BANYAN

Randy, further to Ed's excellent advice, I have made up a small tube extension for the end of my vac hose that results in a very useful accessory. The flexibility of a thin walled plastic tube allows me to manoeuvre it into tight places - you can find many sizes at an Aquarium supplier). Use one of those step down reduction adapters to fit the hose as best possible; then use telescoped tube of various sizes to get as close as possible to the final size you want, then pack any gaps with silicon sealer or use tape if only narrow gaps. If you push the tubes further back one into each other without creating a long series of stepped tubes, you end up with a short fat end that can slide inside the adapter. Put a bit of pantyhose/stocking between/over the adapter and thickened tube end when sucking up small parts (rather than having to dig them out of the vacuum bag cheers Pat

Clever use of the toothpicks Brian; those oars turned out nicely. I have seen examples of painted oar handless but not their blade tips. The dark paint on the tips, in the photos at least, appears to foreshorten the blade and make them look flat ended - perhaps not a problem to the naked eye? cheers Pat

The yards and other spar look really good Keith; nice work. cheers Pat

Looks good Rob. The red is a little 'loud' but sure is distinctive - I don't think this appears 'in your face' and is acceptable, especially if you are putting a matt finish on. cheers Pat

You're making good progress now, hopefully you won't have the same issues with the rigging (what to include/exclude that is). cheers Pat

Couldn't agree more with the previous correspondents Keith - you black (sorry gold) -smithing and especially the way you approach each piece is always worth viewing. In the words of that cheeky young mite , " Please sir, can I have some more". cheers Pat

I admire your openness (about errors) and work ethic to get it right Rob. cheers Pat

Ditto mate; the blue just seems a little too bright for my taste - but as others have said - your model, your choice. cheers Pat

Look forward to seeing your rigging progressing Keith. Welcome to my rigging world (research, uncertainty and frustration) . One author I have found very useful for the rigging of our period is 'Seamanship' by Commander G.S. Nares of 1868. Others that may help are 'Seamanship' by S.B. Luce also 1868 and 'The Boy's Manual of Seamanship and Gunnery', 2nd Edition, by C. Burney, 1871. All of these are available as free PDF downloads. cheers Pat

Also doubles a chisel - see also tools used convert small project to large. Perhaps the most useful - also paint lid opener, weeding tool, paint and rust scraper... but most importantly, for punching holes in the top of a beer can when the ring-tab parts! 🥳 cheers Pat

Your tooling skills are every bit, if not better, than your modelling skills Eberhard. An artisan! cheers Pat

Really nice detail Greg - enjoying your log! cheers Pat

Great work on 'chapeling those masts Rob, very nice indeed despite your so called imperfections. cheers Pat

Nice recovery, and you are progressing well. cheers Pat

Very nice work Richard, your model is looking great! cheers Pat

Hi Keith, the lower yards were hoisted and lowered using the mast pendants and mast tackles (heavy). Once hoisted, they were transferred to their respective patent truss and supported with sling chains, then the tackles removed. Once in place they were rarely lowered unless for repairs or mast replacement etc. cheers Pat

Very clean nicely detailed work Ilhan, a viewing pleasure. cheers Pat

Interesting concept, look forward to seeing the results Rob. cheers Pat

Keep plugging away mate; I fully understand the frustrations. I am experiencing the same woes with my current build Now that you have made a decision it should all come together. cheers Pat

Thanks Eberhard, that was my interpretation also but continue to be confounded by the Rigging Warrant entries - in this instance the very specific inclusions against the fore lower yard: @ line 1 "Lifts, single - 3.25ins hemp rope, 12.5 fathoms, associated with two 7" double blocks and two clip hooks." @ line 2 "Lifts, Tackle - 2.25ins hemp rope, 34 fathoms, associated with two 7" single blocks." The custom used through out is that the total number of blocks, hooks etc listed are used for both sides, BUT the lengths of rope are specific for an individual line (in this case each lift is 12.5 fathoms long etc). The other custom used is that the line immediately following is associated with that line (usually the tackle for that line - but in this case very clearly identified as such). If using the 'lift' alone (pure definition of single), the 75 foot length places its end about 15 feet above the deck - BUT, if then worked with a tackle, the tackle has sufficient length to be worked from a height of the lower yards - this suggests the tackle would be just some 15 feet with a very, very long working part? The ONLY other thought I have is that perhaps the upper lead block was placed much higher than the lower Cap (perhaps at the topmast stop?) - but this would be very unusual. In some ways this configuration makes a bit of sense as the working angle from the yardarm to the lower cap would be very shallow. In Victoria, the upper mast was a combined pole (top, topgallant and royal masts all in one). If I moved the lead block to such a point, the lengths make sense, but again no extra block is listed - perhaps again the top rope block could be reutilised (snatch block). What do you think? My first thoughts were that the tackles are used as purchases, but that leaves a very long length of the lift and a very short tackle (as shown in Keith's photo). However, if the lift is made up as a tackle as shown by Underhill (earlier illustration) the lengths of rope provided fit very well, but the number of blocks provided is short by one single 7" single block per side. All very confusing Thanks again for your suggestion. Pat

Hi Keith thanks for the photo; not sure what I am looking at, but if you mean the line abaft the mast with the short purchase - yep that is about the only way I see it working with the listed items - but run into the same issue; the amount of line specified for the purchase is much to long. Thanks again. cheers Pat

Hi Tony, thanks for your response and suggestion - yep - confirmed - we are talking about the lower yard lift. Agree ,it would not be worked much and may not require a purchase, and had accepted that. The core of the question I am trying to get an answer about is what is defined by 'Single' - Is it a single rope/line OR can a tackle qualify as single also (i.e. only one tackle provided rather than two per side) cheers Pat

Don't get too dispirited; the feed back is offered to help and this is all part of the learning process. A kit 'bash' can be problematic and at times disheartening, especially if the parts are of poor quality or inappropriate to the model. I am not familiar with a Ritter Killer bar - is that some form of tiller or the European 'candy' bar? The best way to determine the appropriate sizes is to first determine the average size (height) of the crew for the period. Once you have established that, draw up a quick look-up or reference table that allows easy determination for various sizes (say in 3 inch increments; 1 inch would be better), and convert to metric for the scale you are working. Then search the internet for the types of items to reference against. For a tiller, do a search on mid-18th century tiller, or mid-18th century steering etc, and note from the resulting images the estimated height the tiller appears against the people/crew where that it is possible. The pictures should also provide some ideas on the configuration - usually a long tapered bar, some rounded towards its forward end, and that is morticed into the rudder head. Sometimes they have cleats, or maybe holes to accept tiller ropes, or even as for Endeavour have a metal end Unfortunately, a tiller would be something you may have to scratch build - using HM Bark Endeavour as a reference may help? This is a picture of the tiller I made for my HMB Endeavour which may give you some ideas - this was built at 1:60 scale. If this model is intended as a personal interpretation of a vessel you like, build it as you would like - the suggestions being offered are only intended to help with the way you present your choices; I don't think anyone is trying to change your mind on what you wish to use/build. The windlass/anchor cable suggestion for example, is simply a suggestion that only a single cable would be rigged. It is your choice whether to accept the suggestion. Cheers, and good luck. Please keep plugging away at it. cheers Pat

Thanks Mark, a possibility as there have been other entry errors but more to do with the association of blocks on the wrong line etc, not so much with rope length cheers Pat

Agree it is a matter of choice, not sure of the origin of the name - may not haver arisen from its colour. If you're looking for a suggestion, my choice would be natural not black - definition looks a little better. cheers Pat