DocBlake

Very nicely done, Bob!

Great job on the boat, Jon!

Sorry to hear it, Bob.  I know you'll recover without missing a beat!  Keep at it!

Thanks, Don!

Historically, the futtocks would have been bolted together to produce the frames.  What would the correct diameter of the bolts be?  May best estimate from research I've done is somewhere between 1" and 1-1/2".  Any thoughts?  Also, would it make sense to mark the locations of the deck clamps and gunport sills etc. on the frames prior to glueup?

Thanks David and Scott!  More to come.  Next up are swiss pear deadeyes dyed black to simulate ebony.  The channels will be boxwood with a molded edge.  I'm also planning to add quarter badge windows of boxwood to contrast with the pear planking.  Mike Shanks is instrumental in all of this.  Stay tuned!

I've been busy.  We are replacing our cedar deck and we spent a week in California (the Bay area) since my last post.  I haven't been doing a lot of modeling at all.  I did want to rename this schooner "Clio" after the Muse of History in Greek mythology.  My friend Mike Shanks was able to laser etch some ebony I had on hand.  I then painted the etched name using white acrylic paint.  Sanding the face with a 220 grit sanding block took care of any excess paint on the name plate.  I then glued the name to the transom.

Great job!  I have the LSS Halifax, and I hope I can do it half the justice you have.  Chuck's rope is great, isn't it?!

 Great progress!  This is a fun build to watch!

Beautiful, Ken!

Great job on the boats!

Bob, I really like the boxwood for the bulwark planking.  Nicely done.

Nice job, David.  Don't sell yourself short.  You have all the skills necessary to keep the model natural and not paint .  All you need is an assortment of woods.  I have used yellowheart in the past for the ochre effect, but it's falling out of my favor.  I plan to use boxwood for the outer bulwarks of my 1/24 Triton cross section - to substitute what would have been painted ochre.  Bob Hunt's practicum for "Rattlesnake uses boxwood also.  Crown timber can supply in in the dimensions you would need.

Beautiful job David!  I'm sure your Rattlesnake will be first rate.  Do you have a log started?

Nice work.

I, too, thought about adding the mast, well and shot locker, but the cross section plans for the decks have been modified from the full build and won't work.  This project was designed as an intro to scratch building, so necessarily simplified.

Very impressive work on the ship's boats.

Looks great!  You're near the finish line!

Outstanding. Bob!  The holly below the wales will look awesome.  I did that with my "Independence " build, but the contrast on your model will be really dramatic, given the hull's cherry frames.  Good choice!  Do you plan on limiting the holly to just one strake, or maybe several on one side of the hull only?

Very nicely done!

Great job on the transom!  Love the color choices.

That stern turned out great!  Good job, Bob.

Beautiful!

Great progress.  She's really coming along.

Just found this log.  I will be following with interest!

Oil based wiping varnishes tend to add "warmth" to the wood.  Water based poly leaves the wood "cold" looking, especially darker wood like cherry and walnut.  I use water based only with very light woods like maple and birch.  It dries crystal clear,  while an oil based finish typically has an amber cast to it.