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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    😓 Glad to hear it was not a bigger disaster; I hope the heart has stopped racing. I did not hit the like button for obvious reasons. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Hi Peter, I recently did this for my current build (HMCSS Victoria) - see about half way down page 6. My waterways were a little more complicated and I had to mask the outer hull as well but there I used cheaper masking tape. I simply masked the deck and airbrushed, but brushing will also work. The trick is to use a very good quality masking tape on the deck edge (I use Tamiya) and ensure a good seal by burnishing with small rounded end picks/burnishing tools. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Sounds like you have come to grips with the masts now Steven; look forward to seeing the results. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Look forward to the updates UV cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Enjoy your trip Rod; sounds like an interesting and enjoyable cruise. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    I use a combination of an adjustable table and a working rest. The photo shows this jig (arm rest). The jig was made by my mentor and he passed it onto me. It can be adjusted for height as required and I can rest my arms on the upper bar to work more comfortably at height. I have added a small tool tray to the lower bar (not shown). The adjustable table allows me to get the overall height correct and this jig can then be adjusted for the height of the rigging you are working on - works for me cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    What a wonderful catalog of work you have achieved Karl; a collection worthy of display in any Museum! I have especially enjoyed you build journey on this build. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    I have no idea how it may actually been set up Steven, simply looking at the mechanical aspects. The double sheave calcet has merit as Woodrat has described. Even with a hefty crew there would have been minimal manning of the upper deck as the oarsman would still be required until the sail has been hoisted, and immediately available when the sail is lowered. Then again they may have employed the archers etc to assist in this task, so assess this option with a 'grain of salt' I think a single block at deck level would have been sufficient with the standing end of the tackle attached to a becket on the top of the single block, led up to one sheave in the calcet, back down and through the single block then back up through the other sheave in the calcet, with the crew then working the running end of the tackle. This set-up would have allowed a much more 'controlled' and faster method of raising and lowering. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Great to see sher has found a good home where she is appreciated and has a wider admiration society Sjors. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    A great achievement and an educational tutorial on how to do a restoration - many thanks Michael it has been a pleasure following this log. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Hi Steven, what Dick maybe alluding to is the angle at which you have drilled the holes into the 'blob'? Sorry if I have read too much into your comment Dick. If the mast is angled then the rope should enter and depart the sheave holes on the axis of 'pull' (directly down?) such that the rope does not chafe on the edges of the holes for the sheave? being square on at the moment you may find the lower one might not be a clean entry? looking good! cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    You're making great progress Rod; looking good. If it is not too late, leave the swivels off until you have your shrouds, backstays etc and rattlin done, some of them may get in the way cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Impressive work by the team, some stunning detail you have all achieved with this build - high quality! cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Impressive work Danny cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Thanks Michael, I am assuming you used the coloured leads for the Nav Lights rather than paint? Seems to have done a very nice job. That assortment of leads will last you a lifetime; the coloured ones could indeed be very useful for markups. I like the liftouts etc for the drawers also; given me a couple of ideas there cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    The hull is looking fantastic Steven; a testament to your search for accuracy and quality. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Great attitude mate. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Great progress Michael, the end is indeed in sight Can I ask what that 'pencil' is in the pen that you show in the photo of the nav lights? Is it some sort of crayon or paint pen? May be the exact sort of thing I am looking for (as a suggested solution) to painting on the brass plates on the ship's wheel. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Great progress Patrick, Omega looks fantastic. Excellent level of detail for the sale you are working at - impressive! cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Hang in there Carl; you know the saying "when the going gets...." I am sure you will get through them with the appropriate doses of 'rum' and 'lash' cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Look forward to the updates OC; great to hear the hand is not troubling you so much. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Those cranes look great Greg; even if you don't think they are that good. Great to see you didn't let them beat you - must be colleagues of IKEA instruction authors cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Good to see you persisting Denis - great progress. Stay with it mate; just walk away from it for a while if needs be - getting the head right (not just for the hobby) is more important! cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    With regards to mast rake angles, in some latter clippers, and with Victoria, the rake angles were indeed 'extreme'. I have a discussion in my log, but from the only surviving drawing by the ship's designer (Oliver Lang) the rake of Victoria's masts were from fore to aft - 5 deg, 10 deg and 15 deg. This caused some disbelief at first so I overlaid the rakes measured from a profile photo, two lithographs and the plan and it was indeed as extreme as the plans suggested. The differences in positions can be accounted for by the various 'aspects' the ship was depicted - the photo is slightly stbd bows on, one of the lithos slightly port bows, the plan true profile etc. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Thanks again for sharing Bob; I am a convert to Japanese (pull) saws also - except for my larger saws, all are now pull-saws. I find them easier to use and for some reason (opinion) appear to provide a cleaner finish. I also prefer Japanese knives (marking etc). I like the idea of changing the handles on the saws also; hadn't thought of that - watch out I may copy your workshop cheers Pat

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