Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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First, click on one of the era headings: Then, click on " Start New Topic Make sure you choose the correct era for the model you are building..
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Or a napping Chuck with a nice pillow under his head... Or maybe this.. 😁
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You do not want them to be tight enough for that to happen. In fact, you would want your lanyards to be rigged before you seize up the shrouds, and use the lanyards for final tensioning. There is a lot of backward and forward adjustment to be done, while not letting your deadeye spacing get out of whack.. In the end, the shrouds would still have a very, very small amount of play in them..
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" This area " is part of the " Build Logs " area of the home page. You are posting in the " Scratch Build " part.. It is reserved for builds that are not built from a kit.
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The clip is to set the spacing between the deadeyes while you adjust the length of the shrouds. Once that is done, you remove the clip and rig the lanyards between the deadeys..
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Newer to Model Building, requesting assistance.
Gregory replied to histprof1066's topic in Wood ship model kits
It is doubtful that the 3D files for printing are already available. You would be looking at a whole nother' project in 3D modeling to make that happen. As Backer alluded to, getting someone else to do this would probably cost a lot more than another kit. -
For what it's worth, and maybe too late, I related a tip a while back about taking care of those nibs on the ends of ratlines. If the rope is polyester, use an adjustable soldering iron, and find the lowest setting to melt the nibs down to nothing.. I use one like this: Soldering Iron Kit It has a needle-like point that is good for this..
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^ With that in mind, it makes one wonder if the breaching line was more of a safety line, to keep the gun from rolling out of control on a rolling deck?
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The tried and true method is to have some kind of spacer while you set the shrouds.. Here is a good example: Cutter Alert by VTHokiEE
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Stitching sails with sewing machine
Gregory replied to Jorge Hedges's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
FWIW, while I agree for the most part with the no-sewing camp, similar to what Wefalck is suggesting; with my Mary, I printed out my sail plans on thin paper , over-layed it on my cloth, and just started sewing. While it leaves a lot to be desired in the accuracy department, I felt like the result was satisfactory for a mantlepiece..
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Reducing mast circumference without a lathe
Gregory replied to Charlie pal's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Another tip regarding turning on a lathe or similar device.. This method tends to leave circular marks around the piece, which you may or may not want to see.. I make sure I do some length-wise sanding after turning. On the other hand, I suppose sufficiently fine grit will minimize this effect.. -
Reducing mast circumference without a lathe
Gregory replied to Charlie pal's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You might consider making spars, at least the larger ones in two halves, then joining them in the center. It's easy to hide the joint with battens or a sling. -
The lanyard rope really looks good.. Are you making your own rope? ( P.S. ) Just noticed upthread that you are making your own rope.. Looks really good.
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tilt arbor table saw
Gregory replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I would be curious how that gap is overcome for smaller stock.. Here is a video about a jig for adjusting the angle. A tilting table angle adjuster Pretty simple.. Interesting that the builder did not show any results from using the jig. -
Chuck's bending techniques for hull planking should work as well.. Additional info HERE
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I'm pretty sure he is building a kit, probably the Amati. Nice build here. J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Fairly standard double plank with simulated rabbet.
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As David says, your hull is quite sharp. Not sure from your picture how you feel you went wrong. I'm not really sure which picture is yours. Here is a picture from BobG's Pen Duick which is a similar type bow.
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I think this may be what you need.. https://modelshipworld.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=571772
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I don't know if this helps, or even if it is correct, so other jump in/on if I am giving bad advice.. To determine my plank lengths at bow and stern, I start with full length at whatever scale ( 20 ft or so ) plank amidships following my butt pattern working toward the keel. Then I determine the bow and stern lengths as the runs play out. If the distance is short by a scale foot or so, I just use a longer plank, or a little shorter as the case may be..
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The measurement made by Thunder of the Caldercraft plans doesn't help?
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Make sure you note, the example is looking from inboard.. This stuff can get complicated..
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Looks really good so far. From Mondfeld. This seems to be pretty typical of examples I have seen..
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P.S. Does the spanker boom extend over the stern? Caldercraft would have probably included this in the overall length of the model..
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The lack of any finishing or beveling of the wood, makes me wonder if it was something contrived by a previous owner, i.e., someone replaced a missing deadeye with a piece of wood.
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Yes, that ' replica ' is way off.. I overlaid the AOTS drawing on the NMM drawing and couldn't get a match by almost a foot; the NMM being slightly longer. It may be the shortcoming of my software, or an error in the book. However, note that the bowsprit with it's steeve, only adds about 27' to the overall length. Caldercraft probably measures from the back of the lantern to the tip of the bowsprit.
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