Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

BANYAN

SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5,544

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Simply stunning work all round. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Just came across your build Mark, your half model is looking great. I am into bigger vessels, but the grace and beauty of these 'flyers' catch my imagination. Following along with interest. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Druxey, I have experienced the same issue with the disk sander and also received a replacement switch from Jim and installed it. However, I am seriously contemplating changing the switch of all my tools to a new arrangement that I have set up for my lathe and 10" table saw. That is, bypassing the toggle switch and connecting to power via an 'emergency stop on/off switch that I place near the saw but is easier to access and easier to stop the saw in an emergency. This of course means I will be restricted to moving the saw on the bench within the length of the power cord/cable I build in - but this is not an issue for me. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Allan, I use 'Zapon' Lacquer for my brass etc as it creates a solid good cover that does not yellow (It is the preferred product for gilding and the like) so may work? Eberhard (Wefalck) can provide the technical detail if you are interested - he recommended it to me. The other product I use, especially if working with paper, is an artist's spray on lacquer (I am currently trialling NUART - Matt Spray) which work well. Being an artist's product, I think it should be safe and long lasting when used it with paper and similar mediums (such as canvas etc)? cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Thanks Druxey, that explains why it is safe and very convenient to add that detail now. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Looking great Druxey, are you clear coating or painting the interior? If painting how do you protect the metal work if it not easily accessible? cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Allan, I had some good results printing to a good quality decal paper and applying to pre-painted wood, then sealing with non-yellowing varnish. Have to be careful with the varnish as some of the varnishes break down the decals as soon as it is applied (seems to be a decal paper type vs varnish combo which needs experimentation) . This is only if you are going for a 'frieze' effect, if going fore a carved/embossed look your paper based versions would be better. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Shipman, I believe yvesvidal, is quite correct - they look like sacrificial anodes for 'cathodic protection'. Not unusual to see them on the ruder, and a whole string of them on the hull. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Very nice job on painting the hull Ilhan; looks great! cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Exemplary work - your skills shine yet again. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Keith, I am researching the studdingsail booms for Victoria at the moment. For ships of the era we are both interested in/building, the various authors all suggest that it was usual to have the swing booms fitted to the fore-end, and parallel with the fore-channel (not common to carry a lower studdingsail on the main). A crane (chesstree with a hinged metal bracket) was fitted on the hull near the end of the boom such that when swung in/aft, it securely held the boom parallel with, and out the same distance from the hull as, the channel. In Victoria, this is evident in the profile photo I have of her which shows a gooseneck fitted on her inner boom end. The cranked gooseneck seated in a lug fitted on the fore part of the fore channel. Even if Tennessee did not carry studdingsails, she probably had the boom fitted as a boat boom anyway? She then would have a fore and after guy, topping lift and associated lizard, and rope ladders, painters etc on the boom (only when in use). Hope this is of some value? cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    And you call this slow progress? Very clean, beautifully detailed crisp work Druxey, and a tutorial on how to do it along with it. I for one am enjoying every post of this build. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Wow Rob, what a great job, especially at the sizes you are working with - impressed. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Ditto on the quality of your workmanship Alex; always a joy to see your work. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Greg, those are the 'naval pipes' (one each side) fitted with a bonnet (bent part) and a hand wheel operated guillotine (cable stopper/brake) . On deck will have been a blake slip for letting go the cable and a screw slip for use as a 'preventer' (I think I can see the screw slip on deck). The blake slip would have been fitted to engage with the cable on it forward sweep on the fore side of the capstan with the bottle screw slip further out near the hawse pipe/hole. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in and comments Keith and Rob; much appreciated. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Thanks John. In the modern day that would be the Quartermaster - I think back then also; so it is in a convenient place without getting in the way. I placed the door of the binnacle to the rear as a form of spray protection; but if flipped around, the bell would be in an even better place cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Another small update; the watch bell has been added to the binnacle. This was turned by another club member; it is only a few millimetres in size (5 x 3 if I recall). This bell was called for in the Specification/Contract, in addition to the ship's bell, but only stated that it was to be in the vicinity of the helmsman. We thought this to be an appropriate place? The compass cover has not been glued down yet as we are think of making one from copper/brass. This is a white metal one that has been adapted and painted brass. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Thanks all for looking in and very encouraging comments, much appreciated. Tony, yep, CNC cutting is far better than laser cutting, particularly at this scale. Laser cutting risks potential damage to the parts when cleaning the char (even if cut at low power levels). I did try laser cut parts but I was no overly enamoured with them. Eberhard, I understand your suggestions, and did try to use brass sheaves. My attempts to turn them were very unsatisfactory, but it did not even dawn on me to use PE (well, at least it is a good idea to remember if I ever need to redo them). cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    The results speak for themselves; well worth the effort to force yourself to the workbench - nice work Keith. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    There are only a handful of modellers whom produce such clean crisp work so consistently; and your work is well up there. Thanks for sharing. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Looking great Steven; if the séance work you can ask Henry directly about the rigging etc cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    A very nice job on the hull bottoms Greg; you have this technique nailed now. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Hi Roger, not sure if you are aware of this info sheet from American Beauty. On seeking their advice I was forwarded this information which may help. The particular point I am tryng t emphasise is the heat point is around the point of resistance, which they reinforce using special probes. May be worth considering when making yours? I have no financial or other affiliation with the company; simply they have been very helpful and accommodating in creating a product I needed, and in how to use it properly. " The first thing is to better understand "Resistance Soldering: How it Works and What are the Benefits" as provided in this linked document. The type of thermal energy provided is based on both resistance and conduction of the converted (high amperage, low voltage) current from the power unit. The current provided is A/C so there is no + or - when attaching the handpiece or accessories to the output terminals. The resistance to current flow causes the heat and is why we incorporate the materials used in our electrodes and elements. The conduction path is intended to have as little resistance as possible and is the reason for the materials used for the handpiece and accessory components. The copper plating on the electrodes is to improve current conduction to the tip so that the heat developed is localized to the point of contact as much as possible. If you are experiencing excessive heat where the clip of the current return harness is in contact with the component or work piece the cause is resistance or poor conduction. This issue may be caused by oxidation,dirt or other contamination affecting the required current flow. Another cause might be the location of the clip or the materials it is clipped onto. As long as the materials are conductive (copper, brass etc.) the clip does not need to be as close to the intended solder joint, but if the materials are less conductive (stainless steel) the clip should be in closer proximity to the joint." Hope this helps. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Sorry for the long delays and spasmodic posting of updates, but I have been somewhat distracted from the build by research. I am at the point I cannot progress until I finalise the rigging and belaying plans, and noting the unique rigging arrangements, this is taking a lot longer than I anticipated. Progress is good and I and in the final stages of that which has allowed me to make some small progress on the build. I have completed the lower spars and adding the fittings now. I will post some photos of them soon. In the meantime I have progressed the sheet bitts as shown below. I must thank Mike Shanks for his assistance in CNC cutting these for me. I drew up the plans for these and for the PE. Even at 0.2mm the PE looks slightly oversized, but the best I could get done locally. For reference, the brass strips along the cross-piece is only 1mm wide and I tried to simulate the screwheads (not that successful though). The single bitts are placed , one each side abaft the mizen, while the two sets with cross-pieces are placed before the fore and main masts. cheers Pat

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...