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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. I've stained those 'bargain' blocks with Fiebing's Leather Dye.. I'm satisfied with results.. You can see I ended up with some variation, but i think that image is light overall, because my rope is darker than seen in the image. Just a note, based on another user's experience. If you use shellac on the rope and block after it is in place, the dye can leach out into the rope..
  2. Thanks for sharing. Last visited in 2001 with my son.
  3. Besides being very high quality, your blocks are very competitively priced. Any chance they are being re-sold?
  4. Is there good reason to believe Victory's pillars would have been replaced between 1765 and 1805? ( I am still looking for some apropos examples )
  5. Just to keep the discussion going. Here is a draught of " 'Dorsetshire' (1757) Scale: 1:48. Plan showing the capstans, lanterns, turned columns, A snip from that drawing. Did someone not follow the 1750 establishments? 😁 Medea 1778 One More: Prudent 1768 . The shading would seem to indicate the centers are turned. P.S. I realize, without further evidence, we cannot assume the ship was built as drawn.
  6. Chamfering the corners would not reduce the square diameter from 16" to 13". Besides, you would now have an octagon and not a square. Are octagonal pillars described anywhere for these ships? Are "square" pillars found in any contemporary drawings? This is an illustration from " Navy Board Ship models". Of course it doesn't prove anything about Victory during the time in question, however in the absence of contemporary drawings to the contrary, I think McKay's opinion is as good as any. P.S. Here is an illustration from Lavery of " Early 19th Century First Rate " .. I guess those pillars could be square, but they don't give that impression.
  7. Allan, Do you know for a fact that Steel, in giving the square dimensions, that they were not rounded in any segment? Making them 'square' in the middle would have been a lot more work than rounding them off with the given dimensions. Just a thought.
  8. Round Abrasive Cord The linked item is ~.457mm They have a variety of sizes.
  9. The AOTS Blandford also shows double + single for 6 pounders. I guess Goodwin didn't read Caruana.😁 Lavery in " The Arming and Fitting, etc... " .. without regard to caliber. Takakjian in AOTS 'Essex' shows double + single for 12 pounder. Was Caruana's data part of the establishments? Did armorers always follow this practice? Double + single has become a modeling convention, particularly with kits, and most builders will never be shown anything to the contrary until after they have done all the work. ( ....hours of fiddly work. ) I agree with Thukydides that the aesthetics come into play with ship models, in many areas that are contrary to contemporary full size practice. With that said, Thukydides, your Alert sets a high standard in ship modeling. I apologize if I have cluttered up your log with this distraction.
  10. When you say " how", do you mean tools and methods, or just design? Lees shows a lower mast from 1773 to 1800. Note the sections. Mondfeld shows the cross section of a made mast, but there would be little point and somewhat challenging, in trying trying to model this type of construction, unless you wanted to score some lines along the mast to to represent the pieces used. For more details you could get a copy of James Lees The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860 or Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld. The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships by Longridge is also a good modeling reference for Victory.
  11. How long does that cedar stay aromatic? One of my favorite scents...
  12. Do you have any links for the YouTube tutorials for Fusion360 based on the drawings in this book. I could not find any. All the videos I see are for AutoCAD The book says: In fact, it provides no instructions at all for using the interface of Fusion360 It is just a collection of CAD drawings with the dimensions. It really does not look very useful for learning Fusion 360.
  13. Good find.. looks interesting. Here is a three pack at Amazon for $8.99 I saw one for as little as $2.99 , but delivery takes a bit longer.
  14. Allan, Of interest also, the contemporary drawings earlier in the discussion show one piece and no bolts.
  15. This is interesting in that the trucks are often depicted with bolts, which wouldn't be necessary if there was only one piece. Here is a truck from Victory with two pieces bolted together. However I have seen other carriages from Victory with the trucks being one piece and no bolts. I realize the current Victory carriages are probably mostly modern reconstructions.
  16. The shields on the side depicts simplified Coats of Arms. Google tells me they may have been derived from any number of countries. The flags may just be whimsical creations of the artist.
  17. Terry, My tutorials would be more of a " what not to do " when developing laser patterns.. My experience has been real hit and miss before there was much expertise available. I enjoy making the stuff I do, and my tools and workflow have improved, but I don't want to compete with the pros. The logistics are a bit challenging, and it needs to remain fun for me. I am always open to helping a fellow MSW member with a 1-off project if my skills and their needs can find a common ground. Gregory
  18. Hi Rob B, FWIW, Mamoli kits do not come with a separate parts list. All the information is documented on the plan sheets. Sometimes there is a color chart for the wood on the inside of the box, but as you can imagine it may not be much help. Your best guide is the measurement of the wood, and the quantity, which can be loosely matched to the amount called for. It is a bit of a challenge, particularly with a large kit like Victory.
  19. Have you checked out LightBurn! They have an unrestricted 30 day trial. One of the powerful tools is a bitmap trace that I found a lot easier and more powerful than Inkscape. Greatest of all is you can have many layers. Each with it's own power and speed setting. You can control the order the layers will cut or engrave, or you can choose a layer to not cut at all. When I first started using it, it was like I had a new, more powerful laser.
  20. Update: I originally tried one of the Atomstack brand 10w machines looking to save quite a bit. but really wasn't happy with the build quality or the performance. However, if you want to stay in a lower price range it shood be adequate. I was able to return it and I bought the Xtool 10w machine, which I upgraded to 20w and have been using for over a year now. The working area is 432 X 406mm but I believe there are bed extensions available. modeller_masa may be able to tell you more about a larger work area. Getting a 40w machine will put you in the $2,000 range, but if that is in your budget, I can only recommend the Xtool brand because I haven't had any experience with other brands. I also recommend you get a Honeycomb worktable and the air-assist feature. Some type of exhaust system is also a must have regardless of the laser power. I also highly recommend Lightburn software to drive the laser. It provides a very powerful and versatile interface. If I can answer any more questions, I will do my best.
  21. I'll get back to you later. Just saw this and will get back to you with particulars. I know it is Xtool brand. I really like Xtool compared to some of the cheaper brands..
  22. I would enjoy seeing something relatively simple like a Longboat. The steps learned could be easily applied to a more elaborate design.
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