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Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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I used it as a fraction of a pound, in terms of pound-force. Perhaps I used it improperly. What is the proper expression when pound/square inch <1 ? It would be possible to measure the spring-back force on a twisted/bent model plank. Do you think it would approach a pound or more? CA two strips of bass wood together and measure the force it takes to slide them apart, or how much force it takes to pull them apart. ( In my experience, the wood splinters and comes apart before the glue joint separates ) There may be any number of reasons to choose not to use CA on a wood model ship. The bond strength with wood, is not one of them. As with any adhesive, there can be inferior formulations, and improper use. The bond strength of CA can be thousands of pounds per square inch when properly used. I fail to see how the bond strength of CA is a consideration when it comes to wood ship modeling, unless it is a question of the necessity to un-bond at some point. -
Any guess about how many pounds per square inch is going on there? Or should we be talking about ounces?
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That appears to equal 4267 pound-force per square inch https://www.convertunits.com/from/kgf/cm2/to/psi
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That looks great for entry level for the type of project you have described..
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What kind of shear forces are we talking about in psi when it comes to model ship planking or even deck fixtures? I am reading numbers in the hundreds for various types of glues including CA, on various types of materials.
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It doesn't sound like like a good idea at all.. Chuck's suggestion of a scroll saw would be your best approach.. What sort of kit ( name ) are you talking about ? Is there something special about it that rules out acquiring a new kit that doesn't require cutting out the major components?
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Like Matt asked, " What is reasonable.. That Snapmaker comes in at $1250 for the base model and has a very low power laser, which would take multiple passes for the typical wood that comes in wood ship model kits. A computer would also be needed to operate the machine. You would also need to worry about a work area with a serious extraction ventilation system " Something simple " for what you want to do, doesn't sound like a realistic goal.
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Question regarding the base of the mast
Gregory replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You might consider dropping the metal ring, which is just a kit convention, and using wedges, once you are ready to step the mast. ( you can make the wedges look a lot neater than this ) Or fashion a wooden fabrication that you will find on a lot of models.. ( Chuck's Cheerful ) On the actual boat, this area would have a canvas cover, which isn't seen often on models..
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You have inspired me to do some testing..
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Could you elaborate? The sheer strength seems to be more of a problem with non porous materials, which doesn't include most woods. In what way, would the planking on a ship model, be subject to stress after the CA has cured?
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Post #64 From Mark's post has a comprehensive list...
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Here are some nice drawings. These instructions for Chuck's built up blocks might help with ideas.. More instructions..
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Gratings
Gregory replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I have used clear plastic wrap and zip-lock bags. -
It became popular because of the very fine, almost invisible grain and it's carving properties. It holds a very fine edge. Personally, I like the look of wood grain on large areas like the hull, as I prefer not to paint. Purists however, will decry open grain wood as being way out of scale for model ships. Too me, boxwood looks like something besides wood, like marble or ceramic, so in that regard, I like it for decorations and things like figureheads. The price has probably at least quadrupled in the last few years, and it does not show up in models here as much as it used to. Chuck's Cheerful and many of the early kits he sold were based on Boxwood.. So, you will find several Cheerful logs that utilize boxwood. I have really grown fond of cherry as of late, but it's darker color is not appealing to a lot of folks.
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There is a nice kit at Syren Ship Models, but at 24mm it may still be a bit too big. However, if you take a look at the downloadable instructions, they may help with making your own. Cornwall Model Boats has a nice selection, but shipping may be a little slow these days..
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Here is one method that looks pretty good: Your rope looks a little heavy. You might consider scaling it down a bit. There are those who will refer you to tables and establishments, but I like to go with what looks good.
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CA residue problem
Gregory replied to Doc James's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Just a note, it may take several swipes with the acetone. The cured CA is essentially plastic, and the acetone dissolves it. -
You might hold out for the long awaited Amati 1:64 Victory
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This is an image from a Caldercraft build, and the look you might be going for.
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Not an expert, but I have never seen two tackle on the rear like that. It is the in-haul to haul the gun inboard. I wouldn't be surprised if Corel got it wrong. it wouldn't be the first time.
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If they are twisting, it is because the shroud or lanyard is trying to find a rest position that it was forced out of when it was laid up.. You have to make sure both are hanging untwisted naturally before seizing them..
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CA residue problem
Gregory replied to Doc James's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Have you tried wiping with acetone? You might need to put some cloth on a thin blade of some sort, saturate it with acetone and wipe between the planks. -
AS for Chuck's weathering powder technique, I don't know if he goes into more detail somewhere else, but it seems pretty simple and straightforward here: Weathering the cannon on Cheerful
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You would be hard pressed to find an example of where this is done well by anyone at this scale.. Even at 1:48, most efforts leave a lot to be desired. More often than not, any strops and hooks look way out of scale.. You will find many fine models where the tackle is not rigged at all, or maybe just the breaching rope is present. You might consider a method called " frapping " Shown here on tkayy11's Triton cross section. However, I think this is a 1:48 build.. Getting the hooks to look good at 1:64 is more of a challenge.
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