BANYAN

Looks good Denis, another for your collection of beauties. cheers Pat

I don't know how I missed this Druxey; I hope there is room for a late-comer to the party. Seeing what you achieved in other builds, this should be another beauty. I, and I am sure many others, appreciate the tutorial on how to develop a boat/building plug. cheers Pat

Looking mighty fine Keith, some lovely detail emerging. It reminds me I have to get back to the workbench - too much time spent researching the rig (but almost complete now). cheers Pat

Very nice work Allan, coming along very nicely. I did put in trennels for the deck planking in my Endeavour (1:60). The size there allowed me to go two sizes bigger in the Byrnes draw plate (very slightly oversized. They look okay, especially at viewing distance, rather than the photo close-up distance. I also used bamboo (from skewers well wetted before drawing) - very painstaking as you have pointed out. Here is what it looked like. cheers Pat

Hopefully all will be sorted for you quickly mate; know where you are at as I have the same issue. cheers Pat

Those blocks look great Eberhard, especially at the scale you are working. cheers Pat

Some very fiddly work nicely accomplished there Eberhard. cheers Pat

She is looking great Denis, a good job on the paint. cheers Pat

Looking great Doc! cheers Pat

Very nice work; as Druxey says, a pity some of this lovely detail will be obscured. cheers Pat

A very nice build you have going here Brian, especially noting this is your first scratch build. The level of detail and clean work are admirabl. cheers Pat

Lovey work, and another successful collaboration between you both. Another very fine model in the making! cheers Pat

Greg, if it helps, I had a 3D print of 'Vampire' done at 1:350 through Shapeways. You can get the front deck assembly as a separate piece and you could cut away the unwanted bits? cheers Pat

Just to be clear guys, it is not the V&W class but the Daring class I am talking of. These were the follow-on type to the Tribal and had a very similar hull form. This is a picy of the steam capstan arrangement on Vampire . The capstan stayed much the same even after the major upgrades in the late 60's; but, if you can find a picture of the pre-modernisation it might show a more-correct version.. Some of the surrounding structure, such as the cable ramps, drip/oil dam etc may be much diufferent but the steam winch is probably much the same - these were steam driven with the steam pressure dials ev ident in the central (black) box. cheers Pat

Again Greg, the Daring Class had a steam winch also; probably of the same type. I have photos of Vampire's capstan if that helps. Any of the 3D printed steam capstans of that period would work I think. cheers Pat

I can't state with definitive evidence, but the basic hull form of the Tribals look very similar to the later 'Daring' class, to which plan the Aussie Navy's Vampire, Vendetta and Voyager were constructed. It might be relatively safe to look at the plans of those ships (readily available) to establish the shape of a bow curve? cheers Pat

Hi Allan, another great project you are undertaking. Move over a bit Bruce and I'll take a pew also, but I will share my popcorn cheers Pat

A lively discussion WRT to underwater fittings, the gudgeons, pintles, water intakes etc in my vessel (1855) were gunmetal.... Back on track though , the question related to upper deck equipment. In addition to the 'pretty work', such things as compass covers, especially the night covers, were usually brass and probably kept quite shiny - I know from experience that the 'morning watch' was brass work time, especially in the wheelhouse etc. Other items that sometimes attracted the polishing rag were the brass work on the Captain's gig (especially the brass in the rubbing strips), the ship's bells (forward and watchkeeping), brass ornamentation on such things as the bitts, companions and other upperdeck furniture. Some larger equipment in some 'period' ships also left the 'heads' and some fittings on such things as pumps etc brass simply as 'pretty work' - depended on the skipper (and if a warship, on the operational circumstances). As explained by John though, if it could be easily removed , it was stowed away in harbour if the public or other workers were embarking Just another pennies worth Pat

Thanks again for the info Dr. Per and Lieste; much appreciated. Dr. Per - appreciate that clarification which allowed me to move on using the Lees tabular data. For my project I found the 1st Class Brig data aligned quite closely with the screw-sloop I am researching and building. I applied the same formula to determine the appropriate ratio/proportion and applied it to my needs; as follows (the measured is as taken from the profile photograph of the ship I have - and conforms with the calculated proportions) Yard/Boom Lees Boom Length (Proportion of the Yard) Victoria Boom Length Victoria Given Diameter Lower Yard 55’ 56’ (Specified) Lower Boom 36’ 0.55 32’ 6” (Measured) 6½” (Measured) Topsail Yard 41’’ 43’ (Specified) Topsail Boom 27’ 6” 0.67 28’ 10” (Calculated) 5¾” (Calculated) Topgallant Yard 27” 25’ 6” (Specified) Topgallant Boom 20’ 6” 0.76 19’ 4” (Calculated) ⩳4” (Calculated) I must admit, due to the peculiarities of the spars in this vessel (similar as to what you appear to be finding with your project also) I have not looked closely at tabular data, especially in Kipping and Fincham. I may have to revise my thoughts on that; but, I am happy to say I have almost concluded my research in this aspect (spars) and well down the track with the rigging now. Thanks again for your info and pointer. cheers Pat

Hi Allan, I tend to use a wider central 'king' plank and allow for any 'crown' (I think that is what they are called - as in thicker) planks that are called for in way of guns and heavy equipment. I do work out a butt shift pattern but as you say, often between upperdeck furniture such as companions, hatches, etc, this pattern can go to 'custard'. Hence, most of my central planks (either side of the king) are measured to fit between the central upperdeck furniture and equipment where possible. I then start my butt shift working outboard from there to the crown planks, using the shift pattern you discussed on my thread related to 'shift pattern last year (maybe the year before?). Where possible, I try to make the crown planks fit the pattern but I am not 'governed by that. Druxy has identified 1700 as a general date for better organisation of the planks , so please note all my builds have been after that date. cheers Pat

Thanks for the info Bob and Dr. Per. It just goes to show that no matter how often I checked, somehow I still missed that info in Lees. Can't figure how I did that, but do appreciate the pointer. Dr. Per, I am assuming the decimal values you provide are you calculations of the values provided in the tables (Lees)? As suggested, I am not too hung up on the exact length just need a 'rule' or indicated length to work with to get an idea of the diameters (for the ID of the irons). Many thanks Pat

Hi folks, back with another question for the more knowledgeable on these matters. I have read and searched far and wide to try and find guidance on the lengths of studdingsail booms. I have found guidance on the diameters (1" in every 5 feet of length) but except for one 'tid bit' provided by Jans Sajt (following) whom suggests they were about half of the length of the 'entire' yard I have not been able to find any guidance. These were not given in the ship's specifications either so I am hoping someone can point me in the correct direction. I have checked Lees, Lever, Harland, Underhill and Kipping. http://www.jans-sajt.se/contents/Navigation/Modelling/Patterns_Rigg_Stunsails.htm "The studding sail boom was half as long as the entire yard. When set, the yard would be extended to 1.5 of its own length. " I am not sure if the auther intended to use the word "entire' in this respect as that would make the boom as long as one side of the yard itself. This does not make sense to me - does he actually mean half of one side of the yard? Would appreciate any suggestions or pointers; many thanks Pat

Stunning work as usual mate; I am very impressed with the consistent high quality of your joinery - this is an exceptional build! I very much enjoy seeing your updates and especially the specialised tools you create. cheers Pat

Looks very good Keith; a great start. cheers Pat

If you call that crude I still feel ever so inadequate with my level of skills. I have had to remind myself on several occasions that I was looking at a model and not the real cabin. Exceptional work Michael. cheers Pat