Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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I wouldn't worry about getting a perfect match beyond having the two pieces in a straight line. I assume there are going to be some trestle trees or other fittings covering up or hiding most of the joint. If you can, use a small wood dowel instead of the brass rod.. This will give you some play while setting up and a better joint when the glue dries. The seam does not have to be perfect or invisible. Once you build up the rest of the mast and add rigging it will not show. You can also do some fine tuning of the appearance after the glue dries. I often use this method to build up a mast from smaller pieces. Here is a mast I am working on but haven't glued yet.. The joint will not be visible when I am done. I hope this is what you are referring to.. If not will try to clarify.. Gregory
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Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
When I suggested stripper, it would be for small painted areas, with a lot of testing; say on an out of sight area, and definitely avoid glue joints. Paint thinner and even water, if left to soak, might compromise glue joints. -
Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Clean up is looking good. Take your time. You might consider using some paint stripper. Just make sure there is wood under the paint. Use sparingly and maybe several light applications instead of a heavy one that sits for while.. -
I'm having trouble visualizing dimensions of this. Would 1.5 w by 1/2 h by 9" l work? Hobby Lobby online has 1/2 x 3 x 24
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I provided a link to Syren's internally stropped blocks.
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P.S. A lot of metal rigging work in here too: Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
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You may have to hand-make the shackles with wire and such, but Syren may have some blocks that would work.. There are several sizes of these types of blocks.. Internally Strapped There are several build logs where members are making detailed metal work.. Here is a good place to start.. Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day Meanwhile I will be looking for some links for you.. Cornwall Model Boats has a lot of these types of fittings, but searching for them may take some maneuvering. Here is my search for shackles But other words might produce results for other fittings..
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Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
You might browse some of the other restorations to get ideas about cleaning techniques. Remove as many loose parts as you can and clean them individually. A mild soap solution is always a good start. Alcohol and q-tips are another option. For loosening old glue, you might try a hair dryer after you are sure there are no loose parts to go flying away. -
Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I would remove it just to see if there is some hidden treasure inside..🙂 I would enjoy seeing updates as you restore this.. It looks like a nice decorator model with an antique look .. -
HM Cutter Alert 1777 by muratx - scale 1:48
Gregory replied to muratx's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Chris, Did you overlook this? -
Le Coureur by PC52 - Mamoli - 1:54
Gregory replied to PC52's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Here is an image where walrusguy ( skip down past the ship's boat ) used tissue paper to make hammocks.. Just roll up tissue paper. Wetting it may help to get a wrinkle effect.. You might use some light coloring if you don't wan't it to look too bright white.. -
Make what makes you happy. What are the chances the inspector general will be coming after you with a micrometer? 😁
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I don't think anyone will notice if you make it 5.3 ..😁
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There has been some talk about this.. Model Shipways USS Constitution Cross section
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I really like the way you have several pin vise' for different bits.. I thought I was the only one who did that..
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I really like this little Kit Soldering Iron Kit I t comes with a lot of stuff I am not likely to use, but the price is good. What is great is that it has a variable temp control .. I use the little pointed tip to melt down polyester thread nibs when tying knots.. You can make them invisible..
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Hang in over there.. The 1949 caught my attention.. I was born Jan 15 1949 in Hearne, Tx near Bryan/College station. I see by the Farmers Almanac, the temp on that day was 75.. Then on Jan 31 it was -2.9... Brrr. We lived out in the country, so I don't think we had electricity, and pretty sure we didn't have internet..😁
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I have learned a lot over the years. The biggest thing to wrap your head around, is that you can't cover a curved surface, with flat, straight planks. Few kit instructions bother to point that out. To make it worse, they are often curved in more than one dimension. You are doing a great job so far. Most importantly, you are asking questions and not getting discouraged.
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One more thing I don't see mentioned, is that in general, the more expensive kits took more to develop, Thousands of man-hours for something like the Caldercraft Victory. The higher retail price helps recover that cost, hopefully make a profit and keep them in business. This is a prime concern when it comes to knock off kits - the producer did not incur those development costs, and their sales price is virtually all profit after a few kits are sold..
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It looks like you are not taking into account the amount of tapering needed at the bow. You need to measure the number of planks needed at midship, then divide the area at the bow by the same number. Here is a little section from Chuck's Winchelsea. He is single planking, but you can use the same method on POB. You can practice on first layer and refine the process on 2nd layer.. Don't undo what you have done so far, because it will clean up just fine as a basis or 2nd planking. You may end up with some sharp pointed blanks, but don't worry about that now. Here is a little detail to show the marks ( red dots are mine ) made when lining off the hull and determining plank width.. Looking ahead you will find the area at the stern post may be wider than mid-ship and you will have to introduce a stealer or two, because you don't have wider planks to make up the difference. I'll try to help you later with stealer info, if you need it. I am certainly no expert, but I have had to dig deep on this forum for the help I need.. You will probably see I talk about Chuck a lot, but I have found he is good at explaining things in a way the beginners can understand.
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Gratings
Gregory replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
You are correct. I checked some MODEL SHIPWAYS GRATINGS, 39 X 1.25MM SQ.60 I have, and the first number is the length of the strip and the 2nd the height of the strip.. On mine, the .6 is the size of the opening on an assemled grating.. -
1/48 HMS Surprise, who makes the best flags.
Gregory replied to ratskiss's topic in Wood ship model kits
Technique from another Chuck -
Should be able to avoid the heat problem with some LED lighting.
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I have plans drawn by George Campbell for an old Model Shipways kit. They show what Tomculb is speaking of. The two block tackle doesn't look right to me, but I'm no expert...
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Model Shipways USS Constitution Cross Section
Gregory replied to Jorge Hedges's topic in Wood ship model kits
Nice video, but do you have one about the Model Shipways USS Constitution Cross-Section.. 😁
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