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DocBlake

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Everything posted by DocBlake

  1. I finished up the build board. I had some beautiful curly bird'seye maple so I cut off a piece and framed it with some rounded over 1/2" X 1/2" east Indian rosewood. It turned out pretty nice!
  2. Thanks, guys! Michael: I think it's because I have a short attention span and get easily bored!
  3. Most of the framing including the hull and deck framing is made of cherry. It's too bad that so much of it will be covered up, but it isn't expensive and it was just easier to cut the parts all at the same time from a limited number of billets, seen or not! The hull framing is 3/4" thick, actually 3/4" WIDE on the model. After CNC cutting, you can see that each piece is held in the 3/4" billet by 2 tiny triangular tabs (arrows). Very easy to remove and clean up the frames. I worked on those while the build board was drying (I glued a rosewood border around a beautiful piece of curly bird's eye maple I had). I also scribed scarfs in the two end frames as well as simulated bolts. I then gave these two a wipe of boiled linseed oil to even out the color.
  4. After a lot of prep work getting the plans into a form CNC and laser could utilize, a prototype was built of basswood and poplar. The point here wasn't to have a perfect model, but rather to proof the plans and our dimensions and make sure the pieces all fit! We will obviously clean up the laser char on the finished models. The hull frames were CNC cut from 3/4" stock. The treenails are surface etched, but deep enough to allow finish sanding and still be visible. We plan to leave the laser char in between planks to simulate tar.
  5. This will be my build log for a 17th century Royal Navy Battle Station. The station is loosely modeled after a 4th rate ship of the line, HMS Mordaunt, launched in 1681. It is based on the excellent plans drawn by Jeff Staudt, and the model kit itself is one of three produced in collaboration with two modeling friends. I'll be adding background information and details on research and development of the kits is as the build proceeds. Here is a reprint of the message I posted when I received my kit:
  6. I’m glad you got your plans. I’m frankly surprised by AL’s rapid response. That’s not the reputation the generaly have, at least from my experience. Glad it worked out well. Yes, post a log!
  7. Excellent work, Elijah! That is about the best approximation of a weathered wooden boat I have seen! Fantastic job. Your metal work and guns look great, too. BTW: It was nice meeting you at Manitowoc in May. Hopefully I'll see you there next year.
  8. Ken and Lou: Another option for the transom: An aftermarket fix for the horrible stamped metal transom and quarter badges that come with the kit! I spend a fair amount of time rebuilding these areas, and while I'm happy with the results, this would have made the job far easier. Only $10.00! The transom piece is reversible so you don't have to use the name "Independence". Available at http://traintroll.com./ Quarter badge windows included! Well worth it if you plan to build this model!
  9. The planking is looking good Lou. The only way to do it is just do it! The first planking will teach you a lot about how the screwy hull shape wants to take the second planking!
  10. In looking through my copy of Goodwin's book "The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War ,1650-1850" , I found that late 17th century British ships had a scarf in the framing at the weather deck level and bolts holding the futtocks together. I plan to replicate that for a build I'm starting. My question is how big would the bolt head have been? Goodwin doesn't say, and I couldn't find an answer in Steel's book either. The image is from Goodwin's book.
  11. I'm in! I was involved in a 1:24 scale long boat project a few years back. It was a group build. The project got scrapped when the CAD guy drawing the plans died unexpectedly. Hopefully we'll have none of that with this build!
  12. I’ve a lot of things underway but I’m interested: especially if templates are provided. I’d opt for scratch built!
  13. The carronades for the upper deck are cast metal, and are the same design as currently in use on the real ship. These were introduced during the 1927 refit of the Constitution and are not original to the ship. I opted to rebuild them in the style used for the British 36 pound carronade dubbed "the Smasher". I plan a minimalist approach (no rigging or fittings) because of the small scale. The wood is better than cast metal, anyway. I also completed the woldings on the stub mast.
  14. A great project would be a stern section including a great cabin, magazine, light room and filling room in a larger scale, say 1:32
  15. Thanks, Ken! The fashion pieces caused a lot of heartburn! They form a compound angle so carving them from a single piece of wood would be difficult. Sculpey wouldn't look right, so here's what I did. I installed the taffrail and simply made the fashion piece in 3 pieces, each one onforming to one of the planks between the wales and running back to the taffrail and the counter. Turned out OK. Here's a photo and I link to how I did the windows.
  16. Clare's build was the inspiration for my Independence kit-bash. It's a good resource. Planking pictures, Ken?
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