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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Good find Keith - a perfect fit. If you wanted to, you could remove the front door and panels and replace with a larger single pane/door recycling the existing wood? It would look some of those older style display cases then. BUT, that is even more work for you cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Ditto all the above - its a joy to see your build updates, tool manufacture and the quality of your work, even if it won't be seen later. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Hi Steven, remembering, like you (but not as small as yours) I am working at 1:72, so these will be quite small. The imagery I have of the belfry infers that it is a timber rather than a metal frame, however, a valid argument could be made for either. The belfry appears to be fitted on top of another structure otherwise it would not be visible above the roughtree rails. It is therefore possible that it forms part of the gallows structure (only place the gallows could be based on other equipment etc). HMCSS Victoria Lithograph (Crop) - original from State Library of Victoria (SLA) If the belfry was constructed with a metal frame, these were usually a single-arch (as shown below), and a relatively thin structure. However, the profile of the curves for such a frame conforms much tighter to the shape of the bell as depicted in the lithograph, and it is much thinner than what is shown by the artist. The version shown below sat on the riser timbers and would have been more conically depicted by the artisist if this type was used? Typical Metal Frame Belfry as fitted to MV Coho David Steel, ‘The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship’, Volume 1, 1794, - Folio XXXIV – for a wood structure, informs that for a Sloop of War, the belfry should stand 2’ 5” above the beams. This ties in well with the scaled version of the lithograph when underlain with the CAD plan and use the gallows end boards in lieu of the deck beams (i.e. 2' 5" above the top of the end boards). My interpretation so far is shown below which shows the 100 gallon freshwater tank which will be braced by the gallows end boards (and two rails - I have yet to completely draw/finish the gallows structure ) - the front timbers go down to/through the deck and will fasten to the deck beams in similar fashion to the bitts. I know the lithograph shows them more slanted, but the artist's perspective used had the ship on a slight bow on aspect, which may have influenced/skewed his depiction (well that is my current story ) cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Thanks Keith and Jim, appreciate you looking in and for the kind comments. Yep, just a tad small for the scale to add the striker I will ensure it is included in the ship's bell up forward though. Speaking of which, i am having some difficulty coming up with an acceptable (doable) way of making the top of the belfry. I need to make this the usual centre curved (concave) with ears with minimal decoration. I am thinking three very thin layers of wood each slightly narrower in width to give appearance of staggered layers. Just not sure how I will go about forming the curve with horizontal projections yet. I have entertained the idea of milling a single piece with the steps and then trying to steam/water and heat bend over a former but first attempt deformed the steps. Trying this with laminated layers would separate them unfortunately All suggestions entertained. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    If that is pedestrian then my current build will be relegated to prehistory before it is finished At least five years on this one and I am just starting the spars and rigging. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    I admire the challenge you have set yourself Steven. What you have done already looks good. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    If you find a source let me know - I could certainly make use of some better eyes and 'shake-free' hands cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Couldn't agree more Druxey, very nice work BTW. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Ditto Druxey's comment; those sketches are just as impressive as you building skills. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Impressive work Mark. the second from last pic of your build is so very lifelike. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Stunning Cross section model Karl. I enjoyed looking through your build. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    I must agree with OC, this build is looking great! Nice work Greg. 👍 cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Some nice resin and PE parts there Greg. WRT screw, while a much nice part I note it is 3 vice 4 bladed - which was correct? cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Nice find Joe, I would be very interested in any feedback on this product. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Keith there is a point (scale/size) where it is just not possible. The block above looks good mate, but might I suggest that unless it is just a temporary fit, the bottom line should be coming from the top (as you look at it) hole in the block such that the fall is working over the sheave? At your scale the work in your 'creation' is nice and clean. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Persistence pays off; nice work. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Ok folks, another small update. This shows current progress of what I have actually fitted but there are a lot of items already made up (such as davits) that are yet to be added. The new updates show the bitts and fore pinrails fitted (but belaying pins still to be added) and the 'charlie noble'. I am in the process of designing the gallows, which incorporated a 100 gallon freshwater tank and the belfry, at the moment. This will be fitted just abaft the foremast. In the meantime I am also working on the bowsprit which can also be seen in the first photograph. The gammoning (chain) with its scotchman (iron sheet nailed to the top of the bowsprit) has been added. I am also working on the stay (fore, main and mizen) tackles which I am pre-fitting and will add the stays later as there won't be much room to fit the forestay tackles in particular. As you can see these were made up from the more modern style internally iron bound blocks (sourced from Chuck - Syren). The lower block is fitted to the deck eyebolt with a ring. The eyebolts have a thread applied so they will grip the wood better when glued in place. I have based the tackle on some detail extracted from a photograph taken in 1865 which provided confirmation of the type of block and allowed me to calculate the size of the block (13") - Chuck's block equates to just over 12.5" at 1:72 so is pretty close. I have still to clean the stain from the iron eyes etc - this is just a proof/trial of how to make them up. From the eyebolt to the eye of the treble block is 22mm. For those intrigued, I am using one of Michael Mott's excellent third hands, fitted with hook arms kindly made for me by Eberhard Falck. The block shells are 4.5mm long. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Keith, no easy answer I am afraid. These days with modern steel shackles, one of the more important factors is 'breaking strain' / how tensile is the pin etc. To be honest I have not worried and simply used thin wire to join the two item as above. Just enough detail to suggest a shackle. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Oh come on Keith - shackles should be easy Just kidding mate! At these scales I use thin wire as a loop to join the hook (or other item) to the block/eyebolt and twist the two ends together, bend the twisted wire to 90 degrees to the loop, then snip off leaving a short projection to simulate the projection of the pin. As to hooks, there are some very small photo etch versions around if you want to use them. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Yankee Clipper - did you get the CDs? I seem to recall all the plans were also provided in digital format - may be mistaken though. If provided, you should be able to get them printed fairly cheaply from the CD? cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    The many small jobs needed before you can even start rigging is incredible. The blocks alone take significant time as you have found; the effort has paid off though, they look good. Now for stropping them, not to mention the hooks, shackles, etc - Sorry cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Some really stunning detail there Druxey, a credit to your skills. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Nice job Dave. I cheated with my multi-faceted waterway and made each level with its unique bevel separately. Looks like you got a nice clean shape with your method. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    That SS looks good, yep a little cool but as your hull is 'pale' it suits/compliments I think. Tool envy indeed; they are some seriously nice hand tools. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Condolences on your loss Brian. The work on your build continues with its excellent quality - impressive for a first scratch build mate. Funny how those little 'errors' come back to bite; especially when you think you had it nailed. I have experienced a few of those. cheers Pat

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