allanyed
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Wayne, You like the book more than I do!! I cannot thank you enough for the review, you absolutely made my day, week, month, more..... If it helps the modeling community one tenth as much as you indicate it might I will be a happy man. Allan -
Rob, I am very happy that you like the book, I appreciate you taking time to post that. As to Q&A, I am always in the learning mode as well. I must admit I have no sure answer for you. The 1719 Establishment had a line that this dimension was the same bigness as the keel amidships. I merely copied the same dimensions from the appropriate line of dimensions. Unfortunately, as I was transcribing, I did not look at what many items actually are, but now I want to know as well. I have attached what MAY be the answer. I hope some of the more learned members kick in their two cents be my answer right or wrong, more likely the latter. Allan
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Shihawk, If the guns were run out, they were there to be fired. If they were there to be fired, I bet no one was too concerned about making nice cheese rolls on the deck or worried about rot or much else. They just wanted to be sure they could cleanly move the lines so they could haul the gun into place with the barrel outside the hull before firing. Perhaps a neat but not perfect coil was used if only to minimize tripping hazards or kinked lines that would impair use of the lines when hauling or during recoil. If the ship was not engaged in battle or practice firing, the guns were secured inboard with the barrel up and tight against the inside of the hull, and the side running tackle ends frapped, not hitched or coiled on the deck. The tackle used to haul the piece inboard was removed when the piece was secured like this. Is that the only way it was done? I have no clue, but these are the methods I have seen decribed most often Allan
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Gun Port Lids
allanyed replied to wq3296's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Regarding the red paint on ports and bulkwarks, the following are contemporary models in Rogers collection at the US Naval Academy Preble Hall museum. Most had red lids, but the upper bulwarks were sometimes red, sometimes left in the natural wood color. Allan
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Keith, I am sure Nigel will answer you, but from my experience, the glue holds the planks upright, no problem. If they are close together they will wind up glued together. That is my experience anyway. Allan
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Jay, The third nail (pin) is so simple and effective. Thanks for sharing. Allan
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ancre Le Fleuron by cabrapente - FINISHED
allanyed replied to cabrapente's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Cabra Very nice working hinges on the doors. What is the second photo of the last group about? Sorry to ask if you described it previously, but I did not see it. Thanks, Allan -
Very nice write up Nigel. The explanation of slicing away the planks from the tissue sheet while the glue is semi cured should be heeded. Too soon will see some tearing but too late is as described previously, possible but difficult. For those in the states, I bought a pack of black tissue at Michael's some years ago and I think they sill carry it. Allan
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plank length
allanyed replied to maltbyguy's topic in Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
Andy You may find it beneficial to join the Wasa group, of which Fred Hocker is an active member and Clayton Johnson is the administrator. The deck planking thickness is different on each deck. Not only does the length of each plank vary, the widths vary as well. There are plans of the deck planking that may help. Fred's book on the Wasa may be of interest as well. http://warshipvasa.freeforums.net Allan -
Mike, In my opinion, the time to add sails is never. Unless they are furled, and/or your model is at least 1:48 or larger they are very difficult to make to scale and rig so they hang naturally. I have done sails on a number of schooner models that are 1/4" scale only because the client always requires it but I use at least 800 thread count linen or better, 1200 TC if I can find it at a discount price. I will probably try silk span on the next one. If you feel you must include sails, the thinnest you can probably readily find is silkspan. It comes in three grades, starting from the lightest, 00, 000, and SGM. I believe all the new stuff is polyspan. I also suggest you get a copy of David Antscherl's TFFM Volume 4 to get a great source of information on rigging. If you want to go with silkspan Google K&S White Aero Silk Covering for information and sources. Good luck Allan
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Frank, Never too old to learn I say. I had never heard of the ballentine before, but once I saw it, I thought, ah, yes, just like the beer symbol! Allan
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Hornet, I have been using lengths of PVC pipe for years, but your idea is much better. I just cap the ends, then there is the pain of getting the wood out, and water, no sink near by, etc. Your way has easy access to a visible area to pick out what you need while leaving the rest in place. Cudos. Allan
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Daniel, You can get a copy of Darcy Lever's The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor on Amazon for about $10-$15 and it explains a lot. The following is from Lees book on rigging that had this picture from TYSOSA. Allan
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Thank you Pat, your comment is very much appreciated. One more BIG thank you is to Bob Friedman of Seawatch Books. Getting this book in print was loaded with visits from Murphy, but he made sure it got done when others would have said stop, it is not worth the grief or costs. Allan
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Magnificent Ed, Getting the planking to fit so tightly takes well cut planks to start and some pretty ingenious clamping and wedging methods. As great as it she is, you are making it look too easy! Any fine tuning you have encountered and care to share as you are progressing would be welcome. Allan
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I received an email that made some very nice comments and noted that I gave credit in the book to several people whose help was critical in getting the book as close to right as possible. I would like to give them the credit due them here as well. They all provided information that was of immense help. David Antscherl, Gary Bishop, Richard Endsor, and Wayne Kempson all had a strong hand in helping me get it done for which I am immensely grateful. Allan
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Monello, I assume you know of all the plans available at NMM, many of which can be found on their web site. Details abound! http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/79916.html is but one example from 1765. Now, start making some saw dust! Allan
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Monello, One does not have to start small, nor with a kit. I believe you can do it. About 1976-1982 I built Victory and actually sold it, then built it again. Both were scratch and my first completed models so I know you can do it. (They were NOT as big your model will be) I look forward to following your build log. Allan
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Michael, Assuming the keel is horizontal and not a tail dragger, if you put a square on the "ground" and the blade vertical and against the fore or aft side of the cant frame, or any frame for that matter, it should be flat against the blade, that is, 90 degrees to the ground. If this is not clear, let me know and I will post a photo this evening. The cant frames are canted fore or aft, but are still vertical. The following sketch may help. Allan
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Bravo on what is the best cross section build I have seen in a long long time. Allan
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Newton, No worries, we are all here to help one another in any small way that we can. Allan
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Clearways The stations are round so I don't think etching would work. Some brass rod of various diameters and a bit of silver soldering is all that is needed to make them. They are painted white based on the photo posted by Nenad so no blackening of the brass is required. Just a bit of cleaning before painting. If you are not experienced in silver soldering, fear not ! The thought of silver soldering was rather intimidating to me before I gave it a try. Once I made a few soldered joints I was hooked and never again used CA, soft solder or epoxy for joining brass. Allan
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Danny While the very very high quality of your work is obvious, your step by step series of photos is terrific and a great help to anyone that has not yet put together a bow from scratch. Making and fitting these parts is truly a challenge, but you have shown in a very clear way that it is a matter of patience more than anything else. Allan
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Yam(?) My first visit to your build. Lovely. In reading the posts, I did not see the scale for this model. Is it 1/4? Thanx for sharing. Allan
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Rob, The Janka Scale hardness for Tulep is 540 where as the poplar that we commonly see in the US is 500 and bass is 380 for a comparison. English box is 2840 and Holly is 1080. Best way to find out if it can be used is to try a few pieces and see how you like working with it. Allan
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