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allanyed
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allanyed got a reaction from Keith Black in HMS EURYALUS by Matiz - FINISHED - scale 1:56
Hi Tiziano,
Your method of making the axles for the trucks is a new one for me and they look great. Did you try using an axle cutter first and then find this method better? Your method looks like something I think I will try on future projects.
Ciao
Allan
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allanyed reacted to Gregory in HMS Greyhound by Srenner - Corel - 1:100
I have seen kit instructions that actually call for this..
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allanyed reacted to Gregory in HMS Greyhound by Srenner - Corel - 1:100
Once the outer planking first layer is in place, those frames can be thinned as much as you need to..
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allanyed reacted to Jond in Blue Dolphin 1926 by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48 - Arctic exploration schooner
8 Let’s start with roughing out the sails.
To make sails in silk span I am using the same method I leaned with my Ada Cliff build last year. My daughter and I experimented with paining and hanging. I later cut out the sails. This year she wanted details, both to prepare, then also to cut out and prep the sails. So, first I went to the drawing board.
1. here is the cad overlay of the sails
2. here is one version of the detail for a sail that she used. I stated before that we have several photos showing us the direction of the seams.
3. Here we have the marked-up template and resultant cut out and edged sail. Two sides, the luff and foot, got string for the interior bolt rope and the leech got fine wire with end loops. The loops are for rigging and the wire shall hopefully hold some shape when rigged
4. In this photo we confirmed the reefing lines. We also see the only image to include a fisherman staysail. I think I will include this image in the story board but not make this extra sail. I would doubt its use in the arctic. -
allanyed reacted to Peter6172 in EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
Work on the rudder has stalled. I did not have enough Brass strip nor the right size of rod and tube for the gudgeon pins and pintals.
Fashion pieces installed and the whole stern section given its preliminary fairing inside and out. Fashion pieces are still a little oversize so they can be "blended" into the rest of the frames as the go in. I have also used a little filler to help fair the joints (where tenons/mortices did not match tightly) or the beading line joint did not match. Have learned that I need to cut the fill frames closer to their faired shape before glueing in so I can fully see the joins.
I have started on the other can't frames. F31A sections is being glued up with their joining chocks as we speak. Frames 31F, 30A/F and 29A/F are templated and ready to scroll saw out.
The position of the can't frames on the deadwood have also been marked out in pencil.
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allanyed reacted to Snug Harbor Johnny in HMS Beagle by LucienL - OcCre - 1:60
Such a nice method ... and a great outcome for the boat ! This is something that anyone learning from MSW logs can benefit from. Sure, its a lot more trouble than just building them as provided by OcCre - but you are going to significant lengths to make the entire Beagle build far better than an 'out of the box' exercise. I tip my hat to you!
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allanyed got a reaction from Dave_E in HMS VICTORY by jeff watts - FINISHED - Billing Boats
Your display set up really looks good! Are you going to have a case made or build one yourself? The rigging is a dust magnet and hard to clean so if you have not done so already, maybe consider covering her until she is in a closed case.
Congrats on your project!!
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Rob S in HMS Victory by Rob S - Mamoli - 1/90th scale - first build - Terminated
Regarding your timberheads, it may be easier to cut the openings in the cap rail before permanently gluing it in place as the timberheads come through the rail similar to how you show the timberheads in the beakhead bulkhead rail. One other thing for the future, the hatch coamings, the head ledges are cambered and rest on top of the coaming pieces, rather than the 45 degree joint. (Sketch below)
These are seemingly little things that probably do not matter for some, but do matter for others. In the end, always your own choice as to what makes you happy.
Cheers
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in English Pinnace by rudybob - Model Shipways - Scale 1:24
I am not sure what you mean on this so if the following makes no sense, my apologies.🙃
I assume you have studied the tutorial on spiling planks in the Articles Data base here at MSW. Regarding full size ships there are planking expansion plans which MAYBE is what was done by the kit makers that provided pre-shaped planks for their ships and boats. If you are spiling the planks every strake of course is a little different but at least there is no trial and error. If you try to draw these out and make your own plank expansion plan like the one below, it may not work as well. This one shows both internal and external planking. I for one would be curious to see if you do give it a try and how well it works.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Canute in best size drills for pilot holes for the planking nails
Yep, I tried that earlier and there are several dozen but none by anyone named Allen or Model Space. How do you find it if you do not have a website?
Thanks again
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Occre Santisma - Planking the hull
Hi Paul, There should be little to no spring in the planks if they have been spiled or otherwise shaped as in the planking article here at SW by David Antscherl or the four part video by Chuck Passaro. It takes a little practice but the results are fantastic.
Allan
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allanyed reacted to yvesvidal in HMS Indefatigable 1794 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - FINISHED
I wish CAF Model would use the same technique for their window panes, instead of the CNC machined wood. These windows are very sharp, especially at this scale.
Yves
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allanyed reacted to Bob Cleek in best size drills for pilot holes for the planking nails
Some soak, boil, or steam their wood, and it's a matter of style, I suppose. There is a range of "bend-ability" among various wood species, but from a scientific standpoint, it's the heat that softens the lignin in the wood, permitting it to bend without breaking and to harden in the shape it's bent when the lignin cools. Steaming or boiling the wood only serves as a medium for applying the heat to the wood. In full-size construction, steaming is used because it is the best method of heating a full-size plank or frame timber, not because the wood needs to be wetted. It's absolutely true that a wet piece of wood may well shrink when it dries. There's no reason it needs to be wet, as illustrated by Chuck Passaro's planking tutorials.
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allanyed got a reaction from DaveBaxt in Spray Painting Advice/Tips for a Rookie?
This is great advice. You can also do this with initial clear coat spray to seal the edges before spraying color. One other thing that I learned from a lab techie when I worked for PPG Industries coatings and resins division ----do NOT ever start the spray on the object. Start next to, but off the item to be painted then move steadily laterally across the item and continue until you are PAST the item. If you start and/or stop on the object the spray will be uneven.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from barkeater in best size drills for pilot holes for the planking nails
If you are pre-shaping the planks via either spiling, or heat and edge bending as seen in Chuck Passaro's four part video series, there is no need for clamping or nailing. If a plank is too springy to hold after a minute it probably has not been properly pre-shaped. There are always some tough spots like the areas aft at the transoms that can be tricky but can be managed in a variety of ways including those above. There are also some advocates of cyanoacrylate glue that sets quickly or a combination of PVA and CA. Try these various methods and see what works best for you.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Bob Cleek in best size drills for pilot holes for the planking nails
If you are pre-shaping the planks via either spiling, or heat and edge bending as seen in Chuck Passaro's four part video series, there is no need for clamping or nailing. If a plank is too springy to hold after a minute it probably has not been properly pre-shaped. There are always some tough spots like the areas aft at the transoms that can be tricky but can be managed in a variety of ways including those above. There are also some advocates of cyanoacrylate glue that sets quickly or a combination of PVA and CA. Try these various methods and see what works best for you.
Allan
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allanyed reacted to Jim Rogers in best size drills for pilot holes for the planking nails
If you are using them to hold planks whilst planking, don’ t. They split planks and leave unsightly holes and pri marks when removed. If you are using them for Trenails again don’t, use Chuck’s monofilament line method, looks great and is faster cleaner.
For planking use these clamps from Micro Mark. Drill pilot hole in bulkhead and hold plank in place. Holes are covered up as you plank and they hold very tight.
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allanyed reacted to barkeater in best size drills for pilot holes for the planking nails
I do not use nails in my planking as they split wood and have to be removed leaving holes. I glue either clamping or applying pressure with my fingers and then I drill and use trenails which look authentic to the period I am doing. Having said that, a #72 drill bit fits most nails fairly securely and I use them for pinning furniture and where a bolt would have been used. Also, concerning trenails, the #72 bit fits the 28 or 26 size on Byrne Machines draw knife for reference.
Richard.
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allanyed reacted to William Oliver in Hello
Just joined up. Looking to build my first model ever. I'm going to start simple and build the Model Shipways Lowell Grand Banks Dory.
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allanyed got a reaction from jeff watts in HMS VICTORY by jeff watts - FINISHED - Billing Boats
You are right Biker Mart, there are a lot of folks like you that don't care if their model is accurate or not and are very happy with some kit manufacturers' make-believe designs which is absolutely fine. There is nothing wrong or right about anyone's choice, this is a hobby for most, not a vocation, so no matter the choice, it is right to that builder if they are happy.
On the other hand there are many model builders that do care about the details. To answer your question about who cares, it would be interesting to have a poll to know what percentage of modelers cares about accuracy and what percentage don't care. You may very well be in the majority.😁
Regarding the copper plates fasteners you mention as slightly out of scale, they are closer to 400% out of scale and reversed showing rivet heads which were never used rather than what shuld appear as tiny dents from nails being driven home. It would be like using an 8mm block where a 2mm block should be used, not exactly "slight"
To each his own and to whatever makes the builder happy.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from oakheart in HMS Bounty by MeandSuzy1 - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:48
Doug, I have had the extremely good fortune of having mentors in various areas of this hobby for many years that have guided and taught me. Each of them is a member here at MSW so you are in a good place as everyone seems to be happy to share their own knowledge and experience. Forgotten things??? My memory sucks so a good library is also extremely helpful. Some folks here have hundreds of books but personally I have far fewer in total and find that I only use about a dozen of them on a regular basis.
Allan
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