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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Looking good Greg. What glue do you use to hold down those large strips of brass? cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    You are finding some very nice photos there Greg. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Thanks John and druxey, appreciate the input; I am leaning more and more towards grey cotton. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Thanks for all the kind remarks and encouragements guys; much appreciated. Steven, as commented by Eberhard, wood is a little difficult at this dimension - the letterbox panels are only 0.15mm thick. Wood, no matter how densely grained simply snaps when try to slot and stack them like this - believe me, I tried. Tony and John, you guys are tough taskmasters I have tried experimenting but yet to identify a way to do this successfully. Using fabric results in overly large and tattered (frayed edges). I am thinking a similar style to the hammocks may work in using a pvc rod core and perhaps silkspan or tissue, then paint. I am now being put in a corner (no more prevarication) where I HAVE to make a decision on whether to risk thin wire for the wirerope, or use silver coloured cotton. My concern is twofold with the wire, firstly it kinks easily and requires some tension on it to keep it looking straight and true. Secondly, by applying pressure to the wire, I am very concerned some of the very small parts (such as the Rigmaiden lanyard eyes) will not withstand the tension imparted on them. BUT, as I said, I need to make this decision soon as I have only one further task to complete before I can start on the rigging - creating templates for PE to form the parts of the iron hounds and trestletrees. Here is the start of the jibboom - the outer spiderband which is only 2mm ID. The sharp eyed may note the double lug on the bottom which is formed to accept a long link between them. I am using a jig a friend of mine suggested/deigned for me. It is made of aluminium to stop the solder sticking. I didn't take photos while this one was made (experimenting) but will show the process etc when I do the next one. Still a bit of cleaning up of the hole in the neck of the jibboom where I drilled the hole for the Royal Stay cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Hi again folks. I have continued to make some slow progress, and even a start on some of the spars as shown in the following. First up was the inclusion of a flag locker. This is not shown on the sheer drawing or in any photo/lithograph but will have been essential. The 'pidgeon holes' were made up from interlocking brass PE (from Scale Warships). I then framed it with thin (.8mm ) wood. While the top looks high, please note the bulwarks were only 2' 9" high. I formed the top as a sort of chart table. I am also considering making up a similar locker on the other side to stow the patent log (Massey style towed harpoon log), navigation equipment, signal lamps etc. Not sure about that yet. I also noted (not visible to naked eye but stands out in photo) I need to clean up the bottom edge of the locker. I then added the stern davits I had previously made up. I have also now put the bowsprit, with its cap and rigging in place. there are two small cheek blocks used rather than 'bees' in this era. The chain gammoning is in place and I have used a copper 'scotsman' to protect the boom from the chain. Although the Specification called for the bowsprit shrouds (guys) to be fitted to 'iron knees in the knee of the head' I have run these as they appear in the photograph. I have used iron knees hardly discernible against the black hull, and their location above and abaft the hawsehole conforms with the general practice of the time and provides the necessary spread either side to properly 'guy' the bowsprit. The Martingale is also in place, along with cap horns for the manropes which will be added later. The rigging screws are scratch built from 1.2mm brass tubes with a small brass eye soldered into each end. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    That looks really good Rob, and you work so quickly with the plating. That would take me a couple of weeks. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Hi Steven, for fly tying threads do a quick search online as there are a couple of decent fly fishing sites online that are quite helpful once you call. I cannot remember the name but there is one guy based just out of Geelong that may be handy enough? cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Nice work Greg, Noting how 'flimsy' these parts can be, you have done very well to avoid any distortions in the inner parts of each frame. The completed (so far) set looks impressive. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Looks nice in-situ Mark, NO make that very nice. The 'Oberon' submarine trophy raises all sorts of imagination - underwater yacht racing? - yacht that shipped the most water? or are you 'Neutral Bay based? cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    I like it Brian, not so 'in-your-face' as bright red. It is closer to a darker wood colour and provides good definition. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Henry (you or the staffy? Nice work, you are getting some really nice definition on these deadeyes, especially the 2mm ones.. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Good progress Steven. yeah, we believe you, we really do cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Hi Steven what CA were you using? Often I find the types used by many modellers just don't want to work that well with some media. I have had good results with Locktite versions. May be worth a try (can get them at Bunnings) cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    So your found an awfully big ruler too...clever lad! Seriously though Steven, that deadeye is almost microscopic; and I thought I was working small stuff. Nice work. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    So you thought you would sneak another past me .... ha! caught you out. What an interesting build Greg, this will a nice one to follow along with. BTW what brand/type is that 'visor' in the second last photo of post #16 above cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Thanks Grant, another great find. I wonder if/when someone will write a new book on the development/transition of building techniques based on this new evidence coming to light. With the many new finds in recent years, it would be great to see old texts updated to reflect the new material. (.... and no, I couldn't do it as I do not have the right skill set :)) I often wonder when I pick up an older reference book, whether some of the material needs an update. A simple check of te internet often is insufficient unless you know exactly where to look. Many of the sites where the info is stored requires paid subscription, and one can only afford to pay subscriptions a limited number of sites unfortunately. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Hi Keith, purely from an 'ergonomic' point-of-view, getting in and out of the hatch, yet alone loading anything through it would have been problematic without removing the barrel of the windlass. With the barrel fitted, there would not have been much head/access room above it for about half the hatch opening as best I can see? Then as pointed out, the mechanics of the windlass are seriously affected by placing barrel axle higher up (leverage alone as the sailors were not very tall mostly). Filling the hatch is neither here-nor-there I think, as people did not have to step on it to work the windlass. The barrel could be rotated with longer staves a little further outboard from the centreline. Hope this clarifies, from my perspective at least, Keith? cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Coming along really nicely Dave; very clean and crisp work. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    You select some very fascinating subjects to model Steven - missed the start, but it seems you have made a very good start. Any room left in the front row? cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Tom, as I offered in my first post, I think it is higher than usual due to its placement so close to the hatch. Once the windlass barrel is added etc, some additional clearance may have needed to allow the hatch to be used effectively? A bit of a long draw of the 'bow string' but... cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Hi Brian; wow! looks great. If it is only the edges of the planking in the cutaway area, I say go for it. As you say, it will highlight the area and differentiate between the planking and framing (which look in natural timber). cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    The suite of sails look great; good effort on perservering with the broken yards. If you are staying with the glue on method Steven, perhaps put some clear 'contact' over the template which will stop the glue sticking to the paper? cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Initial thought is they look like the standards for a windlass? A little high though but that could be due to the close proximity of the hatch under them. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Thanks Steven - awfully big matches you have (are they the BBQ long ones?) Seriously though, you are making great progress and those sails look great. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Very nice joinery Dave; especially on those complicated joints. Are you using experience (eye balling) the cuts or using a jig? cheers Pat

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