Dan Vadas

Yes, looks like you could fire it up and operate the mechanism. Extremely nice work, Danny.

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

OK Phil, let's try these for starters
 
1. I'm assuming you're using an acid-free PVA white glue, aka Craft Glue. Use a nice thick one - the more water content the glue has the more warping you will get.
 
2. Use as little glue as possible to still get a good bond. Too much glue will ...... you get the picture  .
 
3. Use an appropriate applicator. I usually use a squeeze bottle - one with a 2mm tip for large parts like bulkheads or decks, and a much smaller 0.6mm needle-tip one for smaller parts. You could also use a paintbrush for large areas - put the glue into a small container like a plastic medicine cup or similar item and brush it on.
 
4. Work quickly. You don't need to cover the entire area with glue, small areas without glue won't matter, but you need to get the pieces together before the glue dries too much. If it does, apply another thin layer over it.
 
5. On very large things like decks - don't attempt to do too much at once. You may need to do it in two or more sections. I usually align it all and tape down the "finish" end to my work surface. Then I tape a couple of "stops" to each side and the end of the surface so it is easily re-aligned accurately later. Now I run a bead of glue down the "start" end while keeping the "finish" end aligned in the stops, press it down and let it dry enough so it won't shift. Now lift the "finish" end and start applying glue at the "start" end, pressing it down with a flat piece of wood about 20mm behind the glue as you go. When it's all done press the entire deck down with your flat timber and - this is important - bend the piece gently (ends down, middle up) to "pre-stress" the part. Now slip it under a sheet of glass on a flat surface and let it dry THOROUGHLY (over-night).
 
I hope this helps a bit. The main point is - don't use too much glue.
 
Cheers, Danny

OK Phil, let's try these for starters
 
1. I'm assuming you're using an acid-free PVA white glue, aka Craft Glue. Use a nice thick one - the more water content the glue has the more warping you will get.
 
2. Use as little glue as possible to still get a good bond. Too much glue will ...... you get the picture  .
 
3. Use an appropriate applicator. I usually use a squeeze bottle - one with a 2mm tip for large parts like bulkheads or decks, and a much smaller 0.6mm needle-tip one for smaller parts. You could also use a paintbrush for large areas - put the glue into a small container like a plastic medicine cup or similar item and brush it on.
 
4. Work quickly. You don't need to cover the entire area with glue, small areas without glue won't matter, but you need to get the pieces together before the glue dries too much. If it does, apply another thin layer over it.
 
5. On very large things like decks - don't attempt to do too much at once. You may need to do it in two or more sections. I usually align it all and tape down the "finish" end to my work surface. Then I tape a couple of "stops" to each side and the end of the surface so it is easily re-aligned accurately later. Now I run a bead of glue down the "start" end while keeping the "finish" end aligned in the stops, press it down and let it dry enough so it won't shift. Now lift the "finish" end and start applying glue at the "start" end, pressing it down with a flat piece of wood about 20mm behind the glue as you go. When it's all done press the entire deck down with your flat timber and - this is important - bend the piece gently (ends down, middle up) to "pre-stress" the part. Now slip it under a sheet of glass on a flat surface and let it dry THOROUGHLY (over-night).
 
I hope this helps a bit. The main point is - don't use too much glue.
 
Cheers, Danny

OK Phil, let's try these for starters
 
1. I'm assuming you're using an acid-free PVA white glue, aka Craft Glue. Use a nice thick one - the more water content the glue has the more warping you will get.
 
2. Use as little glue as possible to still get a good bond. Too much glue will ...... you get the picture  .
 
3. Use an appropriate applicator. I usually use a squeeze bottle - one with a 2mm tip for large parts like bulkheads or decks, and a much smaller 0.6mm needle-tip one for smaller parts. You could also use a paintbrush for large areas - put the glue into a small container like a plastic medicine cup or similar item and brush it on.
 
4. Work quickly. You don't need to cover the entire area with glue, small areas without glue won't matter, but you need to get the pieces together before the glue dries too much. If it does, apply another thin layer over it.
 
5. On very large things like decks - don't attempt to do too much at once. You may need to do it in two or more sections. I usually align it all and tape down the "finish" end to my work surface. Then I tape a couple of "stops" to each side and the end of the surface so it is easily re-aligned accurately later. Now I run a bead of glue down the "start" end while keeping the "finish" end aligned in the stops, press it down and let it dry enough so it won't shift. Now lift the "finish" end and start applying glue at the "start" end, pressing it down with a flat piece of wood about 20mm behind the glue as you go. When it's all done press the entire deck down with your flat timber and - this is important - bend the piece gently (ends down, middle up) to "pre-stress" the part. Now slip it under a sheet of glass on a flat surface and let it dry THOROUGHLY (over-night).
 
I hope this helps a bit. The main point is - don't use too much glue.
 
Cheers, Danny

OK Phil, let's try these for starters
 
1. I'm assuming you're using an acid-free PVA white glue, aka Craft Glue. Use a nice thick one - the more water content the glue has the more warping you will get.
 
2. Use as little glue as possible to still get a good bond. Too much glue will ...... you get the picture  .
 
3. Use an appropriate applicator. I usually use a squeeze bottle - one with a 2mm tip for large parts like bulkheads or decks, and a much smaller 0.6mm needle-tip one for smaller parts. You could also use a paintbrush for large areas - put the glue into a small container like a plastic medicine cup or similar item and brush it on.
 
4. Work quickly. You don't need to cover the entire area with glue, small areas without glue won't matter, but you need to get the pieces together before the glue dries too much. If it does, apply another thin layer over it.
 
5. On very large things like decks - don't attempt to do too much at once. You may need to do it in two or more sections. I usually align it all and tape down the "finish" end to my work surface. Then I tape a couple of "stops" to each side and the end of the surface so it is easily re-aligned accurately later. Now I run a bead of glue down the "start" end while keeping the "finish" end aligned in the stops, press it down and let it dry enough so it won't shift. Now lift the "finish" end and start applying glue at the "start" end, pressing it down with a flat piece of wood about 20mm behind the glue as you go. When it's all done press the entire deck down with your flat timber and - this is important - bend the piece gently (ends down, middle up) to "pre-stress" the part. Now slip it under a sheet of glass on a flat surface and let it dry THOROUGHLY (over-night).
 
I hope this helps a bit. The main point is - don't use too much glue.
 
Cheers, Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

Hard to believe this is "paper"... boggles my mind.

OK Phil, let's try these for starters
 
1. I'm assuming you're using an acid-free PVA white glue, aka Craft Glue. Use a nice thick one - the more water content the glue has the more warping you will get.
 
2. Use as little glue as possible to still get a good bond. Too much glue will ...... you get the picture  .
 
3. Use an appropriate applicator. I usually use a squeeze bottle - one with a 2mm tip for large parts like bulkheads or decks, and a much smaller 0.6mm needle-tip one for smaller parts. You could also use a paintbrush for large areas - put the glue into a small container like a plastic medicine cup or similar item and brush it on.
 
4. Work quickly. You don't need to cover the entire area with glue, small areas without glue won't matter, but you need to get the pieces together before the glue dries too much. If it does, apply another thin layer over it.
 
5. On very large things like decks - don't attempt to do too much at once. You may need to do it in two or more sections. I usually align it all and tape down the "finish" end to my work surface. Then I tape a couple of "stops" to each side and the end of the surface so it is easily re-aligned accurately later. Now I run a bead of glue down the "start" end while keeping the "finish" end aligned in the stops, press it down and let it dry enough so it won't shift. Now lift the "finish" end and start applying glue at the "start" end, pressing it down with a flat piece of wood about 20mm behind the glue as you go. When it's all done press the entire deck down with your flat timber and - this is important - bend the piece gently (ends down, middle up) to "pre-stress" the part. Now slip it under a sheet of glass on a flat surface and let it dry THOROUGHLY (over-night).
 
I hope this helps a bit. The main point is - don't use too much glue.
 
Cheers, Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I've fitted the axles to the frame. At this stage they are all a tight fit except the Driving wheel one which can turn freely. The wheels will be glued to this axle so that both sides will turn together, and the others will freewheel on the axles - at least that's the plan so far, we'll see how things work out :
I've also fitted the crank pins to the wheels and filed out the centres with a small diamond-coated round file. These things work really well on paper :

I'm leaving the wheels aside for the time being - I've ordered some 2.5mm styrene rod which I'll use to "rivet" the wheels to the axles. Meanwhile I fitted all the brake suspension using the springs I made earlier. I had a drama with the swing-arm brackets, the clear coating on all of them let go when I started working on them so they needed a re-do which consisted of scraping off the coating and re-gluing them - much better :


The springs and swing-arms fitted :





Finally for this stage I made up the two main cranks :




Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I've fitted the axles to the frame. At this stage they are all a tight fit except the Driving wheel one which can turn freely. The wheels will be glued to this axle so that both sides will turn together, and the others will freewheel on the axles - at least that's the plan so far, we'll see how things work out :
I've also fitted the crank pins to the wheels and filed out the centres with a small diamond-coated round file. These things work really well on paper :

I'm leaving the wheels aside for the time being - I've ordered some 2.5mm styrene rod which I'll use to "rivet" the wheels to the axles. Meanwhile I fitted all the brake suspension using the springs I made earlier. I had a drama with the swing-arm brackets, the clear coating on all of them let go when I started working on them so they needed a re-do which consisted of scraping off the coating and re-gluing them - much better :


The springs and swing-arms fitted :





Finally for this stage I made up the two main cranks :




Danny

That all looks first class, Danny!
 
John

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I'll post an answer to that in my next one later today Phil, I'm in a bit of a hurry at the moment and wanted to show an update on my loco.
 
Here's where I'm up to at the moment, details of how I got there will follow a bit later :





Danny

I've fitted the axles to the frame. At this stage they are all a tight fit except the Driving wheel one which can turn freely. The wheels will be glued to this axle so that both sides will turn together, and the others will freewheel on the axles - at least that's the plan so far, we'll see how things work out :
I've also fitted the crank pins to the wheels and filed out the centres with a small diamond-coated round file. These things work really well on paper :

I'm leaving the wheels aside for the time being - I've ordered some 2.5mm styrene rod which I'll use to "rivet" the wheels to the axles. Meanwhile I fitted all the brake suspension using the springs I made earlier. I had a drama with the swing-arm brackets, the clear coating on all of them let go when I started working on them so they needed a re-do which consisted of scraping off the coating and re-gluing them - much better :


The springs and swing-arms fitted :





Finally for this stage I made up the two main cranks :




Danny