DocBlake

Links, guys??

I've got a question.  Was the very top of the topmast ever painted/stained black on a ship from the colonial period?  I photoshopped a picture of my masts to show what I'm talking about.  I think the contrast would look good, but I'm not sure if this was ever done.

I just heard back from Daniel Dusek.  He's acquired the rights to Mamoli properties (not Constructo), and the rigging and belaying plans are from the Mamoli model.  He was gracious enough to send me a .pdf copy for free, as long as it's for my personal, non-commercial use.  The plans are TINY, but you can enlarge them in a .pdf reader or have  enlarged hard copies made at FedEx.  There are 6 sheets of plans in total, and the cost to enlarge all six of them on 17" X 24" paper was $14.19, tax included!

Bob: Daniel asks that I not distribute the file directly, but that you email him personally to request a copy if you'd like one.  His email is the same as his website's:  contact@dusekshipkits.com

I just purchased some.  The scale is right for stays and shrouds at the larger scales I prefer.

I feel your pain.  I don't like anything about fitting a rudder in place!

Very nice work on the masts.  A beautiful model, Bill!

Excellent job, Bob.  This will be a beautiful model.

Mark: You can bleach wood (I've done it in the past).  The problem is that the end result is somewhat unpredictable.  With dark woods especially, but I suspect even holly and maple won't "bleach true" and will come out splotchy.  Do a test on the maple and see what you get.

Kurt: Good point about the spalting.

I completed and installed the rails, the catheads, the timberheads, the quarterdeck ladders and the timbers that define the gun ports.  The only major parts left on the hull (except for cleats, eyebolts etc.) are the channels, the swivel gun mounts and the quarterdeck and poopdeck railings.  The masts are done.  Once the spars are made it's on to rigging.

This looks very promising, but unless you're building in 1/24 or 1/12 scale, only sizes 6 9 and 12 are likely to be useful.  Smaller diameters are needed.

Thanks, Carl!

Carl:  That would be incredibly helpful!  How can I contact Daniel Dusek?  I'd be willing to purchase his rigging plans of they include a belaying diagram.

Bob:  Hopefully we can figure out the rigging!  I'll contact Clare Hess and see if he can shed any more light on the belaying.  He is currently rigging the same vessel I'm building, which is really nearly identical to Halifax!

Martin and Bob:  I agree with the scale issues.  I've vowed never to try anything in 1/64 scale at all!  I'm starting a Triton cross section in 1/24 scale, and I completed an AVS in 1/32 scale.  Even Independence is 5/16" scale!  The larger scales are easier on the eyes, and allow for more detail.

I'm glad you're still with us, Brian!

Thanks for the input, guys.

Mike:  I'm looking forward to seeing what you can doo with your new tools!

Very nice work, Bob.  I'll watch this build with interest!

I'm building AL's "Independence" which is a colonial schooner like "Halifax".  I'm planning to use the Halifax rigging plan from my Lauck Street Halifax kit to rig the Independence.  The problem is that there is no belaying diagram.  Are you aware of a belaying plan for Halifax?

Thanks, Michael!

Michael:  The plans have a rigging diagram, but no belaying diagram.  Have you been able to locate one, or are you going to forgo rigging the ship?  I'm building AL's "Independence" and plan to use the Halifax rigging scheme for the model.

Very nice work.  I have the LSS Halifax kit in my queue, also.  I may not live long enough to finish it!

As you can see, I fit the taffrail to the model.  I've been thinking about a name.  I don't want "Independence" for a number of reasons, so I decided on "Clio".  Clio was the Muse of History, one of the 9 Muses in Greek Mythology.  There were three British naval vessels called HMS Clio, one launched in 1807, the second in 1858, and the third in 1903.  My schooner is circa 1765, about 40 years earlier than the earliest British vessel..  I think the name is historically appropriate.  In the photo, I simply typed the name "Clio" using New Times Roman font on a black background and sized it appropriately.  The final "Plaque" with the name is 1/4" high by 11/16" wide.  The problem is that the white "Clio" is kind of muddied in the computer printout, and the background black is actually gray.  I have two questions:

1) What do you think of the name "Clio" for this vessel?

2) Is there a way I can have a tiny laser engraved plaque or 3-D printed placque with the letters in relief so I can paint my own white and black to give me a clearer name plate?  Shapeways does 3-D printing, but I don't do CAD!

Any progress, Brian?

Great job on those frames!

Thanks, Bill!

I've been working on some smaller, fiddly things.  I glued the cap rails to the bulwarks, staining only the edges.  I need to attach the various parts to it before staining the rails black.  I completed the timberheads and the upright timbers that sit on the rail and frame the gun ports.  I also tried to blacken the brass mast hoops that came with the kit.  For some reason, I couldn't get them to come out right and they looked terrible on the masts!  What to do?

I came up with a solution courtesy of Gene Bodnar ( here's a link to the webpage that explains his technique:  http://www.modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?4024 )

Basically find a dowel of the proper size and wrap a few turns of waxed paper around it and secure the wax paper with tape/  Cut out a piece of brown grocery bag paper as wide as the space between the tape and coat it with white glue using your fingers.  Carefully roll the paper around the waxed paper-coated dowel, making sure to smooth the wrinkles as well as possible.  5 or 6 turns around the dowel should work.  When dried 24 hours a I put a coat of water based poly on the surface to harden it.  I removed the roll from the dowel (the waxed paper keeps it from sticking) and cut thin hoops from the role.  I carefully removed the inner waxed paper from inside each hoop and gently sanded the outside surfaces.  I coated heach hoop with Dull Kote lacquer to darken and harden each hoop.  The photo shows the hoops on the mast.  I think they look pretty good, resembling wooden mast hoops!  Better than the corroded appearing brass rings from the kit.

Very nice, Greg.  Everything looks great.  Your planking turned out well.  If there are errors, only you will see them!  Good job!