yvesvidal

That is the trick.....faking the holes and not connecting them.
 
Yves

And the Next "Honey I shrunk the Bike" Award goes to.....
 
TIM!!!!
 
Congratulations Sir!!!
 
Fantastic result..... Anyone in pics would be hard pressed to tell the difference between model and real...
 
VERY VERY well done....

If you check into it, I'm pretty sure at least some of these "Italeri" motorcycle kits were actually produced in Japan. Maybe produced there for Italeri? Anyway, I just checked yesterday on Ebay by running generic searches...found 1:9 BMW's, 1:9 Zundapps, 1:9 Trumpets, 1:9 Harley Davidsons. Many for less cost that you might think. In some cases, $50 or just a shade more. Even AMT Blueprinter boxed and sold the 1:9 kits in a generic white box with black print. No graphics. It's all the same plastic inside. I actually have examples of them in my stash, so I can say this for certain. They came boxed as Italeri, AMT, ESCI, Aurora, and more. they are all the same kits.

Added the pilot's headrest and windscreens. The kit provide neither interior frames nor glazing templates for the latter; I made photocopies and used those as templates.
 

Any interest out there in a build log for another Tamiya 1/12th scale F1 car?

To scupper or not to scupper.
 
Most contemporary models do not show the scuppers.   In fact the contemporary model of Speedwell doesnt show the scuppers. I didnt add the scuppers on my Winnie build which was typical.  But I am going to show them on my speedwell.   Nothing fancy.   These arent too crazy to do.   Not like the hawse holes will be.  But you do have to be careful.  You need to carefully measure them inboard and outboard so they look like they line up.  You can actually use the deck planking templates because I have marked the inboard locations for all of the scuppers.
 
When I drill my scuppers I dont even try to drill them all the way through.   That adds unnecessary difficulty.   I drill shallow holes only about 1/16" deep or slightly more.   Inboard, I start with a small pilot hole with a small drill bit.   Then in this case, I used a #47 drill bit afterwards to make them larger.   Finally I used a round file to smooth out the hole’s insides.   I lightly sanded the inboard bulwarks over the scuppers with some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out any fraying.  This will require some paint touch-up later when they are all done.  The scupper holes were made flush with the deck level or just a hair above.
 
I prefer to use a soft pencil to darken the inside of the holes.  I made sure to cover the entire inside surface of the scuppers including the back of the hole.   Then I touch up the red bulwark paint.  On this model I drilled the scuppers before I added the waterway.  I just wanted to try something new.  It worked out really well for me.  No chipping or fraying of the water way at all.  You can do it whichever way is more comfortable for you.
 
The picture below shows the holes drilled and darkened with the pencil.   They are nice and dark.  I touched up the red paint as well on the bulwarks afterwards.  You can see the waterway strip also prepared in advance and ready to be glued into position.
 

The waterway is a 3/64" x 3/64" strip of cedar.  I sanded one of the four corners of the strip down its entire length.  I used an Emory board or sanding stick.   Basically I made it triangular in profile.  Then I held it in position so I could mark the positions for the scuppers along its length.  I really tried to get these exactly where they should be located.  I used a round mini file to make the half round openings along the length of the waterway where the scuppers were marked out.  Once in position this really looked good.   I used the same soft pencil to darken the round notches I made along the waterway as well.   Below you can see how the scuppers inboard turned out.  I made the waterway in two pieces for the gun deck rather than use one long strip that spanned across the whole length.
 

I also prepared the waterway for the poop deck, port and starboard.   This was easy...no scuppers, LOL.   Just make the strip triangular.  Dont worry about trying to make it concave or anything fancy.   
 
Here is a photo.
 

Finally to the outboard side.  No difference here really.   I used those outboard templates we used way back when....remember those.   If you have to shift the template fore and aft a bit to line them up with the inboard scuppers you made on the opposite side of the deck/hull its no big deal.   But this template will give you a really good start and can be rested atop the wales.
 

 
I drilled with a small drill bit first and again made the holes larger using the #47 bit.   I cleaned them up a bit and darkened them with a soft pencil.  Once again...no need to drill all the way through and hope you meet the same scupper hole you drilled on the inboard side.  Fake it ...till you make it .....I always say.   I drilled part way through once again.   Make sure you really darken them inside the holes nicely and completely.
 

Dont add the waterway on the fcastle deck yet.   I think it best to drill the hawse holes first.   I will be doing that next me thinks.
 

Andy, Pat, Keith, John, Greg, Hakan, Gary, Thank you all for your encouragement and "Little Ben" comments. Hakan - great news re June - does it have a personal pronoun yet?
 
I am well on with the precision sanding. As previously stated I coloured the frame edges as a sanding guide.
The preliminary rough sanding was done with 60 grit aluminium oxide paper held on a 2" x 8" cork block with rounded edges.
 
The surface was reduced until small areas of the frame edges started to lose their colour.

I then switched to 80m grit (on the same sanding block) and continued to remove the frame edge colouring. I sanded both sides alternatively while trying to maintain similar frame edge sanding patterns on each side.

I proceeded in this way until the majority of the coloured edges were removed.

I worked slowly from stern to bow.

Gradually producing balsa snow drifts.


I am about to switch to 120 grit before progressing with the final sanding / fairing.

 

The lego sorting is finished and the eye is Ok for some low dust workshop activities (I wore a pair of goggles just to be sure). Yesterday and today I recommenced work on the hull.
 
The following three pictures show internal views of Cangarda.


In the accommodation spaces the hull frames are hidden behind the internal cladding. I assume that space between the cladding and hull is full of insulation.  The only space where the framing is left exposed is in the engine room. 
 
In the accommodation spaces I decided to use balsa to create the walls. 

This was installed in the fashion of barrel making - the balsa only being slightly thicker than the depth off the webs on the frames. An internal view might make this confusing remark clearer. The internal surfaces will be sanded flat and clad internally when Cangarda is removed from the building board.

With the circular saw being out of action the cutting of the balsa was done with a razor saw.
 
I was distracted from the balsa work when I realised I had mistakenly made the prop shaft casing 18mm diameter when it should have been 14mm. I started carving it back but decided I needed a guide, so I turned up the guide indicated by the white arrow.

Positioning the guide in the casing allowed me to roughly carve the casing to approximately the correct size.

I then shaped a sanding block to the correct external diameter and finished the resizing by sanding.

It will probably take another week or so to finish the balsa work. The walls of the engine room will be devoid of the balsa filling.
 
 
 
 
 

Hi all, work continues. Now prototyping the davits. Most parts davit head, cleat,…not glued yet. Experimenting with best way to make them. Davits themselves still need cleaning and a bit more tapering towards the head.
cheers sascha
 

I have been kept away from the shipyard by illness (mild) and marriage duties. But I manage to get some progress on the steam engines.



And a dry fit.

Continuing the work. Following is the cross arm of the pitman.

Hope to put more time next week. 
 
Thanks for your support.
 

Hi Steven, a couple of thoughts.  If t is not too late, I would avoid a fret saw as the blade is very flexible and may wander while cutting?  I would look at a high tooth count fine stiff backed saw such as a small 'gentleman's' dovetail saw.  I bought one years ago and it has proven very reliable for this purpose. The following is a Zona version (I think Hobby Tools Australia have this brand).
 

 
The second is more of an alternative idea for your wheel spokes. - that is unless the real wheel has straight spokes anyway.  I have had previous success using tooth picks - the ones with the fancy ends like the cocktail ones.  I simply cut off the outer nub and round the new end a bit, then cut to length.  They look reasonably good when stained.  Your current one looks good, simply offering an alternative for future versions if interested.  These ones are available from Woolworths.
 

 
 
cheers
 
Pat

And here's the ship's wheel; just waiting for the glue to dry and I can cut it off its base. Should happen on Monday. Wish me luck!



Steven

she has returned, and dragged me with her, morning everyone
 
Apollo says hi to everyone as well

Last night May 24,2024 I open the box of my latest build. The king of the Mississippi  by Artesania Latina. I was hoping that the instructions were better than the last several ships that I have done. But in fact, they are worse 😕.  You only get a CD to install on your computer. It does show you how but with no part numbers, and three bundles of  wood, you have to figure out what size and separate them all.
The C D comes with a paper that says there are mistakes on it. And you have to go download the correct way.  Plus no part numbers makes it hard to follow along. I found this  diagram for the wood planks.  It helps.  I almost put it all back in the box and said I am selling this and buying a Dutchess of Kensington by Cris Watton of Vanguard Models. I just have to finish this one and I can buy it lol.
 If it was not for the fact that I will get lots of help here on MSW,  all the King of the Mississippi logs here show how it is done. So I decided ,I want a river boat to add to my collection and I am up for the challenge.

But if anyone wants to send me some info on part numbers, I  will gladly appreciate it. Even the  instructions  as well. 
 And for my first change to the plan , I have lots of walnut planking left from previous builds that I am going to plank the bottom with that because no one will see it but it will look nice. Then I will have enough planks for sure. 

So now it is time to start glueing the hull together.  I will square up all the bulkheads and flip it over and start the planking.
Tally Ho on to my next build, wish me luck, I am going to need it on this one. Lol 😆. 
Bob M.

I have been able to fix the mottled look by printing new segments on plain paper rather than card and gluing the new skin on. I am up to the window on the port side.  

Stern plating has commenced.
 
Plate #1, on the stern counter, in place.

Curious to see how this plays out with the subsequent plates of this area of the stern. I'm envisioning the overlap of the subsequent plates to rise above the rub rails. Should this be the case, I suppose there are two options. Remove Plate #1 and disregard plating this area, thus going with it as molded....or....go ahead and plate it and build up the rub rails.
 
Removal from the template is delicate.

 
The template numbered, as per instructions.

 
Thanks for looking.
 
Cheers,
Mark

On Board 

I wired up some LED's with 0,03 mm coated wire and tested for half an houher to be sure the wires did not get hot.

 
Untill next update, enjoy modelling.

The sides of the middle part of the wooden deck were finished by adding the Pontos brass strips and a fine wooden strip. The brass strips were layed between the wood veneer, and not on it. Thus no unevenness was created .  The shute covers were also glued in their place with PVA-glue.
 

 
Untill next update, enjoy modelling.

So now all those detail pieces are painted and mounted.  Pictures below are five of the area around the large superstructure stern turret, and five of the area around the bow turret.  There are two more large turrets aft and fore of these respectively, yet to be built.
 
The little winders are finished with thread to represent rope.  On the sides you will also see paravanes.  I was not aware that large ships like the Bismarck had paravanes to do their own minesweeping, but apparently so.
 
Regards,
David

As Craig indicated, there are a lot of 1/9 scale old motorcycles from Italeri, ESCI and from PROTAR (before Italeri bought back the molds). These models are rare, cost an arm and a leg on E-Bay and are not easy to build. The NORTON 500 MANX comes to mind, as well as the ZUNDAPP and BMW.
 
Take a look at this Japanese artist at http://kimshouse7015.com/index.html      In my humble opinion, he is THE BEST !!!!

Above is one of his models based on the same kit you just finished.
 
After this fantastic rendition of the Triumph you just built, you should look into the next candidate.
 
Yves
 

That is exactly why I did not drill these on my 1/48 Bellona. Way too dangerous.....
 
Yves

As Craig indicated, there are a lot of 1/9 scale old motorcycles from Italeri, ESCI and from PROTAR (before Italeri bought back the molds). These models are rare, cost an arm and a leg on E-Bay and are not easy to build. The NORTON 500 MANX comes to mind, as well as the ZUNDAPP and BMW.
 
Take a look at this Japanese artist at http://kimshouse7015.com/index.html      In my humble opinion, he is THE BEST !!!!

Above is one of his models based on the same kit you just finished.
 
After this fantastic rendition of the Triumph you just built, you should look into the next candidate.
 
Yves
 

As Craig indicated, there are a lot of 1/9 scale old motorcycles from Italeri, ESCI and from PROTAR (before Italeri bought back the molds). These models are rare, cost an arm and a leg on E-Bay and are not easy to build. The NORTON 500 MANX comes to mind, as well as the ZUNDAPP and BMW.
 
Take a look at this Japanese artist at http://kimshouse7015.com/index.html      In my humble opinion, he is THE BEST !!!!

Above is one of his models based on the same kit you just finished.
 
After this fantastic rendition of the Triumph you just built, you should look into the next candidate.
 
Yves
 

As Craig indicated, there are a lot of 1/9 scale old motorcycles from Italeri, ESCI and from PROTAR (before Italeri bought back the molds). These models are rare, cost an arm and a leg on E-Bay and are not easy to build. The NORTON 500 MANX comes to mind, as well as the ZUNDAPP and BMW.
 
Take a look at this Japanese artist at http://kimshouse7015.com/index.html      In my humble opinion, he is THE BEST !!!!

Above is one of his models based on the same kit you just finished.
 
After this fantastic rendition of the Triumph you just built, you should look into the next candidate.
 
Yves