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Everything posted by Gregory
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A drawing from " The Anatomy of the Ship " shows the bowsprit to be 35 ft. It looks like forum member/Moderator Matrim , finished that kit. You might ask him how the plans compare to the draught from NMM.
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I think some may go for contrast, while others think in terms of the siezings having been tarred along with the shrouds. You will see a lot of variation on contemporary models as well. It's a matter of preference..
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Really looking nice. Chuck is my go to for how things should look, but unlike his planking info, he doesn't go into a lot of detail about how he does rigging. He does provide a lot of good images about how it should look. Something to strive for..
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Ships at Trafalgar - what kits are available?
Gregory replied to bruce d's topic in Wood ship model kits
Montanes? -
Need source for Preac blades
Gregory replied to Barry Rudd's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
What is MSC? -
Need source for Preac blades
Gregory replied to Barry Rudd's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Last I ordered, Malco does require a minimum $100 . Blades are great.. -
It looks like the angle is set by how the foot of the bowsprit butts up against the bulkhead, and rests on the stem.. Is there a tenon on the end of the bowsprit to be inserted into the bulkhead? Where is the hole to be drilled you refer to?
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Do you have a snip from the plans? Is the point where the bowsprit is mounted visible on the completed model?
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The video is episode 18. I posted the link in the post above.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKFi-mjYzgE&list=PLGC1fmQp8LDsu0EKRM9nen3HqOzD8Y3F2&index=18 For the first planking I would use 1/16 x 1/4 bass like this: MODEL SHIPWAYS BASSWOOD STRIPS 1/16X1/4X24" 12 PACK I will try to find you an example of the grain issue..
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Do your plans include body lines similar to this? It might help to cut out templates and check the shape at the indicated stations. This would make sure the shape of your hull is correct. You should be able to soak your planks and get them to bend to follow the bulkheads/frames. Let them dry in place before gluing. When you bend your planks, watch how the grain tends to rise. It will often want to rise in one direction more than the other. Use the bend that creates less rise.. You said the video does not help, however he is showing how to bend the planks. I do not believe there are any other instructions that show it more clearly.
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A lot of kits ( not yours ), have gratings ( the openings ) that are way over-sized to the point that a foot would likely pass through.
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Then, your little sailors will be tripping over your recessed gratings..😁
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It has it's shortcomings, but I had to get a lot deeper into wood ship modeling before I was aware of that. I came across it in the library before I built my first wood model, and I found the Vanguard on the cover to be mesmerizing. It is the kind of book that can get young people hooked.. Just try getting them hooked with Steel as a first book..😁
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I was just thinking, if someone had the information, they might share it, instead of sending the questioner off to a source that might, or might not, have the information they were looking for... Maybe David Antscherl could share. Here is a plan from the book : The Frigate Constitution and Other Historic Ships by F. Alexander Magoun
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Byrnes Table Saw making a 1mm by 1mm strip
Gregory replied to CharlieZardoz's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Has anyone mentioned blade height? I wouldn't have the blade height much higher than the final thickness, and also at low RPM.. -
If you decide to glue them, just some white glue in the hole should keep them in place, but allow for easy removal if you need to later.. Meanwhile your cutter is really looking great!
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