Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Great model! It would serve well as the box art and other promotional material for the kit.. -
In the absence of a nut type fixture outboard, how were they fixed inboard? Were they threaded and screwed into the bulkhead? I would imagine there would be a lot of stress from the outhauls and the breaching ..
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Bolts are seen here on the USS Constitution.
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How to stain or dye boxwood?
Gregory replied to tkay11's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I might add that I didn't soak them very long. I also prefer the darker blocks seen on contemporary models, but that may have more to do with age ( of the model, not me ) than how the block was prepared.... While I am on the subject of age, I will say I don't want to wait 200+ years for my blocks to darken.. 20 Will be pushing it.. -
Le Coureur by PC52 - Mamoli - 1:54
Gregory replied to PC52's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
I used something like 80 grit sand paper. I laid the paper flat, and rubbed the piece over it.. I don't think I had a disk sander at the time, so I think I would use that to some extent today.. Here is an example of some of the pieces on my Mary.
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How to stain or dye boxwood?
Gregory replied to tkay11's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
@ jaager What about companies such as Minwax, who claim their products " penetrate " ? Their products are marketed as "stains".. Same for Varathane and other brands. I have used these stains on thin ( 1/32, 1/16 ) sheets, and it shows up on the other side where I did not brush it.. We may be quibbling over the proper definition of the word, which manufacturers are using improperly. Pedantry aside, I think when most members here talk about stains, it is these popular products they are referring to. I have found that Chuck's blocks don't take a stain very well, depending on the lot.
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That is a very nice job and shouldn't need much filling.. Any filler you use should be glue friendly.. Look for water based wood filler. If you have any major dips that are not showing in the photo, fill those in with thin pieces of wood to smooth them out.
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Can be a bit pricey, but you might check out: Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, 1600-1815 Lavery, Brian
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That was back before they had to put a sticker on it that said " Don't use this in the bath tub..
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This amounts to a tutorial on how to detail the bow and head of any number of ships.. I will be coming here often for reference. You may be giving away too many secrets..
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- winchelsea
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Just another possible option: See if there are any vocational wood-working shops/schools around. They may let you use tools or help you..
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The appropriate size would be actual block size divided by 120 or 130.. So an 8 inch block would be 1.6 - 1.7 - mm. I'll try to find a recent discussion about very small blocks.. At this scale you are talking about little bits of plastic or whatever to simulate blocks..
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I think it's a matter of " what looks good to you.. Google " images of belaying pins ".. You will see a lot of nice coils..
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- vanguard models
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Looking very nice. On those tie off's, keep them simple and cover with coils.. I like this example provided by SpyGlass Maybe not as much volume, but go for the look..
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It is a type of walnut from Africa. Not usually as dark as American or European walnut. I would be reluctant to say it is a particular color, and you end up with something different. It should be as easy to work as walnut or cherry.. The grain is usually finer than American or European walnut. Are you planning on using shorter planks, rather than going from stem to stern, as a lot of kits suggest? FWIW I have used these 1/32 basswood sheets from Model Expo to make my own strips which gives you more options for varying your plank width. You can also stain it to get the color you want. My experience has been that these sheets were very good quality.
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.5 to .6 Is usually good. Model Expo usually has a good selection. Just stay away from what they sell as boxwood.. Unless they have changed, their " boxwood " is not...
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I use CA a lot. Mostly anywhere it is not very small pieces. I used it for planking with veneer on my current Resolution kit project I used to avoid it because I had trouble managing overflow at edges. Then I learned to keep a swab and acetone close by, and have learned it's pretty easy to keep mistakes cleaned up.
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FWIW I have used a homemade accelerator that works pretty good. 1/2 Teaspoon of baking soda in 1/4 cup of purified or distilled water. Brush it on where needed. More baking soda makes it faster..
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It would be great to find some plan drawings of this boat.. Someone had posted some more pictures of the Chasseur, but I haven't found them yet.. Here is a link to a copyrighted interior view: Chasseur
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Very nice little boat! One of my favorite subjects..
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Le Coureur by PC52 - Mamoli - 1:54
Gregory replied to PC52's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Something else to consider, depending on the thickness, you can see how far you can sand down the backside of these pieces and make them as thin as possible without losing the detail.. I have done this with Dusek/Mamoli kits before.. -
Why do some manufacturers make single plank kits?
Gregory replied to Meriadoc Brandybuck's topic in Wood ship model kits
Another consideration with double planking, is that you have the option to use a wide variety of veneers, that may not be easily/cheaply obtainable in planking strips suitable for single layer planking.. Of course there are those who might ask " Why would you want to use anything besides AYC ? " 😁 -
Why do some manufacturers make single plank kits?
Gregory replied to Meriadoc Brandybuck's topic in Wood ship model kits
Technically this is true.. However, many ships were built with the frame spacing so close, as to provide almost a solid surface for planking. I don't see why there should anything inferior about creating a solid surface on which to lay your final planking and make the best model you can. Doing a a great job on the so called 2nd planking of a double planked kit, can take as much skill as doing a good single planked kit, and end up with a better looking model. If the goal is to do it the way real ship building was done, then most of your masts and yards should be built up also. And then there is rope. How about smelting your own cannon? The list goes on and on.. -
That looks like the instructions you find in the Model Shipways kits like this one. Armed Virginia sloop A lot of those Model Shipways kits have downloadable instructions. The instructions by Chuck for Syren and Confederacy are like tutorials for model ship building..
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