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Jim Lad

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Everything posted by Jim Lad

  1. Nice to see that she passed the 'tank testing' stage. Onward and upward! John
  2. That looks a nice model, Ken! Have you had her out sailing (er, paddling) yet? John
  3. This would be a very interesting project, but would presuppose a fine skill in miniature metal working, as building a metal frame at model scale would be a major undertaking - although having said that, I'm aware of a model tea clipper built at a scale of 1:48 entirely from tinplate salvaged from used food cans. Most composite ships were built with a single layer of planking and, given the skills to build the metal frame, the next problem (as has already been raised) would be securely fixing the planks. It may be possible to drive headed pins through from the inside of the hull or, failing that, then fixing the planks with epoxy and then drilling through both plank and frame to insert pins, bolts or rivets. If the challenges mentioned above can be satisfactorily resolved (and I'm sure that they can, given a little thought and experiment), then the next question would be why build a composite model at all. The amount of work involved in such a project - far more than would be required of a model such as Ed's 'Young America'- would only be really justified if a cutaway model was planned. I'll be interested to hear any further thoughts that you have on such a project. John
  4. Looking really good, Mark! Have a very happy Christmas, mate! John
  5. Andy, I think I'd build the four sides of the boom separately and then make a simple jig to align them when they were joined up. Is that the way you're thinking? John
  6. Ollie, The painting shows her with conventional painted dummy gunports. The scuppers would be metal (probably lead) lined holes drilled through the bulwarks. You could easily leaving them off without spoiling the model in any way. John
  7. In the summer, Tom - sunrise here is at 5.40 at the moment! John
  8. Great to see another update, mate! She's looking first class! John
  9. You can do it, Tom! Looking forward to your results. John
  10. Tom, Yes, the 'Nareau' is 1:96. Now that the model is completed the log is probably somewhere down the bottom of the heap in the scratch forum, but it'll still ber there! John
  11. Coming along very nicely, Michael! John
  12. Beautiful work (as usual), Tom. On my 'Nareau' I needed several bottle screws for the funnel stays. I made them from lengths of 1/32" brass tube with a length of fine brass wire through the tube and turned into an eye at each end. John
  13. Oh dear, oh dear, Ollie. You're just working on your first build and it looks like you're already starting to drift towards the 'Dark Side' of scratch building. Once that starts, I'm afraid there's no cure! John
  14. Bob - it's good to see her actually started! Great fun to watch. Keith - to be strictly accurate, that jib isn't actually backed, or aback. When a sail is aback the wind is coming from the wrong side of the sail, which isn't the case in this photo. Looking at the foresail, which is pretty slack, I'd hazard a guess that she's actually just going about onto the starboard tack and the jib sheet (not clew line) hasn't yet been changed across. Yes, the innermost jib or fore staysail is always the one to windward and as you go forward, each jib is set further to leeward. The sheets are changed across as the ship tacks. In square rigged ships the jibs are used to help bring the ship's head around onto the new tack. The boom on the fore staysail will be attached to a swivel at the stem and the sheet may well be led to a horse across the fore deck. The boom has the effect of stiffening the foot of the sail and helping it to hold its shape. John
  15. I'm afraid Jud is right. Once the rigging has decayed, there's nothing to be done but to re-rig. John
  16. If the new bare piece of deck doesn't dull down properly, Michael, you could always add a fancy moulding round the base. John
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