yvesvidal

I agree with you. I also have the kit and if I ever get to it (one day), I would definitely paint it with the early colors. Yves

Are you going for the "grey plastic/shiny brass" version or will you paint it later on? Yves

Craig, I think you are perfectly right, as depicted in this beautiful painting of Graham Turner: Yves

What a great choice..... The winner of the first Monaco Grand Prix, sitting in front of the Casino. Yves

Beautiful and very well engineered work. Yves

I can't wait to see the rest of the collection. Yves

Stunning model, very wicked!!!! Yves

I like your attention to details. Yves

It is now time to work on the tender, before making any more progress on the snowplow itself. The tender must be built and the close coupling to the main chassis must be tuned perfectly. The various lines linking both units, must also be created as they are not included in the kit. The tender chassis is made of two layers of wood assemblies, as described by the plan: And this is where we are..... Yves

Assembling the wheel is a game of patience and precision: I do not think I will be painting the wheel as you see in Railroad Museums, as I believe this way of presenting the blades is to prevent them from corroding. I cannot think at any moments that such a device biting and chewing ice and snow, could keep any paint. I also like the metallic appearance of it as it offers a nice contrast. On the track: Yves

Now is the time to build the wheel and the shroud: The shroud is mostly done with polystyrene parts and the shroud itself, made of some kind of resin. When you sand it, it has a specific kind of smell, reminiscent of Bakelite: The whole enchilada is then painted with Red Boxcar Floquil paint, airbrushed: Yves

A few progress on the snowplow chassis. The boiler bulkhead is installed as well as the ashpan: I have also included the brake air line. We can now move to the painting of the chassis and trucks: A piece of wood is glued to the rear to support the bumper and coupling bar. Below, I am also adding the two water lines that will be connected to the snowplow tender. You can see, to the right, the coupling bar pocket. Back to the front, the axle of the wheel is installed. Careful positioning is done to make sure the shroud is just above the rails (that is why it is so important to have a piece of On3 track): The kit provides usually only one support, but my kit has a bunch of spare parts and as such, I am using them: Yves

Yes, the Model Railroading world has a lot of complexity based on history and countries. This also applies to real Scale 1 railroading and I remember the country of Spain changing the gauge of their rails, so that trains could go from France to Spain, without having to disembark all passengers and freight at the border. Spain is still working on retro-fitting their tracks to the standard European gauge. Enough said about these idiosyncrasies. I have to build a test track for On3. I cannot buy these tracks, commercially. Since I am on a hurry, I am getting a piece of flexible PECO On30 tracks (16.5 mm wide - Code 100) and I will expand the distance between the rails, by simply cutting the ties in their middle: Using a KADEE coupler-and-track gauge for On3, I am spiking these two halves making sure the distance of 19 mm is respected all along. Below is the result: not pretty but it is working and it allows me to test my snowplow and work all the kinks related to height, clearance and couplers. Obviously, for the final display (if I finish that kit...), I will try to lay a true On3 track, using code 87 rails and wooden ties, spiked accordingly. Yves

Let's briefly talk about gauges for model railroads and what is On3 versus the more generalized and available On30. The most common gauge is HO (1/87) and the distance between the rails is 16.5 mm. We also have Z scale (1/220) with a gap of 6 mm between rails. Marklin is the leader. Next is N scale (1/160) with a distance of 9 mm. Arnold Rapido invented it. Then is HO (1/87) Next is S scale (1/64), seldomly used and unfortunately rather expensive and hard to find. Next is O scale (1/48) with a gap of 32 mm. This is called by certain people the King of Scale. Purists use Proto-48 which has a larger distance and much finer rails. Next is Gauge 1 (1/32) with a distance between the rails, of 45 mm. Finally, G scale (1/22.5), which is a narrow gauge, uses the same 45 mm track as Gauge 1. In between these scales are narrow gauges: - Zn3 (never heard about that one). - Nn3 (using Z scale tracks = 6 mm) - HOn3 (using N scale tracks = 9mm) - On3 and On30 (we will be back to these ones...). There is also On2.... - G scale (using the Gauge 1 tracks of 45 mm). This one is a narrow gauge, too. The true O scale narrow gauge is called On3 (1/48). It uses a distance between tracks of 19.2 mm. There are no commercial tracks available for that gauge and you must lay your own track and build your own turnouts. On30 is a derivative invented by Bachmann and using 1/48th scale models, running on an HO based tracks (16.5 mm). The idea of re-using existing HO tracks (granted, you have to space the ties...) allowed many train makers to develop O scale engines and rolling stocks, without having to worry about the availability of tracks. Narrow Gauge Purists use On3 (19.2 mm). This kit is designed for On3 and therefore a piece of track must be built, to test the snowplow and to display it. Yves

Well, following the instructions, the first task is to put together the chassis of the snowplow: This is done using hot glue. I find that the CA does not do very well with metal parts and does not provide the flexing required on such model. The chassis is planned and filed as much as possible. The most important parts in a car, are the trucks. It is essential to build them first, to make sure that your chassis sits perfectly flat and that it rolls nicely and smoothly on the tracks. The truck parts are all made of white metal, with the exception of the wheels and axles, made of plastic (Delrin). So, we do not have to worry about shorts or electric pick-ups. Above is the front truck and below is the rear truck. The front truck has ice-breakers hanging from the front bar. None of the trucks have any kind of working suspension. It is a lot simpler this way. Notice how the wheels are gathered inside the trucks, wheels sized for narrow gauge tracks. When PORTLAND LOCOMOTIVES COMPANY delivered the trucks to RGS, they sent two set of axles: one for narrow gauge and one for Regular Gauge. Only the Narrow gauge axles were used on the RGS tracks. Below, you can see the difference between narrow gauge and regular gauge. On the metric gauge, wheels are a lot smaller as compared to the standard 33 inches Bettendorf trucks, found on most freight cars of that time. The kit provides cheesy wood screws to attach the trucks. I like mine strongly anchored into the chassis and thus, I resorted to drilling and tapping a 2.5 mm steel screw in the chassis bolsters: This is infinitely stronger and I recommend that solution if you wish to build that kit and make sure that this plow can roll on your layout. Et voila! The chassis sits on its trucks and we can now move to the other sections of the build, having a good reference of height and stance. Yves

The kit comes into a very small cardboard box, packed to the hilt. Honestly, I do not know how they can pack so many parts and the instructions into such a small box. The kit has evolved and I can only talk about the Durango Press version which was the original kit maker. The WISEMAN Models kit is still available but I think some of the metal parts have been replaced with resin castings. The instructions are somewhat clear, as long as you read very carefully the text. In full honesty, this is a very difficult kit because of the clear lack of description of the parts. You have to rummage through the various bags of parts to figure out what is what and where it goes. The parts are made mostly of soft white metals cast, and wood strips and plates. Some plastic parts are provided mostly for the shroud of the wheel. Gluing white metal parts presents a challenge in itself and your CA glue is not always the best option. Yves

Folks, I have a passion for ships and model ships and you may have read some of the build logs I created with time. However, my real obsession is with model trains. I started collecting N-scale (1/160th) trains from the age of 10 up until 35, when I sold my N-scale collection to finance some much more expensive O-Scale models (1/48th). I have not stopped collecting steam (for the most part) and diesel locomotives since then. I also dwell in the realm of Gauge One (1/32th) but I am limiting myself, because of the hefty price of these models. I usually publish all my articles in the O scale Magazine but various reasons are pushing me to publish the building of this model on this forum. This is a very old kit originally produced by Durango Press and re-done by Wiseman Models, if I am not mistaken. I have owned that kit for more than ten years and it was time to put it together. The building will be slow as I am also trying to finish the HMS Bellona in my little spare time. This kit depicts the narrow-gauge (metric) Rio Grande Southern Rotary Snowplow #2 used to clean the tracks over the Cumbres and Marshall Passes. The rotary snowplow was build by the Portland Locomotive Company in 1892 and served for more than 50 years despite several derailments and fire damages. Fortunately, the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad association has been able to restore that rotary snowplow after 20 years of efforts and is operating again that marvelous machine. If you are interested, I invite you to watch that great video of the snowplow in full action (about 39 minutes): Yves

Great choice, Greg. I was thinking about getting that kit and I will be watching your progress with attention. Yves

We are all enjoying seeing that little table, instead of the trash bin for the pictures, Kevin. Superb model, too. You are moving very fast on this one. Yves

Another great classic kit being described. Between the Renault F1 car and this one, we are very lucky. Yves

Thank you Kevin. I hope that once you are finished with your Indefatigable, you will resume your CAF Enterprise build. It helps to work in larger scale.... Yves

Thank you John. Yves

Back at working on the gun port lids. Here is my method to make it less annoying and time consuming: Paint the inside of all lids. Three coats of red are usually good to cover the wood. I then proceed with sub-assemblies, for instance all four lids used on the main deck. These are kept in the right order and I mark the lines of the planking, so that the lids when closed are following the hull planking. Planking of the lids takes place, followed by some sanding and verification that everything inserts correctly in the ports. Then, painting of the outside is done: The edges are painted in red, carefully: All the hardware is prepared after a soaking in a chemical solution, cold water rinsing and drying: The hinges are then positioned, according to the holes in the hull. That is a delicate part that must be done carefully for a good alignment of the ropes. The ropes used to lift the lids are then attached: And the lids glued to the hull, in their respective ports: 14 more lids to go.... Yves

Yeah...another marvel being created. Yves

Fantastic presentation of that beautiful model. Yves