allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Well said B.E. I did a 1:64 drawing to see if they show up and they are quite clear when printed. I am guessing that it would not be difficult to include a sketch or verbal instruction about these hoops even if supplying material is impractical. Allan -
Hi Chris I looked at a number of contemporary drawings of masts and as you say, the wooden hoops on either side of the wooldings are not shown on any that I have seen. Looking at photos of contemporary models they all have the wooden hoops above and below the wooldings but these are all 1:48 scale so a good bit more noticeable than they would be at 1:64. Allan
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Hi Glenn, Sorry if this was raised before. There are no wooden hoops shown above and below the rope wooldings on the masts which I thought was always done so they did not get chafed or move on the mast. Was it not as common as I thought or could this have been an anomaly on Indefatigable? Regardless, she continues to be a superb build. Allan
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There have been several threads on this here at MSW, but I do not recall ever seeing any information based on contemporary sources regarding the finish appearance which could be interesting. Glossy finishes on modern fiberglass and steel hull yachts is common, but for warships I was taught that a matte finish is more realistic. This may not be correct, but wouldn't it make sense that the last thing a warship needs is a glossy finish so it stands out? I am pretty sure high gloss finishes were not done, but in the end, go with what makes you happy. Allan
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......if you are referring to the main stay and main preventer stay. If you are referring to the forestay and fore preventer stay, the collar was put on double from about 1733, not single like in the photos above. In addition, after 1773, the collar closest to the sprit was an open heart, not a closed heart. The drawing below for the forestay and fore preventer stay collars is from page 41 in James Lees' The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War. Putting a double collar may not be practical or easy at 1:100 scale. Allan
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Hi William Your work at this scale is quite impressive. Regarding the collars, am I correct in thinking that they are main stay and main preventer stay collars, not forestay and fore preventer stay collars? Thanks Allan
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Hi JJ Looking REALLY good! Your attention to details is great and if you do go forward with offering a kit it will be a worthwhile investment for any kit builder. The knee of the head is spectacular, especially the tapering which is not commonly seen on the majority of modern models. Allan
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I would like to add my own welcome back Mark. Missed your posts! Allan
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Tiziano, This continues to be an unbelievably beautiful build. I truly hope we can meet again soon as we are planning to be in Toscana in September. Ciao Allan
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Making lifeboat small mast for 1:200 Yamato
allanyed replied to Olaf's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
What actual diameter do you need? One idea that comes to mind if I am picturing this correctly, you can run bamboo through a draw plate to the largest diameter you need for the mast then taper as needed with sandpaper. My preference is to start with bamboo skewers or chopsticks and split them to a workable size, then run them through the draw plate holes until I reach the diameter I need. Allan -
Lift lines on cutty sark ,Revell 1/96
allanyed replied to Lost and Confused's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I am not sure this is what you are looking for, but check out the information on the clipper Young America in Ed Tosti's build. If not, the build log may still be somewhat useful for you. Topping lifts are explained and described in post #2683. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/3453-young-america-by-edt-finished-extreme-clipper-1853/page/90/#comment-535631 I believe he derived the information from Bill Crothers drawings. While this is centered on American clippers, there may be some application for your English vessel. Allan -
Welcome to MSW Peterairfix! Allan
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Well said Chris!
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The price seems favorable and I really hope it turns out to sell well for them, but there looks to be a number of other inaccurate things including the size and number of rudder hinges, the gun patterns, belaying pins, which were not used in that time period, missing wooden bands above and below the rope wooldings, gratings with huge openings that would break an ankle in a heart beat and more. I wonder why they chose to add another version of San Felipe rather than something different that has not be put out in kit form up to now. Allan
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Hello from Seattle - looking to buy a built ship
allanyed replied to wyapa's topic in New member Introductions
Study close ups that show the quality of construction and details of accuracy. For example there are a lot of models of complex ships such as the SoS that show the use of belaying pins which were not used until a hundred years after she was built, incorrect cannon shapes and sizes, out of scale and incorrect number of rudder hinges, incorrect dead eye shapes, and the list goes on. Look at contemporary plans and models of particular ships on the RMG Collections site and other museums. Maybe pick a ship that has not been modeled hundreds of times so you have something a little different. For an accurate model of the SoS go to https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66317 and compare to modern versions. There are also contemporary drawings of her on their site as well. A well done accurate model of SoS is going to be hard to find for less than $10,000 and even some of those in that price range may have things that are not correct. Maybe consider a well made accurately depicted schooner or smaller naval craft if the price is an issue. Allan -
I used to use Xacto exclusively but after more than one episode of it rolling off the bench and onto the floor, or worse, onto a thigh, when it comes to blade holders I went to flat handles. Saws and other attachments are not a problem for me with the Xacto, but definitely not scalpel blades. My go to is Swann Morton handles and blades but there are others that are similar. Allan
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
allanyed replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
WONDERFUL build Ron I really like seeing the great results with the use of hand tools, You are bringing back memories of my adventure in building her. Allan- 122 replies
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Hello from Seattle - looking to buy a built ship
allanyed replied to wyapa's topic in New member Introductions
While the model is pretty, it does not come close to meeting your requirement of an accurate depiction. But, if you like it and it will bring you pleasure, that is what matters, so go for it. Allan -
This seems to be the case but this book's drawings are a good guide in many respects as long as further research of contemporary based information is done to confirm or correct any item. Unfortunately it is somewhat limited as it is based solely on the contemporary model Melampus (36) 1785 which as Petersson points out on page 1, has been attended to by restorers over the years. Rigging restoration is not uncommon and based on the single collar, it appears someone may have gotten it wrong. Allan
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Hello from Seattle - looking to buy a built ship
allanyed replied to wyapa's topic in New member Introductions
For wooden model kits you are correct for the most part as many have a varying degree of quality and accuracy, but there are a couple exceptions to this based on the results seen here at MSW in the member build logs. You mention learning rigging skills which leads me to think you want to build a kit model yourself. If you are indeed in the very beginning stages and want to build your own the best three model kits from which you can learn and present accurate builds are those designed by David Antscherl and available from Model Shipways. If you want to tackle something more complex, the models from Chuck Passaro at Syren Ship Models are top shelf. Allan -
FWIW James Lees gives the following information on page 168 in The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War: The thickness was slightly more than half their diameter, which was 1 1/2 times the circumference of the shroud or stay. The groove round the deadeyes fitted to the chains was as wide as the link of the chains, those that fitted the shrouds or stays were the diameter of the appropriate shroud or stay. However when shrouds were turned in the cutter-stay fashion, the groove was a little wider to take both parts of the shroud. The depth was half the diameter of the rope or link. The circumference of the lower stays was 1/2 the diameter of the mast and the shroud was 0.6 that of the stay. Allan
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Lieste Thanks for pointing out the missing Borgard. See the revision below including the Pitt and Browne patterns as well. Many of these have been completed in various calibers in 3D by Ron Thibault and posted here at MSW so can be printed in resin. Allan
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Yes, that is my understanding, but Lees, Longridge, and Petersson all show doubled collars thus my confusion as to why the kit would show a single if the double is what was actually done. No matter, your build and the kit are super!! Allan
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Hi David Actually they look like Commonwealth pattern guns which were common between 1650-1710. Note the number of reinforce rings, the cascable ring on both the Armstrong and Armstrong Fredericks and the loop at the breech/cascable area on the bottom sketch of the Blomefield. Vanguard offers Blomefield cannon as well and I would guess they are excellent quality. Regardless, what you have look like nice quality barrels. Allan
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Your build continues to be superb! One question hope you don't mind.. Is there are reason the stay has a single collar with the heart rather than the double collar? Just curious and I realize at 1:64 this is a tough one. From Lees The Masting and Rigging English Ships of War pages 41 and 169 below for a better explanation of what I asking about. I looked to see if both methods were common after 1730 but so far I cannot find any information contemporary to Indefatigable 1794 with a single collar. Thanks Glenn Allan
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