DocBlake

The paint looks good, David.  I can't paint worth a damn...it's why I generally build with natural wood only!

Welcome, Daniel!

Tedious, but worth it.  Great job on the rigging thus far!

Beautiful job on the interior.  Can't wait to see more!

I'm placing the simulated bolts on the frames.  I made them by using a Dremel tool to push them through the appropriate hole in my Byrnes draw plate.  I dyed them black and glued them in place.  They are about 1-3/8" scale diameter - visible but not too overbearing.  I think they look good!

Good job on the planking, Elijah!

Fantastic job. Don.  A first-class model!

Thanks for the link, Zoltan.  Some awesome stuff at that website.

Model  Expo has a 1/24 smooth bore cannon kit, 18th century, that looks to be a 9 pounder.  I don't need the kit, just the barrels (2).  Who can I contact to see if they would be willing to sell me just 2 barrels?  Would work great on my Triton section.

I decided to add the scarf joint that appears on the keel plan for the full Triton build.  Was that scarf held together by bolts or treenails?  In his Cheerful build, Chuck has a vertical scarf in the keel held together with treenails.  I've already decided the futtocks will be bolted together with dark treenails representing the bolts.

Here's what's been keeping me out of the shipyard for the last weeks.  Our 25 year old cedar deck finally succumbed to rot and had to be removed.  We did that and rebuild the decking and railing.  I'm at a standstill while I wait for special ordered lumber, so it's back to modeling!

Great work, Don!  I just picked up a Domonoff ropewalk myself.  I'll be very interested in your experiences with it.  Have you decided what color to dye the running rigging?

That is awesome, Bob.  I did a lot of interior work on my Lauck Street Armed Virginia Sloop "Patrick Henry".  It was by far my favorite part of the build!

Very nice, Jon...thanks for the update!

I'd replace the metal with pear, red heart or bloodwood.

Very nice, David!  I like the look.  Here's another way to handle those metal castings on ship models.  The explanation starts at 2:30:    

I needed deadeyes in an odd size because of the scale of the ship.  I also wanted them black.  6mm would be 9" in scale diameter.  That would work.  Mike Shanks, using his CNC, cut a bunch of them out of swiss pear that are 6.5mm in diameter.  The only problem is that there was no way to cut the grooves along the circumference.  I did that by hand, and sanded the deadeyes smooth.  Then I dyed them black.   The photo shows the raw deadeyes and the finished product.  they still need to be coated with tung oil.  The second photo shows the remade deadeyes compared to the stock ones supplied with the kit.  They are a bit bigger.  Perfect!

Good to know.  I'm working on a 1/24 scale Triton cross section that needs 2 nine pounders.  I'm not sure that I want to turn them!

Nice job, JP.

What size cannon does this represent.  Looking at the size compared to the bulwarks, I'd guess a 9 pounder?

Full ship, Don.  She'll be big!  Fully masted and rigged, about 50" long.  Built admiralty style with stub masts and sprit, about 33" long!

Beautiful job, Ken.

Thanks Don and Clare!  Mike is experimenting with his laser and CNC router.  Our plan is to build a 1/24 scale "Hannah" with CNC cut frame parts.  Interesting stuff!

After a lot of thought I decided to include quarter badge windows.  This is a small, simple ship so I opted out of all the elaborate carving and went with a simple 4 pane light that Mike Shanks cut out for me in boxwood.  I took a cue from Dr. Clayton Feldman in his "Lexington" build and added a curved rain diverter and sill, both of which stand proud of the window.  Simple molding strips form the sides of the framing.  All these parts are of ebony.

Great method...great results!  Keep it up, Elijah.