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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. There is a nice kit at Syren Ship Models, but at 24mm it may still be a bit too big. However, if you take a look at the downloadable instructions, they may help with making your own. Cornwall Model Boats has a nice selection, but shipping may be a little slow these days..
  2. Lay some masking tape along the top of gunwales and trace the edge with a pencil.
  3. Here is one method that looks pretty good: Your rope looks a little heavy. You might consider scaling it down a bit. There are those who will refer you to tables and establishments, but I like to go with what looks good.
  4. Just a note, it may take several swipes with the acetone. The cured CA is essentially plastic, and the acetone dissolves it.
  5. You might hold out for the long awaited Amati 1:64 Victory
  6. This is an image from a Caldercraft build, and the look you might be going for.
  7. Not an expert, but I have never seen two tackle on the rear like that. It is the in-haul to haul the gun inboard. I wouldn't be surprised if Corel got it wrong. it wouldn't be the first time.
  8. If they are twisting, it is because the shroud or lanyard is trying to find a rest position that it was forced out of when it was laid up.. You have to make sure both are hanging untwisted naturally before seizing them..
  9. Have you tried wiping with acetone? You might need to put some cloth on a thin blade of some sort, saturate it with acetone and wipe between the planks.
  10. AS for Chuck's weathering powder technique, I don't know if he goes into more detail somewhere else, but it seems pretty simple and straightforward here: Weathering the cannon on Cheerful
  11. You would be hard pressed to find an example of where this is done well by anyone at this scale.. Even at 1:48, most efforts leave a lot to be desired. More often than not, any strops and hooks look way out of scale.. You will find many fine models where the tackle is not rigged at all, or maybe just the breaching rope is present. You might consider a method called " frapping " Shown here on tkayy11's  Triton cross section. However, I think this is a 1:48 build.. Getting the hooks to look good at 1:64 is more of a challenge.
  12. I think the bronze with patina look is nice. End the end, it's how you want it to look.
  13. You might check out Glenn Barlow's method in his Cheerful log.
  14. 20 Gauge stranded: Here It could be any similar wire found around the house.
  15. You might try twisting together 2 or three strands of the really fine wire found in 20 gauge or thinner electric wire. It will be copper or aluminum, so you will still be looking at blackening it..
  16. I guess this part is a little late if you have already put them together.. When I have put these together, I just put a little white glue in random slots of one layer. Doesn't take much to keep these assemblies together. As far as where to put yours while they dry, just set them on some plastic wrap or a plastic bag.
  17. With regard to these planking drawings, What is the significance of the red vs the black drawings? Sphinx 1775
  18. Just curious... Did they have other bottles that were OK?
  19. The CA on the bottle must stand for the California version. They have all these environmental restrictions that make the glue unusable..😁 Just kidding. Must be a bad bottle.. Why does the color look yellowish, or is that a camera thing? It should be clear.. What about the smell? Will you be able to return it?
  20. I deleted my earlier post because I saw you had that information. Did you see my last picture?
  21. It looks like it would be a short run from the hole to the stag horn. It's hard to understand what you see as the problem. Is this the rope on th actual ship?
  22. Great food for thought Chuck.. Another consideration might be whether adding details are reasonable at the scale you are working at. How often have we seen an otherwise beautiful model where the belaying pins look like bowling pins, or the ratline clove hitches scale to the size of grapefruit ?
  23. A little bit of silicone caulk/adhesive on the base of the mast will give you a flexible non permanent joint..
  24. That sounds like something to keep in mind for the next kit. I have never seen a kit include a square step, or instructions for squaring the base of the mast, but it would be easy to do.
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