Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Great Photo Etched Saw Blades
Gregory replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
What is the actual name of the tool for the purpose of searching on Amazon? -
OK, my mistake. The word " pen " did not compute for me.. I haven't actually tried the pens, but I don't see them as a useful modeling tool. I have small cans of stain that I bought ten or more years ago.
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My experience with them is that they are just wax crayons.. They work up to a point, but I think you would do better to work with some of the original stain.
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You might look at some of the Cheerful logs, as well as Chuck's instructions, available on the Syren website. Chuck references several sources, including the contemporary model. There are several contemporary models in the gallery. You are doing a great job.. Don't get bogged down in minutiae..
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- vanguard models
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What are the dimensions of your brass piece? Do you plan on using the outside of the frame, and just replace the small square panes?
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Looks really great, and makes me feel better about not getting much done in the last few months.
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Calculating rope thickness (Fictional ship)
Gregory replied to Harry12's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Harry12, I wouldn't be obsessed with precisely following the establishments for 17th century ship rigging. There is always the rule of " what looks good, is good " .. Take a look at some of the contemporary models in the gallery here.. Gallery of Contemporary Models from Museums and Private Collections Try to maintain a sense of proportion. The standing rigging will be heavier on larger masts, and will get smaller the higher up on the masts. For the running rigging; heavier on the larger yards, and getting lighter as it goes higher. The rat lines are probably the smallest ropes, and something modelers often make too large. I like to go to Chuck's Cheerful as a great example of rigging that looks proportional. While your three masted ship will have a lot more lines, the principles of look and proportion will remain the same. -
Calculating rope thickness (Fictional ship)
Gregory replied to Harry12's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Full size is the size of the actual ship.. If you are working in a scale of 1:12, 1 inch on the model would be 12 inches' on the full size ship. If the full size rope circumference is 4 inches, then it would be 4/12 = .333 inches on the model. for diameter, divide circumference by 3.14 Are you working from plans, or just pictures, and have decided on a size for the model? -
Calculating rope thickness (Fictional ship)
Gregory replied to Harry12's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If you are able to enter data, then you would have entered your scale on the strt page. With this in mind, all measurements you enter would be full size. -
I got the little 8mm blade. Want to see if it helps making molding strips and other details, and because it's hard to resist pretty little tools.
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@gwish Thanks, you just cost me a hundred bucks.. Couldn't resist..😁
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Don't want to clutter up your log, but how did you get the elephant and lion shots? Are they telephoto? In any event, they are stunning!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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One more reason why those box blocks are problematic. Note how the sheave holes are close to the center on a lot of them. Again, this is what you get in most kits, and they really spoil the look of the rigging.
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You can use a tumbler like the Block Buster. I have my own little version that works better for me.. I have a pretty good stash of Chuck's blocks so I wouldn't go to the trouble of making the kit blocks work these days. But there was a time when it was all the kit builder had. Of course there are some kits like Vanguard, that come with pretty decent blocks.
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A little late to this, but I think they would have been hammered in place with a very tight fit. It seems I remember that some of the pillars on the gun deck could be swung up, out of the way, so that would have involved some sort of hinge.
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Good info. The finish really looks good.
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What was the other 50 ?
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I've stained those 'bargain' blocks with Fiebing's Leather Dye.. I'm satisfied with results.. You can see I ended up with some variation, but i think that image is light overall, because my rope is darker than seen in the image. Just a note, based on another user's experience. If you use shellac on the rope and block after it is in place, the dye can leach out into the rope..
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Thanks for sharing. Last visited in 2001 with my son.
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Besides being very high quality, your blocks are very competitively priced. Any chance they are being re-sold?
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Thanks for the info.
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Is there good reason to believe Victory's pillars would have been replaced between 1765 and 1805? ( I am still looking for some apropos examples )
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Just to keep the discussion going. Here is a draught of " 'Dorsetshire' (1757) Scale: 1:48. Plan showing the capstans, lanterns, turned columns, A snip from that drawing. Did someone not follow the 1750 establishments? 😁 Medea 1778 One More: Prudent 1768 . The shading would seem to indicate the centers are turned. P.S. I realize, without further evidence, we cannot assume the ship was built as drawn.
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Chamfering the corners would not reduce the square diameter from 16" to 13". Besides, you would now have an octagon and not a square. Are octagonal pillars described anywhere for these ships? Are "square" pillars found in any contemporary drawings? This is an illustration from " Navy Board Ship models". Of course it doesn't prove anything about Victory during the time in question, however in the absence of contemporary drawings to the contrary, I think McKay's opinion is as good as any. P.S. Here is an illustration from Lavery of " Early 19th Century First Rate " .. I guess those pillars could be square, but they don't give that impression.
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