BANYAN

No problem, I also forgot to mention, I don't mind working from any part of the lines, as long as I remember to use the same point consistently. I'll try an dget that photo later today. cheers Pat

D, what I do is use the calipers or 'calibrated' ruler (one that has been checked and certified accurate to a 'poomteenth' - sorry for the techo jibber jabber) and mark the closest full centimiter on the plan, etc then I have this viewing/magnifying glass that has a little calibrated pointer and scale on the bottom that allows me to wind the needle/pointer to exactly where I need it. That gives me a very accurate measurement overall. I don't have an issue transfering this to wood etc with a good caliper (I use Mitutoyo -Japanese) calipers which are very accurate). I'll try an remember to take a photo and get more info on that viewer/magnifier for you. cheers Pat

You leave me grasping for the appropriate superlatives yet again Keith; that is some extraordinary detailing you have achieved. Don't worry about 'dotting' about when you show us this quality of craftsmanship. Impressed! Pat

You have a very nice collection of builds there Schrader, and this little beauty will just enhance it further. cheers Pat

Great to see the keel laying Joss; but I seem to have missed the ceremony Great process that results in very clean well mating joints. cheers Pat

Nice work Al, those boats look great - the clinker work is excellent. Are these done pre or during you arm issues? cheers Pat

That has to be the best backdrop I have ever seen - well presented and executed. cheers Pat

A great result on those anchors Eberhard. A very effective process you came up with; I would not have liked to cut those out of sheet stock also The drawings and process would be equally effective using PE also I think. cheers Pat

Simply stunning work Keith, looks so realistic. cheers Pat

That is a great backdrop for your model, very much in theme for telling the full story. cheers Pat

Thanks for your response masa, and to Wefalck for the additional info on its properties - I think I will scratch that as an option from my list. It looks beading wire may be the way ahead at the moment. An interesting topic, many thanks for raising it masa. cheers Pat

If you have a lot of room for improvement Keith, I am going to need an eternity to catch up That is some very nice detailing. cheers Pat

Ah, but you do like a challenge don't you? Looking good so far. cheers Pat

I can't help you with the wire composition Masa, but it has piqued my interest as I have some wire rigging to do very soon. I became a little concerned when you mentioned its heat/fire issue though. Although you would not put a model that close to a heat source, what about inadvertent temperature rises caused by light beaming through windows etc. Like you, I would be very interested in the properties as I was wondering how to source suitably sized wire. May I also ask why you are seeking a black finish to the wire? My understanding is that wirerope was treated with boiled linseed oil which, after some time would build up and make the wire darker, probably a silvery brown (darker in the grooves. Sections of the wire were parceled and served (not wormed) so will have been darker again in those sections? cheers Pat

Rob, I know that you previously mentioned a deep hull, but did not realise how so until seeing the last batch of photos. WRT the compound, I am assuming you have done trials yto enure the outer planking will glue to it OK? cheers Pat

Thanks for that Keith, had not thought on beading wire - will need to check that out also. cheers Pat

OK we'll be generous, have a make-n-mend also, and as we're in a good mood, you can also have an extra tot cheers Pat

Haven't lost me Rob, there is more than one way to achieve the same outcome. AS you are looking for hull form, what type of planking technique you use is entirely up to you. cheers Pat

Coming along very nicely Ilhan. I am enjoying seeing the progress you are making. Pat

Another masterful example of your skills Eberhard; they look great! A very nice addition of detail. cheers Pat

Thanks Alan, I 'll keep a copy for future projects. Much appreciated. cheers Pat

This will make into a great cross-section Doc. The keel is progressing very nicely with nice tight joints. cheers Pat

Hi again Alan, I am also commencing this journey and have been doing a little experimentation. I purchased some plastic coated wire, which I think may be fishing trace to try; mine is clear but you can also get black coated. it did not matter for me as I intended, and did, melt the coating off. I also wish to experiment with control wire used with the tethered RC planes. I tried the former type first, as once the plastic is off the lay of the wire is more like the real thing with a 'flatter' longer lay. My initial worries are that it kinks a little too easily and if you tension it enough to remove these, there is too much strain on the fittings; but I am at scale 1:72. I found that by stretching it, it did remove many of the kinks but still not good enough that it would look right. I have not tried the control wire yet. I am also considering using a silver or grey thread made up into a loose/greater angle lay rope instead. The problem is that I am not sure it would stay together so well if laid at say 70 degrees. I will be interested in your thoughts on all this also. WRT to setting up the wires, for my build at least, the wires were not spliced but rather turned on a thimble and seized back on themselves (according to Underhill). I am assuming that yours may even be 'swaged' or ferrule crimped? Also, mine were set up with rigging screws and for the shrouds - rigmaiden lanyards ( metal tensioning device that had the same purpose like rigging screws). This will make things a little easier but finding or making (I am doing the latter) rigging screws is difficult/frustrating at 1:72 I also have to see how wire will respond in my serving machine as Underhill writes that the foremost leg of the shroud gangs, the eyes, and the tail ends of the wire ropes were parcelled (not wormed), and served. I have read somewhere, but not yet found it again, that the parceling was painted with white lead before being served, then the whole wire treated with boiled linseed oil. Not sure what the modern practices are, or whether you will need to do any serving. Hope this helps a little? cheers Pat

A terrific mini-model in its own right. Very nice! cheers Pat

Geeez, life is tough in the west, spare a thought for us 'pariahs' in Victoria still in lockdown Great idea for the bread boat though. Seriously though Dick, that hull is very well constructed, looks great! cheers Pat