BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
BANYAN replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Those blocks look great Bitao, very nice work. Love that ropewalk. cheers Pat -
Nice work Steven, those new deadeyes look good, and as you stated, the whole arrangement looks a lot neater. cheers Pat
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
BANYAN replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You never fail to impress with your skills Bitao; lovely work as usual. cheers Pat -
Great foundation for the frames; the sore neck will be well worth it Michael. cheers Pat
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A great way to display the model Rob, it is unique, has historical and practical relevance. cheers Pat
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Couldn't agree more Clipper, well commented. cheers Pat
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Glad to hear the info was of use. I am sorry that I was not able to provide a summary of all the info I had collected here myself, but 'life' is getting in the way at the moment. Thanks John for posting this. cheers Pat
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Terry, I have found, that in this period, there were several variations of what were called "Trick" anchor release mechanisms in this period. If you would like a copy of what I have assembled please let me know and I will PM the info. cheers Pat
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I have also just stumbled on this incredible work - take a bow John, simply impressive detail at this scale. The pocket watch model just blew my socks off. I won't complain about working at 1:72 again . cheers Pat
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Great collection of photos Keith. I find they help add a sense of realism to the model making process - I often find my reminiscing on what those times would have been like (please find me a way-back machine ). cheers Pat
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Brass Blackening Building Time Survey
BANYAN replied to Dave_E's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Joe, from my experience and what you describe, I think you need to dilute the blackening agent. A 100% solution often results in the process reacting too fast. Rather than etching the surface, it builds a layer of black sooty like residue which easily washes off. After proper cleaning /preparation, try using a 50/50 solution diluted with demineralised water/blackening agent. For small part I even go as low as 30/70 (70% water). The process takes slightly longer, but usually when you take the parts out and rinse, then buff them, you end up with a dark metallic grey finish. For a darker finish, leave it in a bit longer, or put it back in for a second dip. Hope this helps. Cheers Pat -
but Keith .... imagine what could be hidden behind the smoke from a full broadside. First salvo fired, let the iron balls fly... now there's an idea, add cannon balls on the fly cheers Pat [edit] Sorry Glen, couldn't help myself - they'll have to lock me up next.
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The planking (deck and side) looks good Marty. I would definitely seal the deck and sides with a coat of something. I used Testor's 'Dullcote' which is a flat varnish. I only used a single coating at this stage as you may need to scrape small sections back where you need to glue things to the deck. I am glad I sealed mine as it really protects the deck from the grime etc while working it. Dullcote allows touch up that just 'meld' in without any noticeable edges etc. Some people prefer waxes or oils, but I find the Dullcote easier to work with and gives a fairly realistic finish (not glossy). I also found you can put heavier duty final coats of finish over it without difficulty if you want a different finish. Choice of finish is yours though; good luck. I am not promoting Dullcote by any stretch of the imagination; just a happy user. cheers Pat
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I think I recall someone having that at small scales at Shapeways. I'll let you know if I find anything. [edit} - Found these - at wrong scale but as the artwork is done may print of in your scale? https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/ships?type=product&q=refueling+at+sea cheers Pat
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Looks great Rob, that's a novel and unique way to display her. cheers Pat
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Hey welcome aboard Marty, look forward to your build log. cheers Pat
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Lots of nice detail which is really bringing her to life; nicely done. Are you replacing the refuelling equipment also (bellmouth receiver, hose etc)? cheers Pat
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Teaser! Looking forward to seeing it. A clever idea you have come up with. cheers Pat
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Hi John, have sent you two PMs with the info I have. cheers Pat
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Hi John, the method you described in our crossed posts is similar to what I think was used in Victoria. In my case, there were a couple of access hatches used and portable cranes used for ash removal. The use of the chutes and wheelbarrow on the upper deck was deduced from info I found online (I'll send a PM). The use of portable cranes for ash removal was stated in the ship's contract. cheers Pat
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Brass Blackening Building Time Survey
BANYAN replied to Dave_E's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Dave, unfortunately, I do my brass work piece-meal as required and don't time it. In overall 'terms' though I believe it would be no more than one or two (at the most) days (8 hour days) worth for my Endeavour (kit). The process I use is relatively quick so it that part of my metal-smithing is not really a concern for me. My current build (HMCSS Victoria) is a scratch build with a fair element of metal work but I will have spent less than half a day total in the blackening process so far. Honestly, most of my time in metal-smithing is put into developing the right jig/holding and soldering arrangements. The process for actually soldering, cleaning and blackening are pretty quick once the hard-part is done and most only take a few minutes once the part is made. Mark, I must use a different way, as even if only (say) a single barrel is worked, I rarely get an even coverage/blackening etch on the first pass , yet I can put up to 25 eyes into solution at once and have the entire process (black, rinse, buff) done within two minutes. Overall, I find that rarely do larger pieces get a full coverage and/or an acceptable finish on the first pass - must be my technique? The result is that I spend more time doing larger than smaller pieces - the time in the solution is not what I am talking about (that is the same for anything I do). cheers Pat -
That is exactly how the ash was dispersed on the Victoria (1855) also John, except that rather than a gun port, an ash chute was used. Once hoisted by bucket/box or whatever, it was transferred to a 'special purpose' wheelbarrow. The ash was then emptied through an opening at the appropriate height for the wheelbarrow on the leeward side. The chutes had fold down/up parts to allow the ash to be 'pushed' further outboard from the ship's side. The type I used are shown below (at 1:72) but have yet to be fitted - I am thinking of fixing the size of the eyebolts/eyes also. Your model is coming along beautifully. cheers Pat
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