allanyed

Mark, I was not sure about posting/advertising a website as he is not a member. Then again, I should have known better as we post places like Grainger and McMaster Carr. My bad. I originally found him through a third party so prices would be higher do I just sent Chris (Sgt Taz) an email asking if he has a direct website as we don't post emails on the forums. I'll post something as soon as I hear back from him. Allan

Further to this conversation, I have need coming up for 40 cannon barrels in two sizes that were different than those I had for the Charles Galley. I spoke with the printer and he was able to enlarge the cannons appropriately with no need for new drawings. The quality is fantastic. I ordered 40 cannon in two sizes, 100 port lid hinges, (50 left, 50 right) and the total cost was $20 including postage. Total time from order to delivery - 4 days. I would be hard pressed to make these from brass or making my own mold and casting them for double price and it would take weeks of work. I have turned cannon from brass, made a master and mold and cast in pewter and casting resin and now have found 3D printing which I am liking, a lot. These particular barrels are based on those used in the late 17th century so a new drawing will be needed should I have a project calling for later barrel designs, such as the Bromefield. I have not found any supplier of brass barrels or any type of cast barrels that offers the particular design I needed. If anyone needs a contact on this kind of service here in the US feel free to PM me, but I am sure there are a LOT of 3D printer folks all over the world for anyone interested in going this route. In this case, the vendor is now familiar with making these parts so may have an edge. Allan

Welcome Jesse. As you are in Maryland, would you mind taking a run over to Preble Hall and shoot several hundred close up photos for me? KIDDING. I am glad to have left the northeast but I do miss some things like being able to get to Preble with a few hour drive, St Michaels, the seaport in Baltimore, best crab cakes in the world, oysters to die for..... Maryland is a GOOD place to be. Again, welcome to MSW. Allan

Dave Interesting idea. I have never heard of such a method, but if you give it a try it will be interesting to see and hear about your results. Always room for new ideas here, that's for sure!!! I see problems in being able to assemble the lower deadeye to the chain plate and the shroud to the upper deadeye and securing them if they are preassembled as the lanyard maybe annoyingly in the way. Also, as every shroud is a different length as well as the lanyards due to the angle change of each shroud, getting these aligned may be tricky. Allan

Mark, Thus an advantage of building POF. Some contemporary models are planked from the bottom up a few strakes if any at all and from the top down to just below the wales leaving a big area un-planked. After going to all the work to loft, build and raise frames, I like to leave an area of framing exposed which gives the advantage of not having to worry about those last few strakes. 😀 Allan

Your idea of running the line through the hole first then "pinning" it temporarily is great. I had heard of this in the past, but this renews my thoughts to give it a try. My current is 17th century when belaying pins were not used on British ships so I can dodge this bullet for the time being. 😀 Cheers Allan

Hi Dunnock For future use, when the names were on the stern, they were always painted, not made with any plates or other materials. Allan

Phil, You are not alone in not finding information on belaying points so kudos for researching this!!! Unless you happen to be modeling a ship where the belaying points are the exact same as specific samples in books by Lees and Anderson for example, it is a difficult thing. Not saying this incorrect, just new for me, but I cannot find any contemporary models of similar vessels with eye bolts in the deck except where there are lead blocks tied to them. Can you share your source on this type of belay point for the standing parts of the lines that you list? The Pride of Baltimore II has a cluster of cleats on the mast as well as belaying pins, but I am not sure if they have eye bolts as well. You might consider contacting the Pride of Baltimore II group (https://pride2.org/) or Preble Hall and ask if they can be of some help to your belaying point search. I have had good luck MOST of the time getting help from Preble Hall. I would call rather than email but the choice is yours --- 410-293-2108 They do not have researchers on their staff so getting answers can be daunting at times. You can also contact the Naval History and Heritage Command as they do have librarians and researchers on staff. I don't recall if they give a phone number on their website so you may need to contact them by email which is probably listed on their website. Allan

Andrew, Names were not normally painted on the stern of RN ships prior to the 1771order of the Admiralty. They were allowed until the Admiralty rescinded this in 1782 so it is only a ten or eleven year window where the names were commonly found. Were there exceptions, probably. This order from the Admiralty obviously changed again many years later, but I am not sure if was in the late 19th or 20th century. Common sense comes into play here. Flying false colours and such was supposedly used on occasion when coming on the enemy. Having your ship's name on the stern would pretty much negate the idea of flying a false flag. I've looked at many dozens of contemporary models in person and in photos in the Kreigstein, RMG, Thomson and Preble Hall collections as well as many photos in Franklin's book, Navy Board Ship Models and others. I found only three contemporary ship models built prior to the 1771 orders that had their names painted on the stern. No others that I have seen had the name prior to 1771 nor after about 1782. I have not looked beyond the first decade of the 19th century so cannot tell you when the practice of painting the name of the stern started again. Allan

Lovely build!!! Thanks for sharing your progress. One question, hope you do not mind. Did the kit call for a name on her stern? I realize Diana MAY have been and exception to the rules of the Admiralty, but just as an FYI, it is extremely unlikely that Diana would have a name on her stern as the RN only called for names on the stern about 1772 then banned them about 1782 presumably to keep unnecessary information out of the hands of the enemy. As Diana was launched in 1794 she normally would not have her name on the stern. White shows the name on the stern in the Anatomy of a Ship book on Diana so maybe she was an exception. Way too many mysteries in this hobby of ours. Allan

EODGoat, Yes a year since his last post but It is five years that you have been a member and this is your first post so please accept my warm, albeit belated, welcome😀 Allan

David, Your work is very neatly done!! Do the red pieces in the gun ports represent the sills/cells top and bottom and the edge of the frames on the sides? The reason I ask is that they are already painted so it would not be easy to glue the port lid stops in place on top of the lower sills and the sides of the frames. (There would be no stop on the bottom of the upper sill) Thank you Allan

Welcome Melissa, First and foremost, THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR SERVICE TO OUR COUNTRY. I too get the astronomy bug now and then, having had an 8" Schmidt Cassegrain from Celestron. Living in a relatively small town now, the only light pollution is from the street lights so maybe time to re-up. I would love to get an 11" SC but the weight and moving it in and out would not be good for these old bones. Maybe sink a post in a concrete base and mount it semi permanently. Then again, if it is permanently mounted maybe a 14" !!!!!! Good luck with your ship modeling, you have literally tens of thousands of tutors available to help you along the way. Allan

Thanks Wayne, Your memory of our conversation is waaaayyyy better than mine and I appreciate you posting about this. I knew this had been researched, just could not remember the circumstance. Cheers Allan

Good point Shipman! Just thought most members would not mind spending five or ten seconds typing Euryalus Matiz in the search box 😀 Cheers! Allan

Hi Michael, For sure, as you are successfully getting some bashing going, get rid of the pin rails on the bulkheads. If you do want to keep the pin rack, maybe consider replacing them so the pins will be to scale. The holes look to be at least double, maybe triple the diameter of the pin. Hope you don't mind a question and comment. Do the instructions show the type of hull planking on your model? We see this style of planking on many kit build and I have wondered if they give instructions to do it this way instead of how it was actually done. Your planking is very neatly done but I was curious about this style. Regarding the flags from the kit, the two on the left of the photo you posted look like ensigns. The top one is the the type of Union Jack which came into use in the beginning of the 19th century so would never have been seen on the SoS. The lower one is a St. George's cross which was used in the 12th century for ships mainly for British ships sailing to the Med at that time and its use continued for some time time but I believe was no longer in use in the 17th century. By the time of SoS, the most appropriate ensigns would be a white ensign or red ensign. If you want to go with one of these, it is really a simple matter of printing these on silk span or other tissue paper and then fixing the ink before furling it to hang naturally. I have recently had to print these for my own project so if you would like the drawing please PM me with the dimensions and I can send you a printable color drawing. Chuck Passaro goes into some detail on printing flags using gift wrapping tissue here at MSW as well. Much better scaled than cloth of any kind. Allan The red and white ensigns in use between 1625 and 1707 follow:

Ron, I have been following Matiz' build log on Euryalus. If you have not already been doing so, maybe give it a look see. His work is spectacular plus some good questions and comments have arisen during his build. I am looking forward to seeing your progress updates 😀 Allan

Druxey I agree that this was normally the case but I remember seeing doors on the side of the bins on a drawing. This was quite a few years ago, so I'm not sure which ship/drawing. Time to dig out the old rolls of paper plans and take a look see. Allan

Tim, Sorry to continue with spending money and researching suggestions, but............. You can learn a lot about "the method" in The Ships of the American Revolution and their models by Harold M. Hahn. ($13 for a used copy at Abe books) For a somewhat complete explanation from start to finish of "the method" , maybe consider continuing your search and check out the Beavers Prize build log here at MSW. Allan

Charlie Depending on the wood, (forget using the walnut in the kit) you can either try edge bending or spile the rail as Jaager suggests. I prefer and use the method he suggests for heavy bends, but, you can try edge bending some species. Soak the appropriate wood in water for a few hours and while it is doing so, cut a jig the shape of the bend that you need. Then follow the method Chuck Passaro has detailed here at MSW on edge bending the wet wood and heating it so it will hold its shape. If the bend is too severe, most/all species will break and you will be much better off cutting the rail to shape in two or more pieces for each side from a wide board as Jaager described. I have had success with pear, castello, and holly using the edge bending method, depending on the thickness to width ratio and severity of the curve. Holly is the easiest of these to bend and will hold the shape with no problem once heated and left to dry in the jig. (Hot air gun - her hair dryer - works well) Allan

Ciao Matiz I am not sure I understand. The lower deck drawing shows the bread bins and scuttle that leads to the bread room below which, if I remember correctly, was a platform on the Orlop level. I believe the bins on the lower deck had doors into them from the sides. The upper deck in that area aft has the great cabin, bed place and coach, and there would normally not be any access to get below to the bread bins these areas. Maybe I am missing something here and Wayne can clarify. Allan

The smaller the scale, the more I cringe as well, BUT, if you get hold of a copy Ships in Miniature by Lloyd McCaffery there is information on everything about building and rigging ships in scales even smaller than 1:100 that you may find useful. This includes method for making blocks for scales half the size you are working which may still be applicable for your scale. Allan

Does the shape of each plank as shown on a planking expansion drawing show the actual shape of each plank? If it does, there are no planks with a straight edge on either side for their entire length except that the garboard appears to be close. The upper edge rises slightly aft and the lower edge is reduced forward to follow the rabbet. One example can be seen at https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich&filefrom=Saint+Albans+RMG+J4033.jpg#/media/File:Squirrel_(1785)_RMG_J6457.jpg Allan

I heartily second Jaager's response. Why kit makers use walnut I will never understand (except maybe it is cheap) as it looks awful due to the grain and is brittle. Oak is great at 1:1, but looks as bad as kit walnut at our typical scales and is just as miserable to work with. In addition to the woods recommended above, if you cannot mill your own planks, you can get sheets or strips of Alaskan cedar which is gaining in popularity or castello. If you do mill your own, you can buy billets or boards of cedar and castello or use any of the hard woods Jaager recommended. For decks, you can use the same, or add holly that has been properly harvested and quickly kiln dried to be sure it is white. Allan

Lovely model David!! It is really hard to tell from the photos, but it appears the coppering has indentations going in as if nailed. If this is the case, kudos, that is the way it was done in actual practice. Many models have them wrong with bumps sticking out rather than indentations, but I suspect this is incorrect information from the kit manufacturer. One point for future consideration, hope you don't mind. There was normally no gun port stop on the underside of the upper sills. Stops were only on the sides and on the top of the lower sill. I did find a photo of one contemporary model, Lizard 1697, that seems to have a stop on the underside of the upper sill on at least one port so there may have been exceptions. Cheers Allan