allanyed

It is absolutely beautiful!!!! I wish I could be there for dinner. I would bring the grappa!! Ciao Allan

Ciao Giacomo Unfortunately I have not spent any time south of Naples. I worked with a supplier in San Casciano (VP) outside of Firenze and spent a lot of time in Toscana plus a good bit of time in Bologna, Varese and Milano as well. We are HOPEFULLY going to be in Rome and the Amalfi coast next year for holiday and my wife will be in Toscana with two of her friends for 10 days next May, including cooking classes for five or six days. I am anxious to be back in Italy!!! I adore the scenery, the food, and the people in Italy very much. I used to love driving the autostradas when the speed limit was much higher and I was much younger!!! Allan

Bruce, To confirm, are you saying the Jimsaw does NOT have tilting blade capabilties? That might nix my next dream purchase...... Rats!!!! Allan

Totally agree with the above with building your library around your interests at this time. If your interest expands, your library can then grow. I have about 70 books in my library but as my principal interests are 17th-18th century British ships and North American schooners, I probably have not used more than 20 of them in the past several years or more. Even then, I may use only one paragraph, page, or chapter of one book for a "how to" lesson as well as search here at MSW for additional ways on "how to." I am always interested in seeing how others do things so I am right there to see which, if any, method is most appropriate for my own project. Allan

Jim Did you check your post? Most of your photos are upside down. __it happens........😃 Allan

Noidea Not only is the framing some of the best to be seen here at MSW, ESPECIALLY, for a first project like this, your step by step photos are going to help a lot of people. Thanks for taking the time to document and share. Allan PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Current Build - Charles Galley - Scratch 1:64

Ciao Giacomo, Sono Allan. Welcome aboard!! One small comment..... I THINK the ship's boat is upside down. I do not recall ever seeing one on models from the 17th-18th centuries upside down on contemporary drawings or models. MAYBE they did it the way you have it in the 16th century ??? I love your country having spent many work and holiday trips there over the past 35 years. What city/area are you from? Ciao Allan

Gregory As with anything in this hobby of ours, not too much is 100%. I would not be surprised if there were 24 pounders with a single and double block on each running out tackle and on the train tackle, but from looking at a lot of contemporary models, and Caruana's description in volume II of The History of British Sea Ordinance on page 386, both sets had singles in all cases except 32 pounders and larger. I have no information on other nationalities. For most of our models, the only guns showing are on the upper deck, fc and qd which were smaller guns so there would not be any consideration for us to use a single and double block if they are rigged. Allan

Hi John, Just curious as I do not have Mastini's book. For what size ship, era and nation doeshe show a double set of training tackle? The number of train tackles and use of single or double blocks depends on era, nationality and the size of the gun. Regarding the type of blocks, the same goes for the running out tackle. Many modern models of British ships for example show a single and double block when this was not the case for guns lighter than 32 pounders. Allan

Welcome to MSW Mart!!!! It would be nice if you post a little about yourself in the new member forum. Allan

If you don't have the tools to make a case there are places that will make them for you. Some will make the box and you make the base. If you have a table saw great, if you don't, not a problem. Make the base board (lumber stores will cut to size for you) and use small strips of wood to form the grooves in which the box will sit. It is actually easier to do it this way. Set the box on the base board and glue the outboard strips in place..... perfect fit every time. Then remove the box and glue the inboard strips leaving the gap to match the thickness of the box walls. Do pay attention to have some kind of air holes as explained above by Bob. Tiny openings are best and/or fill the openings with something like plastic wool or other non-rusting material to keep out the beasts but will let the air in. Even a 1/8" hole will let the spiders in. https://www.shoppopdisplays.com/CS001/5-sided-clear-acrylic-box-custom-size.html?v=85&gclid=CjwKCAjwvuGJBhB1EiwACU1AiVb-wk0hbMZwPDjswKU-Eu7_9856ZCnqNCRk0SK6L6JIb1eth3m4bBoC3qgQAvD_BwE is just one supplier but I am sure you can find someone local out by you. Just make a base to go with it. A not-to-scale basic design that has worked for me over the years follows. I only show two of the four "grooves" for clarity. UV protection or not, it is best not leave the model where it is exposed to direct sun light. Allan Allan

Juhu Forgot to mention, the bell is also shown in the inboard profile forward drawing at that website as well. There are 22 drawings of her in the drawing gallery, including deck layouts at various periods from being a fisherman to being an Arctic explorer. https://www.loc.gov/resource/hhh.ma1719.sheet?st=gallery Allan

Check out the photos of the Ernestina (nee Effie M. Morrissey) at the Library of Congress website. This is at least one example of a Gloucester schooner with a bell as it shows in several photos, including https://www.loc.gov/resource/hhh.ma1719.photos/?sp=15 Allan

Great question John!! I have no clue but would love to see the possible answer(s) based on a contemporary source. From what I could find, the training tackle came into common use in the RN in the 18th century so would be appropriate for the Lady Nelson if that is the vessel you are working on, but for three and four pounders, I am not so sure there would be training tackle required. From an Admiralty order of 1734 they describe when the training tackle was to be used. In a nutshell they describe how only the leeward guns would require the training tackle when the guns were actually in use. IMHO there was no reason to have the training tackle in place when the guns were secured. Where and how they were stowed would be an interesting item. Maybe they kept the rope and blocks frapped, and hung on the bulwark along with the various tools for the guns. Allan

Phil, Thanks, I found black annealed in diameters down to .014" at McMaster Carr so there are lots of sizes available. BUT when you cut it, is the end black or steel color? If steel grey is the case how do you blacken it and otherwise prevent it from rusting after blackening? Thanks again for the tip. Allan

Frank (better than frantic) Welcome from a former merchant mariner (2nd Engineer) to MSW. Most of us former merchant guys here at MSW are old timers so it is fantastic to have young blood on board!!! Allan

Chuck, The liver of sulfur should be watered down a little and it will NOT stain the wood. Apply, then rinse with water with a brush. Do a search on Ed Tosti's build logs here at MSW for the Naiad and/or Young America. He teaches how in some detail. It works beautifully with copper, but not with brass in my experience. Allan

John, The running lines would be frapped as in the two photos below from Caruana's History of English Sea Ordinance pages 382 and 388. The first is a 1795 pattern carriage, redrawn from Congreve's Treatise on the Mounting of Sea Service Ordinance, and the second is redrawn from Dupin's Voyages in Great Britain (translated) There are some good photos of this practice on the net as well. Google "hms victory cannon" and click images and you can see some very clear photos. Allan

Thanks Dziadeczek, I thought that might be the case Laggard, Keep in mind your scale. 28 gage is too thin for 1:48. Assume an eye of 3/4" rod forming a 3" ID for example, this is about 26 gauge wire bent to a 1/16" ID eye. Huge eyes are often seen on kit models similar to the chubby belaying pins and take away from on an otherwise fine model. If your eyebolts are supposed to be bigger than 3" , the material gauge should be proportionally bigger in diameter. If you find brass to be too stiff, heat it until it is red and it will be as pliable as copper wire. To heat it, a propane torch (or a cheap propane cigar lighter) does the job. Stainless steel or steel wire are not necessary and are more difficult to bend and blacken. Copper eyes can be blackened in situ with thinned liver of sulfur and brass can be pre- blackened before being installed with a number of agents such as Birchwood Casey liquids. Allan

Dziadeczek What is CD glue? Maybe it's a typo, but if not, just curious about it. 😄 Laggard, I use tapered round nose pliers to form the eye bolts from brass wire or sometimes copper wire although copper tends to be too soft in some situations.

Ciao Gabriele, Welcome to MSW!!! Qual è la tua citta o paese in Italia? Per Goodwin in The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War the plates are about 48" X 15" and weigh 8.75 pounds for most of the hull and up to 32 pounds in the areas receiving the most wear given above. What thickness are you trying to use? If you go with an average weight/thickness it should be so thin at scale that it is thinner than paper so you can cut it with scissors. Note that at your scale, the 1/4" nails which were the size used according to Goodwin, will barely be visible and maybe best left off. If you do want to show them they should be indented as they are nailed, not sticking up like the head of a bolt as seen on some modern models. Have you looked at the various builds here at MSW that show how those builders did the coppering? Allan

Welcome to MSW Mark. With winter only days away up there in the frozen tundra (🤪) your timing is perfect to start your project. Hope to see your build log in the near future. Allan

Ubjs From your photo it looks like they used the same material for all of the printed parts so they are meant to be painted or otherwise colorized to a more appropriate color. The type of paint may depend on the material of these pieces, be it resin, ABS, or some other material. I would try to find out what material they used before priming and painting, but other members may know if there are universal coatings that work on any 3D printed material. Allan

While the below is not HMS Victory, it is a contemporary model of a British frigate and may be of some help. While contemporary, it has likely been re-rigged over the past couple hundred years, but hopefully the person doing the re-rigging was faithful to the original belaying points and methods. Allan

Shone I may be mistaken but I detect a hint of Nepalese in your screen name . DO NOT BE INTIMIDATED by anyone's build. This hobby of ours is first and foremost a fun endeavor. As suggested above, for a first scratch build perhaps a smaller project for a first time such as a ship's boat or smaller vessel such as a Swan Class sloop. There are great plans available and in the case of the Swan class, an excellent series of books, The Fully Framed Model, with step by step lessons and instructions. As with the Naiad books, the author of The Fully Framed Model is a member here and he would likely be checking and helping you from beginning to end if you start a build log and request if you run into a stumbling block. Brian, while Bitao's stove is incredible, the stove can be made from alternate materials and result in a credible job. I would emulate Bitao's stove, but if you are not yet ready for this, as is the case for most of us, take a look at the articles here on MSW as there is a simplified build of a stove in the Furniture and Fittings section of the Articles Data Base. It may be an acceptable alternative for some builders. Allan