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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Fantastic build mate, the display case with the backdrop is just what was needed for the final 'flourish'. cheers Pat
  2. Nice detail Keith; Eberhard has said it all. Your upper deck is certainly coming to life. cheers Pat
  3. Brian, as Keith says, who can challenge unless they have a 'wayback' machine. For my two cents worth though, but I have no experience with US ships at all, is that if the museum model has a red hull, then you would like to think they researched this properly? My leaning would then to be to follow the museum model (unless you are aware the model was not that well researched?) cheers Pat
  4. Hi guys thanks for looking in and I should have posted an update on what is happening. The lack of posts results from a few reasons, chiefly that after a 4 month hard ( I mean very very restrictive) lockdown here I had to put the model aside for a while to catch up on all the Spring/Summer chores and the 'honey please do' list At least the outcome of the lockdown has been great as we have all but eliminated any community transmission of covid for the time being. The other reasons being tied to RESEARCH (ugh, it is becoming a chore now ) I cannot progress the remaining deck furniture until I finalise the Rigging and Belaying Plans. I am about 25% into that. In the meantime the lower masts have been made and I will soon post an update on the 'tops' which are also of a very 'different design to those commonly seen, even in this era. Unfortunately analysis of the available imagery when compared with the Rigging Warrant results in a rigging and belaying plan that does not align with those offered by contemporary and other authors such as Kipping, Fincham, Underhill, Crothers, McKay etc. As such I am having to follow each line individually in a 'virtual' configuration to determine the likely rigging arrangement and belaying points such that they do not interfere with each other and conform with the imagery. One example being that unlike the options proffered by the authors, the topmast backstays were configured the opposite of the usual rigging practices in that the forward backstay was set-up as a breast (permanent not temporary) and the after set-up as a standing backstay (preventer) to a rigging screw in the channels. Anyway more on all of this as I get to grips with the rigging in the new year. Hopefully the new year will bring a return of the 'mojo' I need to complete this. cheers, and again, thanks for your interest Chuck and Keith. Pat
  5. Daniel, I don't comment in your log much anymore as I have run out of superlatives for your stunning workmanship and model. Seeing these regular updates is very inspirational and shows the level of quality and detail that can be achieved in a model. Have a safe festive break. Pat
  6. Sorry to hear of your tribulations Remco; especially in these times. Best of luck in finding new employment soon and that we see you back at the building table. cheers Pat
  7. Imagina, you are quite correct (from an RAN perspective anyway) - Not only to keep the fuel loading down, but also you would be surprised how heavy that paint is. The RAN collected the paint taken off one ship while in refit and the collective weight was considerable. The particular photo Greg showed may be the result of a couple of things. Firstly, the poor paint adhesion definitely shows poor surface preparation by the crew when 'pretty coats' were being applied (probably after a long deployment and to look good coming into harbour/home port). The other may be the result of a long refit (docking period) where the hull (paint) has yet to be addressed. In a long refit, the ship can be decommissioned, or 'handed over' out of navy control to the the dockyard. The dockyard will not waste time in keeping the paintwork looking pretty especially if it is contracted to provide the ship back in a fully restored condition, and this may be one of the last things done (rather than ruining good paintwork with welding, scrapes etc incurred during the refit). cheers Pat
  8. Keith, could the 'nuts' (with internal bars) also have been to allow easy removal/placement of the rails for maintenance/access to some of the mast/deck fittings? Very effective way of making those rails, another gem I will tuck away . This will be another 'gem' of a model. BTW, if you ever find a way to reduce that list created by your 'Admiral' let me know - I have to work on reducing mine also cheers Pat
  9. That is some nice etching Eberhard, how did you achieve the nice rounded rivet heads (or is that just 'photographic' perspective/contrast at work). They certainly made up nicely soldered together and look very effective in-situ. cheers Pat
  10. Love the history, and your 'anecdote' of the WW2 construction comparisons You will have perhaps the best made model keel to show for your efforts Love the wood BTW. cheers Pat
  11. Again for RN ships, but I am sure there will be an equivalent for the USN guns, the breeching rope sizes were tabulated and published. The following is from 'The Sea Gunner's Vade Mecum_Robert Simmons (1812)" cheers Pat
  12. Always the way Keith, when Murphy is on leave, Sod's law takes over I think you may be reasonably safe having thought it through; even if not, with your skills you always find a way to 'fix' it. cheers Pat
  13. Geez you have huge thumbnails Greg Nice work, that must have involved some intricate folding (and maybe a little cursing?)? cheers Pat
  14. Ditto Druxey, my challenges are completing the garboard and the planks on the round; once they are done the rest sort of fall into place (with a little gentle persuasion ) Looking good Steven! cheers Pat
  15. You are progressing very nicely Dick; your 'construction' looks good. If Basil Greenhill's book has depicted these accurately from archaeological evidence, rather than an interpretation, perhaps these upper timbers may have been cut from naturally occurring bent timbers rather than forcing them to shape? This would then allow for them to be bent in a single axis only. cheers Pat
  16. Nice jobs on those tracks Keith, I think your research has paid dividends for you. They look great, and if you hadn't pointed out the differences no one will have known. cheers Pat
  17. OK Keith, now you have done it - I am just going to crawl into the corner, sit there and drool. The detailing you are doing is top notch! cheers Pat
  18. You're doing some great work there Steven, it's difficult to keep within your specified need to retain some of the old look-and-feel while restoring the model, but you are doing a fine jo of it. cheers Pat
  19. Hi again D. As promised here are the photos which may give you an idea what to look for. Unfortunately, there is no brand or even makers name on it at all. I got this from a mate who bought them in a deal (he buys end of line lots, seconds etc). The twin LEDs in this one don't work unfortunately, but I really don't need them. The magnifier (yellow arrow) is very clear, bright and about 4x so I get a great magnification (may be even better as I may be a little underestimating the zoom/mag factor) of the viewing area (green arrow). I think it is set up in the factory to the scale you want. Mine is for mm, but there are three other scales around the sides but I have not tried to change it. As you can see you twist the knob to wind the pointer/needle (red arrow) with the screw being a very fine thread so lots of control. The whole 'kaboodle' folds and is stored in a pouch to protect it. When I next see my mate I will ask if he has any more. cheers Pat
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