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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Planking remains a challenge even after many builds, Look in on some of the Winchelsea builds. You will see a lot of planking excercise, with people acknowledging and correcting their mistakes. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/92-member-build-logs-for-the-hms-winchelsea/
  2. I believe your planked deck looks much better. I see problems with the quality of the Laser etching. There is a lot of over-burn at many points. I have seen this problem with my laser when the power is too high and the speed too slow. The over-burn happens when the head changes direction.
  3. You might take a look at the Framing and Planking tutorials where the bearding line is explained.
  4. Did he provide any illustrations of his method of " pinning " ? Was his purpose visual or for strength, or both ?
  5. You might try a PM here on the site, and let him know about the email problem.. https://modelshipworld.com/messenger/compose/?to=33401
  6. If you haven't already discovered them, there are some excellent articles on the NRG home page.. Ship Modeling Database of articles
  7. It would be hard to speculate if it would be a good idea for you. Proper planking requires some bending in at least two diminutions, and the thinner planks, depending on the wood type, may be less forgiving. You would really do well to check out the planking articles here: Database of Articles and Downloads
  8. There was some discussion about this recently.. Jaager's comments are correct..
  9. The older Mamoli kits all had the stem and keel as part of the plywood backbone, and the instructions call for the veneer covering. This is also the case with many other kits that do not provide separate stem and keel parts.. My Corel Resolution is a good example.
  10. Very few, double plank kits have a rabbet, which is a kind of groove, where the ends of the planks would sit flush with the stem or stern post. If there is no rabbet, you have to bevel the inside edge and fit it flush with the stem, keel and stern. There are countless good examples here, but I think YT did a particularly good job on his Mamoli Victory..
  11. When just getting started, I think a big difference is the quality of the instructions.. The Medway longboat or the Model Shipways 18th Century Armed Longboat 1:24 Scale are great options in this regard.. You also might want to consider the MODEL SHIPWAYS 18TH CENTURY LONGBOAT.. Great price and a decent tool package. Also great instructions by Chuck..
  12. I just remembered I borrowed a few of these from the Admiral for light clamping. They are small. light and still have a pretty good bite.. Multipurpose Sewing Clips
  13. I think that is an excellent idea. I don't think a precise color match would be as important as the over-all appearance.
  14. Here is a way to explore an alternate deck without damaging the kit provided one. You can transfer a template to tissue paper. Then you glue your planks to the tissue paper, allowing for the waterway . If it is satisfactory when finished, you can glue the whole thing to the existing deck. I have done this with success on some small projects, and it should work at this level also.
  15. The smallest I can find are about 1 inch.. Miniature Clothes pins Might be the smallest available..
  16. I think you might find this section from the ModelExpo Syren helpful.. https://modelexpo-online.com/assets/images/documents/MS2260-Syren-Instructions-Chapter-17.pdf The look of the tops would be very similar.
  17. I can't argue with what works for you, but did you ever try using an iron without the tabs? Yes it buckles, but with the iron you can just flatten the buckles out..
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