:72, Victoria's wheel is just shy of 12mm. I had a go (several times) at making one myself but at this size I simply couldn't achieve a decent wheel so I opted for an 'after-market' brass wheel (14mm - slightly oversize but I will have to live with that). It looks great but I have yet to find a way to make it look like a wood wheel. Current idea is to chemically blacken it then spray paint it a lighter tan then dry brush with a darker tan? The wheel was purchased separate and I soldered a drum to it. The standards look a lot better in real life than they show here with shadows and the wood grain making them look crooked and/or uneven. they actually sit flush and are pretty even. The rudder telltale on the fore-standard is a 2mm brass tube cut off at 0.6 mm. I printed a 'card with indicator' (1.5mm) then filled the tube with 'liquid glass' (two part). It still needs a little cleaning and a polish but the effect is there. The assembly is only dry fitted at the moment. the grating are the 'foot plates that are there for the helmsman (one either side) Along the way I got a little distracted. A mate came over a couple of days ago and he showed me some planking clamps he had purchased, and I thought I could make some. the resulting product is shown - only took a day to make 20 of these from some "turkish box" and some M3 (3mm metric) bolts and wingnuts. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Welcome back to the fray Michael; great to see you back. The funnel looks great. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    The model will still be there when you are ready to restart Russ - it only took me 14 years for my Endeavour build cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    MAGNIFICENT model Karl - a joy to view this build log. cheers Pat

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