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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Take your time Keith. I am enjoying viewing this little marvel - the longer time allows for a prolonged visual feast. cheers Pat
  2. Rob, those 'faux' furled sails are really looking good among the increasing rigging 'forest'; it will be great to eventually see the effect against a clean background. cheers Pat
  3. Hi Eberhard, somehow missed your kind response. Thanks again, I am currently looking around within Australia, but this is a good fallback option. cheers Pat
  4. You're making some great progress with nice detail. Thanks for the 'eye candy' cheers Pat
  5. Very nicely done drawings/illustrations Rich - impressive detail. cheers Pat
  6. Thanks Andrew, much appreciated. My usual supplier hasn't got back to me yet. cheers Pat
  7. Nice work on this boat Eberhard; and, I found your conclusions very enlightening. Looking forward to the painted object. cheers Pat
  8. That hull looks very nicely faired Dave; will you be sealing the balsa first? cheers Pat
  9. A simple but very useful jig; thanks Roger. I hope you don't mind if I steal your idea cheers Pat
  10. Thanks for trying Eberhard, much appreciated. We have a long weekend here but will try my usual sources tomorrow; it looks like one of them may carry them (however, logistics/product availability are our biggest problems at the moment) but I may have to wait for a while to get them depending on stock in-hand. cheers Pat
  11. Good idea Keith, but creating even more work for myself I think as, as you hint, I think I may get flooded. Based on the generous interest and suggestions, I think I have settled on two methods depending on size. For the smaller ones (OD of band less than 2mm) I will use the eyebolt method described earlier. For hose bigger than 2mm, I will use the jig I developed (post 818), but use a better drill/bit. Based on one of your ideas I think I have a jig that will allow me to mount them in the mill and use my sensitive drilling attachment, along with my indexing head, to drill holes as required. The real trick here I think will be using a better bit and some cooling compound. I like the idea of those 'pivot' drills and currently searching for some locally. I'll post some photos once I get the jig and drilling setup sorted. Appreciate all the feedback folks, this has been a very useful and fruitful discussion for me. cheers Pat
  12. Phew, your rollicking along now Rob; that rigging looks good. cheers Pat
  13. The occasional use by the 'Admiral' I can handle as I know where the tool/item is; BUT, my real issue is when the boys use my shed as their local Bunnings/Lowes depot cheers Pat
  14. Wow, nice work and really looking great Brian. Not cheating with those tabs at all, that is a good way to secure them. cheers Pat
  15. thanks Roger; both great thoughts worth consideration. I can attest my drill were not sharp enough, so that was my first concern. cheers Pat
  16. Hi again Andrew, Mark and Roger; again I very much value the input and suggestions. Thanks for the link Andrew; I think I will have to invest in some of these - appreciated. Mark, the product I have seen (in various guises) is called 'Blue Stuff' - I am about to order some to experiment with (if I can get t in a suitable size); it comes as a gel, paste or putty (I think). Hi Roger, thanks for the thought - I think you may be right. I have also considered cutting a slot for the flat pieces to fit into which is fine if four plates are needed, but I am yet to work out how to do 3 in such a small diameter tube (without destroying the band). The joint seems reasonable until it is heated through drilling, but that is where your thoughts on surface area of the joint probably are the root cause. I am not sure I can find suitably stiff flat bar stock to use as the lugs. the stock I am using at the moment are only 0.4mm; any thinner and I don't think they will be stiff enough for shaping and drilling etc. Cheers Pat
  17. What a great subject to model Greg; looks like you are making good progress with her. I always seem to be late to your builds; but at least I get there cheers Pat
  18. Hi Andrew, thanks again for your contributions and suggestions. I like the idea of the spear drill but had the same thought as Keith raises, and I have one other BIG problem. No matter how careful I am etc, I just seem not to have the necessary skills to make small tool accessories successfully. Believe me I have tried, but maintaining symmetry and controlling size are my biggest issues down at these sizes. I therefore prefer to buy the appropriate bits etc. I have some piano wire (from a previous failed attempt) and will have another go at your suggestion 3. I do appreciate the suggestions I have received re tool bits etc but we are wandering away from my key issue, controlling the heat in the spiderband type I have made. Please do not think I am ignoring the suggestions or that I am disinterested, etc, they are all interesting and useful, but for this job I need to rethink how I am going about it. The issue I believe (based on the various contributions) is that the geometry of the item under manufacture makes it difficult to hold securely and in a position that allows me to use a controlled drilling action (mill/drill). For the amount of times I drill brass (at this scale) I think I will stay with purchased bits (if I can find them) but need to adapt my process for holding the workpiece. I can place the item at 90 degrees to the bit by putting it into a rotating/indexing chuck, but supporting the ears adequately is another story. Therefore, if I can control the heat using one of the suggested bits (whether bought or hand made) I should be OK. However, while I ponder the problem I think, that at this scale and item size, I will drill the band itself and silver-soldering a twisted shank eyebolt into it, then filing/reaming the underside of the band will work. I have successfully done this for two small spiderbands now (each with an ID of sub 2mm). They look pretty good in-situ (photo will follow once the other parts are made and the whole spar painted) and the eyes seem to hold OK. This is similar in concept to Andrews 3rd option in his first post (818) of cheating royally . Thanks again everybody, much appreciated. cheers Pat
  19. Stunning; that wheel looks great Bitao. cheers Pat
  20. Thanks for posting the Lidar scan Brian, what a great tool. The layout is quite interesting and it is amazing how much detail the lidar actually picks up. I agree, almost impossible to see if doors were fitted. if it helps, the Victoria (1855) storerooms and magazine were also in the after hold but definitely had locks (not only specified in the Contract but supported with correspondence from the build superintendent) - the sickbay was a simple cupboard (kept locked) they called the 'Medicine Chest' which held a range of medicines and 'medicinal comforts' (Brandy etc) - cannot blame them keeping that locked. Hope that helps the thought process a little? cheers Pat
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