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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Looks nice in-situ Mark, NO make that very nice. The 'Oberon' submarine trophy raises all sorts of imagination - underwater yacht racing? - yacht that shipped the most water? or are you 'Neutral Bay based? cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    I like it Brian, not so 'in-your-face' as bright red. It is closer to a darker wood colour and provides good definition. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Henry (you or the staffy? Nice work, you are getting some really nice definition on these deadeyes, especially the 2mm ones.. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Good progress Steven. yeah, we believe you, we really do cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Hi Steven what CA were you using? Often I find the types used by many modellers just don't want to work that well with some media. I have had good results with Locktite versions. May be worth a try (can get them at Bunnings) cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    So your found an awfully big ruler too...clever lad! Seriously though Steven, that deadeye is almost microscopic; and I thought I was working small stuff. Nice work. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    So you thought you would sneak another past me .... ha! caught you out. What an interesting build Greg, this will a nice one to follow along with. BTW what brand/type is that 'visor' in the second last photo of post #16 above cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Thanks Grant, another great find. I wonder if/when someone will write a new book on the development/transition of building techniques based on this new evidence coming to light. With the many new finds in recent years, it would be great to see old texts updated to reflect the new material. (.... and no, I couldn't do it as I do not have the right skill set :)) I often wonder when I pick up an older reference book, whether some of the material needs an update. A simple check of te internet often is insufficient unless you know exactly where to look. Many of the sites where the info is stored requires paid subscription, and one can only afford to pay subscriptions a limited number of sites unfortunately. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Hi Keith, purely from an 'ergonomic' point-of-view, getting in and out of the hatch, yet alone loading anything through it would have been problematic without removing the barrel of the windlass. With the barrel fitted, there would not have been much head/access room above it for about half the hatch opening as best I can see? Then as pointed out, the mechanics of the windlass are seriously affected by placing barrel axle higher up (leverage alone as the sailors were not very tall mostly). Filling the hatch is neither here-nor-there I think, as people did not have to step on it to work the windlass. The barrel could be rotated with longer staves a little further outboard from the centreline. Hope this clarifies, from my perspective at least, Keith? cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Coming along really nicely Dave; very clean and crisp work. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    You select some very fascinating subjects to model Steven - missed the start, but it seems you have made a very good start. Any room left in the front row? cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Tom, as I offered in my first post, I think it is higher than usual due to its placement so close to the hatch. Once the windlass barrel is added etc, some additional clearance may have needed to allow the hatch to be used effectively? A bit of a long draw of the 'bow string' but... cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Hi Brian; wow! looks great. If it is only the edges of the planking in the cutaway area, I say go for it. As you say, it will highlight the area and differentiate between the planking and framing (which look in natural timber). cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    The suite of sails look great; good effort on perservering with the broken yards. If you are staying with the glue on method Steven, perhaps put some clear 'contact' over the template which will stop the glue sticking to the paper? cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Initial thought is they look like the standards for a windlass? A little high though but that could be due to the close proximity of the hatch under them. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Thanks Steven - awfully big matches you have (are they the BBQ long ones?) Seriously though, you are making great progress and those sails look great. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Very nice joinery Dave; especially on those complicated joints. Are you using experience (eye balling) the cuts or using a jig? cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Nice work Steven. You should add a ruler to one of the shots to remind us just how small this work is. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Some really nice 'bodging' there Greg. The added detail will look great when added and certainly show off the differences. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    I'm late to the party again Greg. A very nice build of an interesting subject matter. How have you found working with resin? Appears you have had no probs at all. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Nice recovery and fix Steven, these frustrations are sometime so close to making you want to ..... cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    That looks great Dave; the subtle trennels are very effective. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Hi Rob, nice work on the detail; looks very effective. We used threads (soaked in PVA) for the scroll work; I'll be interested in seeing how you did it? cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Hi George, I would have to agree with your deduction/assessment that a sliding hatch better conforms with the detail shown in the Admiralty Drawing. I can understand your apprehension, but I think these sliding hatches were used extensively and were constructed in such a way they did not jamb when operated. Also, while occupying additional deck space (horizontal plane), this may have been necessary to minimise height (vertical plane). This would be particularly important for operating the capstan etc where the bars needed to clear any obstructions; the flat (sliding) cover allows crew to walk on them. Not sure what equipment was in this area based on the cropped plans you show, but may need further consideration cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    I have found that once blackened and rinsed, immediately 'polishing' the parts with a soft cloth/paper towel (to remove the powdery residue) works wonders and I then have no issues with 'scale'. This leaves that nice iron grey finish Tim refers to. I have no issues with polishing even very fine parts by simply rolling/rubbing them in the cloth/paper. Allan, I prefer a nice juicy steak - I'll leave the snails for you cheers Pat

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