Gregory
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Model Shipways USS Constitution Cross Section
Gregory replied to Jorge Hedges's topic in Wood ship model kits
The only cross section of Constitution I am aware of is from Mamoli. You should be able to find several build logs. See if this search link works for you: Click Here -
Thanks for the hard work. very interesting.. It looks like you used some very thin CA. I mostly use some stuff called medium gap filling from BobSmith industries. I mentioned in another discussion how I threw away a lot of stuff before I found the stuff I use. I was trying to fill out an order at ModelExpo to get free shipping, and I ordered their house label CA. Turns out it was re-labeled BobSmith Industries, and I haven't used anything else sense with any satisfaction. I'm sure there is other good stuff out there, but I have no further need to experiment. It doesn't spread out like your last examples on wood. The only time it leaks out from under the edge is when I use too much. It took me a long time to get used to how little it takes I have used it on pear, cherry, boxwood, walnut, mahogany and others. When I get visible residue, I use acetone on q-tip, stroking it several times, and it virtually disappears, even after it cures.
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There are a lot of different options, and too much for a single post from me. You could use the clamps until you have no room without putting holes in the 2nd planking. There are techniques for bending the planks so they lay flat on the curves. I'll find you some links. There are wood glues that set up relatively quick and there are methods of using rubber bands and various bumpers to hold down the plank until the glue sets. I personally use CA ( super glue ) but it has taken me a while to get comfortable with it. Do the Corel pans/instructions call for scaling the planks? You might have to rely on advice from others who have built the kit. Here is info about Chucks bending techniques.. This is single planking, but would be just as useful for double. Chuck uses CA and no clamping, but you could adapt it for wood glue and some sort of clamping. If you do use CA you need to experiment with a formulation that works best for you. I threw away a lot of CA before I settled on this: Gap Filling 4oz CA Glue ( Medium Bob Smith Industries Glue Keep asking questions and I'm sure you will get a lot of help..
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I love those little clamps for 1st Planking. Used them on my first build over 25 years ago..
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I don't think this was discussed in detail beyond pointing out it works better on porous material. I have had mixed results on painted and varnished surfaces. I make it a point to rough up such surfaces, and usually have good results.
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Actually I did that.. About two minutes after I glued them up. I pulled with my fingers because the clamps slipped off too easily. I was thinking about hanging it up with some weight, but don't have a quick way to do that without some further thought, but I will work on it later. I need a good fish scale to get a meaningful number..
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A little test I did this afternoon.. Some 1 x 13 mm boxwood with a 90° twist. Are there shear forces at work?
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Advice needed. How much rope do I need?
Gregory replied to bruce d's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
At this point, I would think that might be the best way , considering the Mediator and Pickle are relatively simple rigs. I would go with your measurements and add at least 10%.. Even if there are similar builds in the forum, I would doubt that people are measuring the rope as they go along and keeping a record of it. Maybe someone will prove me wrong. It is going to be hard to find a good replacement with Chuck out of the picture. Another good reason to consider making your own. -
You might be interested in this post by Chuck:
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I used it as a fraction of a pound, in terms of pound-force. Perhaps I used it improperly. What is the proper expression when pound/square inch <1 ? It would be possible to measure the spring-back force on a twisted/bent model plank. Do you think it would approach a pound or more? CA two strips of bass wood together and measure the force it takes to slide them apart, or how much force it takes to pull them apart. ( In my experience, the wood splinters and comes apart before the glue joint separates ) There may be any number of reasons to choose not to use CA on a wood model ship. The bond strength with wood, is not one of them. As with any adhesive, there can be inferior formulations, and improper use. The bond strength of CA can be thousands of pounds per square inch when properly used. I fail to see how the bond strength of CA is a consideration when it comes to wood ship modeling, unless it is a question of the necessity to un-bond at some point.
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Any guess about how many pounds per square inch is going on there? Or should we be talking about ounces?
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That appears to equal 4267 pound-force per square inch https://www.convertunits.com/from/kgf/cm2/to/psi
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That looks great for entry level for the type of project you have described..
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What kind of shear forces are we talking about in psi when it comes to model ship planking or even deck fixtures? I am reading numbers in the hundreds for various types of glues including CA, on various types of materials.
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It doesn't sound like like a good idea at all.. Chuck's suggestion of a scroll saw would be your best approach.. What sort of kit ( name ) are you talking about ? Is there something special about it that rules out acquiring a new kit that doesn't require cutting out the major components?
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Like Matt asked, " What is reasonable.. That Snapmaker comes in at $1250 for the base model and has a very low power laser, which would take multiple passes for the typical wood that comes in wood ship model kits. A computer would also be needed to operate the machine. You would also need to worry about a work area with a serious extraction ventilation system " Something simple " for what you want to do, doesn't sound like a realistic goal.
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Question regarding the base of the mast
Gregory replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You might consider dropping the metal ring, which is just a kit convention, and using wedges, once you are ready to step the mast. ( you can make the wedges look a lot neater than this ) Or fashion a wooden fabrication that you will find on a lot of models.. ( Chuck's Cheerful ) On the actual boat, this area would have a canvas cover, which isn't seen often on models..
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You have inspired me to do some testing..
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Could you elaborate? The sheer strength seems to be more of a problem with non porous materials, which doesn't include most woods. In what way, would the planking on a ship model, be subject to stress after the CA has cured?
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Post #64 From Mark's post has a comprehensive list...
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Here are some nice drawings. These instructions for Chuck's built up blocks might help with ideas.. More instructions..
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Gratings
Gregory replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I have used clear plastic wrap and zip-lock bags. -
It became popular because of the very fine, almost invisible grain and it's carving properties. It holds a very fine edge. Personally, I like the look of wood grain on large areas like the hull, as I prefer not to paint. Purists however, will decry open grain wood as being way out of scale for model ships. Too me, boxwood looks like something besides wood, like marble or ceramic, so in that regard, I like it for decorations and things like figureheads. The price has probably at least quadrupled in the last few years, and it does not show up in models here as much as it used to. Chuck's Cheerful and many of the early kits he sold were based on Boxwood.. So, you will find several Cheerful logs that utilize boxwood. I have really grown fond of cherry as of late, but it's darker color is not appealing to a lot of folks.
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There is a nice kit at Syren Ship Models, but at 24mm it may still be a bit too big. However, if you take a look at the downloadable instructions, they may help with making your own. Cornwall Model Boats has a nice selection, but shipping may be a little slow these days..
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