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DocBlake

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  1. Please post more!  I have the bulkheads, profile former and wood package from the Lumberyard also.  I was looking over the practicum, and according to Dr. Feldman, the profile former (central keel) is supposed to be 1/8" thick, and the boxwood stem, keel and stern post 3/16" thick.  The difference allows for a 1/32" "rabbet" on each side that doesn't have to be cut.  My center keel is 3/16", not 1/8".  Did you have the same problem, and if so, how did you solve it?

     

    Dave

  2. Progress so far:  The bulkheads and filler have been glued in place and the hull faired.  Any voids filled with wood filler.  I performed the major surgery on Bulkhead 12, removing it.  the counter has been formed, and the inside of the transom hollowed out.  Next is to place the external transom plywood.  Pictures show the counter ans the hollowed out transom wood.  Jonathan:  Did you do anything to the hollowed out area.  I'd like to panel it, or fit an upholstered bench across the span, as might have been done in the real vessel.

     

    Dave

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  3. I lofted the bearding line and the rabbet, cut off the stem, the keel and the stern post.  I then cut the rabbbet.  Next is gluing up the bulkheads.  Every one is loose and will have to be shimmed, and most fall too far into the slot on the center keel and have to be shimmed there also.  The only good news is that the center keel and bulkheads are all plywood, and are uinlikely to break.  Fairing may be an issue, though.

     

    Dave

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  4. I've been studying the practicum and the Hahn plans, and I finally couldn't stand it any more.  I had to cut some wood!  So I built the new stem and cut out the stern post.  The center keel contains the stem, true keel and stern post.  When glued up, these will be removed by cutting along the rabbet line.  The two photos show the rabbet line.  The practicum calls for transferring the bearding line from th Hahn plans to the center keel.  Where is the bearding line on the Hahn plans?  I'm stumped!

     

    Dave

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  5. Almost finished.   Only the anchors left to rig.  I was concerned that my rope coils at the bow were too long, but if I made them shorter, I couldn't get them to bend and lay naturally.  They "stuck out" almost straight from the rail.  I added a shot of a 5'6" sailor standing nearby.  i don't think the scale is terrible.  Any thoughts? I think the riding bit rope coils look OK.

     

    I read about a technique using shrink wrap tubing on models for straps, bands etc.  I tried it on my anchors and it worked great.  Just cut to the right width, slide the resulting rings onto  the anchor stock in their proper positions and head in a 300 degree oven for about 3 minutes,  The tubing comes in various sizes and is cheap.  Another great use would be the iron reinforcement rings on the mast.  

     

    I'll post finished shots when the anchors are rigged.

     

    Dave

     

    BTW:  Anyone have a good technique for getting rid of the "fuzzies", especially on the tan rigging?  Dilute white glue?

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  6. Jon:  I bought the kit and the wood package about 1-1/2 years ago.  I purchased all of Bob Hunt's practica for a flat fee and fell in love with the Rattler.  I'm just finishing the Armed Virginia Sloop using a Hunt practicum also.  As for Hobby Mill, Jeff is now retiring, and not accepting new orders.  He used to supply lumber for Bob's kits, but Bob has been out of the kit business for a few years now, although he has started producing a POF Armed Virgia Sloop at 3/8" = 1" scale.  It looks like a winner.

     

      http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/avskit.htm

     

    Going forward I plan to mill my own lumber with my Byrnes saw and a home-made thickness sander.

     

     

     

    Dave

  7. I used yellow heart, bloodwood, rosewood, cherry, holly, African blackwood and some maple on my AVS.  All relatively tight grained with minimal pores.  If you get some nice rosewood, you'll never use walnut again on a model!  Check my thread  in the kit log forum:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6998-armed-virginia-sloop-by-docblake/

     

    Dave

  8. I used Bob's practicum on my AVS and it was very helpful.  Obviously it's designed for someone who's not had a ton of experience (me)!  The Practicum for the Rattlesnake is manditory for the kitbashed version I'm planning.You can buy all the various Practica as a package for $200.  This will allow you to use them for multiple vessels, including a scratch built "Hannah".  Here's a link:  http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/

     

    Here are some shots of the model under construction from the Practicum:

     

     

     

    Dave

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  9. I'm just finishing up the rigging on my Armed Virginia Sloop   For my next project I plan to build  a kit-bashed version of the Mamoli "Rattlesnake" based on the Lauck Street practicum.  I'm starting to do some research and prep work now.  This will be my build log.

     

     

     

     

    I plan to show some exposed frames on the starboard side as well as all the other mods Bob has added in his practicum.  I do not anticipate fully rigging the ship, either leaving stub masts, admiralty style, or finish the masts up to the tops.

     

     

     

     

     

    I have the Mamoli kit and the Hobby Mill wood package.  Today I had the Hahn plans reduced to 74%.  Two copies cost $35 at Fed Ex/Kinko's.  I hope to begin posting progress soon.

     

     

     

     

     

    Dave

     

     

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