DocBlake

I’m partial to colonial schooners also.  I am working on “Independence “ now, and I have the LSS Halifax in the queue.  I’m planning a scratch built  “Hannah”in 1:24 scale also.  All schooners all the time!  Nice job on this build, Michael!

Maury:  Nice job on this build!  

I’m wondering what the historical rationale was for serving the anchor rings?

David:  A question.  The model's display stand looks like the kit supplied cradle painted black.  Did you pin the hull to the cradle or is it free to move?  Any effect on the rigging process if the hull isn't attached?

Great job on the boats!  I'll have to read Bob's description of the mounting system, but I like your modification, Jonathan.

Thanks Bob!

If you email Daniel Dusek (who owns the rights to Mamoli's plans) He'll send you a copy of the very detailed Mamoli rigging plans for Halifax.  He sent me a copy but asks that I not forward it to anyone, but rather request it directly from him.  It is in Italian (of course) but is very detailed.  contact@dusekshipkits.com

Good to see you start rigging, Bob!  I've been waiting (so I can copy your work! - I'm THAT shameless  ).  What size are the heart and deadeyes on the sprit?

Nice job on the limber boards.

Great start, Cliff!  I'll be watching this one with interest.

I find this impossible to do with a pin vise.  I bought a Dremel drill press setup for my Dremel tool and it worked like a a charm.  I can drill #77 holes with ease.  Costs about $48 but you can find non-Dremel brands for cheaper that will work with a Dremel tool.

Thanks guys!  David: I kind of like the Prince de Neufchâtel ways.  It’s a model expo kit and they usually include instructions and options to purchase plans at the website.  I can’t find the model there at all.  Is it out of production? Do you have downloaded instructions?

Thanks, guys.  I’m looking for plans for launching ways to exhibit the model.  Any one know of a good resource?

I’ll second the comments on grain direction, although if the grain is transverse and the matching futtock is longitudinal, the frame should be strong; it’ll look better with longitudinal grain, however.

Great job on the deck details, Charlie!  She’s coming along nicely.

Don:  Your response makes perfect sense.  I think blocks should be stropped in dark line because they probably were (tarred to protect against the elements) and because I think they look better!  How’s that for a historic perspective?!

I finished the swivel gun supports.  Classically these would have been painted black, but I made them out of boxwood and kind of like the look.  For the metal reinforcing bands at the top, I cut a shallow kerf in all 4 sides and CA'd some black rigging thread in the kerf.  I used the same technique to make the cannon reinforcing rings in my Battle Station model.  Two HO gauge railroad spikes were glued in to simulate bolts holding the supports in place.  I only did six supports, 3 per side, leaving off the last ones on the poop deck and the two in the fo'c'sle.  The deck and rails are getting crowded!

The supports need poly and the bulwark planking needs to be touched up.  I scraped the poly off the planking before gluing the supports in place.

I'll be looking in too, Derek!

I going to have to try that cleaning method, Don.  Building cases for models is not my idea of fun!

Great stuff, Greg!

I feel your pain, David.  She's looking good, though!

Thanks, Greg!

Cliff:  What brand of liver of sulfur did you buy?  What about shelf life issues?

Cliff:  I asked that question about bolts in the keel scarphs in my Triton log:  Were the scarphs bolted or tree nailed?  If bolted, copper bolts wouldn’t be strong enough and iron would corrode.  What do you think?  I decided to treenail.

Great progress.  Very clean and precise work, Mike.

Awesome, Don!  I really like the sails.  Great job on a very interesting model.

Thanks to all for the kind comments and the "likes".

I just returned from the NRG conference and I made an interesting discovery in the Exhibit Hall.  An aftermarket fix for the horrible stamped metal transom and quarter badges that come with the kit!  I spend a fair amount of time rebuilding these areas, and while I'm happy with the results, this would have made the job far easier.  Only $10.00!

The transom piece is reversible so you don't have to use the name "Independence".  Available at traintroll.com.  Quarter badge windows included!

Well worth it if you plan to build this model!