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BANYAN

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  1. Another small update folks. Work on the anchors progresses with 1 complete, 1 nearly complete (just the tripping shackles to add) and a smaller stream anchor of the same Pattern in progress. I am still not sure if I will add small chain retainers to the forelocks (pins) in the stock as i would have thought these would be easily 'ripped' off when dragging the bottom etc, and, would get in the way when working the anchor under the cat or fish davit? Open to suggestions. If you look very closely at the photos you can see the forelock pin in-situ in the shank and an even smaller one in the bow shackle. The two completed anchors use purchased shackles, however the one in progress is made by me using EdT's technique for making them. The graphic which is of a NMM model is the style (pattern) of anchor I am emulating but, as I have some contemporary info that the early stocks were straight bar stocks, that is what I have done I am happy that I was able to make all the parts move including the shackles which move independently of each other. The other parts in the 'collective' photo are the "Spencer" anchor slipping mechanism - the stbd side has already been rigged. I have also been progressing some other metal details. The Contract states there was copper capping to be fitted on the cap rails (roughtree rails) in the bow and in the vicinity of where the anchors are worked. I have completed the bow section using some 0.010" copper. I have yet to do the anchor areas as i am still determining exactly how much of the rails to cap :). I have also made a start on siting the pins and 'races' for the pivot gun. The central pin has been dry fitted in the following photo. The races are 2mm high and the outer one 56mm in diameter to give an impression as the aspect of the photo is deceiving to the eye. As always, feedback, suggestions and constructive criticism is most welcomed. cheers Pat
  2. Nice work and a very efficient method of doing it Ed. cheers Pat
  3. Very nice detail Clare, she/he is certainly looking great! cheers Pat
  4. Nice progress John, she is certainly starting to show her shape. cheers Pat
  5. Some nice progress there Greg and Cog; she's a great looking lady Interesting to watch your differing painting approaches. cheers Pat
  6. More nice work Patrick, she is really looking 'sleek' cheers Pat
  7. Thanks Mark, it was but it is still not finished - I have yet to add some large throat but narrow gauge shackles to the shank (one each side which were used to assist tripping the anchors for recovery). I am about two-thirds complete on the second one; only one more smaller version of that pattern to go after this one. The smaller kedge anchor will be the fourth and final anchor; I think this was a standard Admiralty pattern. cheers Pat
  8. Very nice work Clare; this is a very interesting construction. cheers Pat
  9. Hi OC, keeping your brother and yourself in my thoughts - stay strong. regards Pat
  10. Some good progress there Dave. The use of diminishing sized rope as you go up will certainly help the 'admirer' when looking at her as she will be more true-to-life. cheers Pat
  11. Hi Nathan. I used TurboCAD 2016 Pro to develop the plans for my HMCSS Victoria build (ongoing). TC 2016 allowed me to import either a PDF (PDF/Underlay manger) or raster image files (BMP, JPG etc), which if put on their own layer, aligned and scaled then locked, allow you to trace what you need - note they are separate tools in TC. The TC 2018 blurb states that the image manager has been improved in 2018 but my reading to date suggests that this is only to allow multiple image file import rather than interaction between the image and drawing layers (that is selection of parts of the image to convert/use in the CAD drawing). I would really like to know more about the TC 2018 image manager if anyone has any experience with it? In my drawings I have imported some large photographs and lithographs, and have had up to as many as 10 underlying images - visibility turned on and off as required - as background reference images (once scaled). However, I have experienced some issues with the images disappearing occasionally (the image holder remains) requiring reloading of the image. That said, I think that this is a problem of my own making by deleting or moving the parent file (as they are linked) by default. This could be overcome by embedding the image (an option in TC Image manger) but your drawing/TC file will become very large - or do not rename. move or delete your parent image files :). I have drawn up my plans with the wrong techniques with literally thousands of elements/entities as I am a self-taught absolute amateur - this resulted in me drawing every item individually (including each treenail head) instead of using blocks and symbols etc - lesson learned for next time . So the files could have been much smaller allowing some image embedding if required. Overall I have found that the image import, alignment and scaling for using as a background to trace in TC, is a relatively straight forward process once you get to grips with it. cheers Pat
  12. Thanks John, appreciate your kind comment. cheers Pat
  13. Hi Clare; I do not know how I missed this one - I hope you don't mind a late interloper looking in. Great subject vessel and a very nice build of such an unusual modelling subject. I have read through with great interest and look forward to your future installments. cheers Pat
  14. Hi all, again many thanks for looking in and the encouragement. Thanks for your valuable feedback and looking in again Eberhard - I think you are right; that seems the only practical way they may have done it. I'll continue looking for a reference. Thanks Carl, Denis and John, your comments are most appreciated - I have much to learn and improve on yet, especially better control of the files Hi Ed, your many tips and encouragement have been a great help. Yep, those 'races' are milled from a brass plug (inner) and plug receiver (outer). The real life ones were just a thin track on a wood base i believe, but at this scale a little difficult for my abilities just yet. I have been playing around with ideas of how to make the small square bases for the pins (2 x 2 mm) but cannot achieve a consistent product - I think that at this scale I will not use them but will add them to the 1:48 version I do later.
  15. Looks good Patrick and will look great over a properly prepared hul - you're doing well to resist the temptation mate. Mr. Bond? ... it is more like one of the very modern, luxuriously outfitted yachts one of his arch-nemesis with too much money would have - 007's would be smaller and fitted with more gizmos. cheers Pat
  16. Hi again folks, another small update. I have started work on the anchors - Trotman Pattern. The contract for Victoria specified 3 of these, two as Bowers and one as the stream, with the latter a little smaller/lighter. These anchors were assessed by a Committee in 1852 and rated as the strongest/best holding anchors (28% better) yet the Admiralty did not deviate from their "Admiralty pattern". These were an enhanced version of the Port/Hornibal pattern The earlier style of this anchor had the rounded/ovalish shank and the straight iron stock; the bent arm iron stock was not introduced until about 1860. The following photos show the construction of the first anchor from cut raw materials through to completed item. The shank was shaped from a single piece of thick brass then the holes drilled and the slot cut. The flukes were silver soldered to the shank then cleaned up. the stock was made in two parts to enable the ball ends to be turned as they would not fit through the 1mm hole; I don't know how they did this in real life as the is a conical stopper on one side of the stock and a pin on the other - if you look real close you can see I managed to add that detail. The hex head bolt and nut, and the shackle, were some purchased stock from another project, but fit perfectly for this job The anchor was blackened with Birchwood Casey Brass Black (diluted to 25%) The photos are in extreme close up as these are only 21mm long overall and as such show all the early scuffing from my filing before cleanup. The next two should look a little better as my technique improves. cheers Pat
  17. Looks very good Dave; you've done a grand job on the rigging - the blocks especially look good. cheers Pat
  18. Stunning carvings and they really enhance your work Karl. cheers Pat
  19. Hi Antonio, that looks like a good design for modelling purposes. I have putting making a couple off for some time but this may motivate me Did you anneal the metal at all? cheers Pat
  20. Thanks for looking in and your kind remarks OC. cheers Pat
  21. A great tutorial on scale mast making Ed; appreciated. cheers Pat
  22. Looking very good patrick; she will be a beauty completed. cheers Pat
  23. Really nice work Karl, I especially like, and am impressed, that you were able to maintain a symmetrical and evenly spaced opening despite the tapering shape. cheers Pat
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