dvm27

Hello : I have assembled a plywood to start working on the deck planking and for the execution of the gunwales. I have marked some lines of reference, and I have cut the stem, which is pending to thicken, but which I needed for the separation of the apostles, (Sorry, I do not translate it into English). I also put a plan of the planking of the cover. I had my doubts about the arrangement of the deck tables, but it seems that Chapelle draws them like that. Where I have doubts is in the width of the gunwale when it runs through the transom, I do not know if it should have the width of the rudder trunk, or not. a greeting  
(Hola a todos:
Ya he montado un contrachapado para comenzar a trabajar en le tablazón de la cubierta y para la ejecución de los trancaniles.
He marcado unas lineas de referencia, y he cortado la roda, que esta pendiente de regruesar, pero que necesitaba para la separación de los apóstoles.
Os pongo también un plano de la tablazón de la cubierta. Tenia mis dudas respecto a la disposición de las tablas de cubierta, pero parece que Chapelle las dibuja así.
Donde tengo dudas es en ancho del trancanil cuando discurre por el espejo de popa, no se si debe tener el ancho de la limera del timon, o no.

Un saludo)

You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
 

It has to be heated to cherry red first to soften it, and allowed to air-cool. This process is called tempering. Then the metal can be filed or ground. To re-harden it, heat it again and quench it in oil.

You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
 

Sweet work, Mike. A major advantage of scoring the rising wood for the floor timbers is apparent in your model at this stage. Each frame is positively indexed on the keel and there is no chance of cumulative error while assembling the frames. Wish I had done that on my Swan class model. It would have actually made the framing process a lot easier.

I do have a complete set of those Micro Shapers and find the profiles too large for most of the moldings I need at 1:48 scale.

I do have a complete set of those Micro Shapers and find the profiles too large for most of the moldings I need at 1:48 scale.

I do have a complete set of those Micro Shapers and find the profiles too large for most of the moldings I need at 1:48 scale.

I do have a complete set of those Micro Shapers and find the profiles too large for most of the moldings I need at 1:48 scale.

Don turned 6 support columns for each of us, and as it happened, we all chose a different design.  The extra one is insurance against our propensity to screw things up!  The first photo shows the three sets of blanks. 
 
I cut mine slightly (1/32") long so I could fine tune the fit to any irregularities in the upper deck beams or lower deck surface.  The dry fit worked out well.  the columns were then numbered on the bottom so they go back in the right place.  Each was trimmed/sanded so all 5 rested on the lower deck, and none were "suspended " in air!

You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
 

You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
 

You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
 

You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
 

You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
 

You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
 

You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
 

I appreciate the voices of support for SeaWatchBooks. As a lot of you know I am a one man band; sort of leader of the band. I have processed thousands of your orders over the years along with managing authors, editors, designers, computer graphics experts, fulfillment service people and my print management crew. Somewhere in this semi controlled confusion something goes wrong. We try and fix it with various degrees of success. 
But as long as there is a good supply of duct tape and a hank of bailing wire I think we will be able to keep most of you happy.
Thanks for your patience
 
Bob Friedman

Good morning.

Hi - 
 
You certainly have a large challenge in front of you.  Whenever I am approached to restore a hobby-built kit model, I always ask "How much do you love the model and the modeler?"  In your case your love for your grandfather and his work is quite evident.  That settled, there is a huge amount of work to be done, but it is not hopeless at all.  Taking it one step at a time is the way to go, just like building the kit in the first place.
 
If you do go forward, I recommend that you get "Ship Modelers' Shop Notes, vol. II" from the NRG shop.  I included a specific section on restorations.  Rob Napier and others give a good introduction to the skills and methods used.  Rob has a longer article in the Journal which you can get, and he has written a book on his restoration of an antique museum model.
 
I am always happy to help out with general questions or specific problems.  Don't worry about my time.  Second only to building ship models I love talking about them.  Contact me through this website or my email at shipmodel@aol.com
 
Best of success
 
Dan
 

Fig-132 Showing two stub masts, one fitted with the stiffening ribs on the inside.  The angle iron (brass) ribs were only able to be soldered in place at the extreme ends of the Masts, as it was impossible to get the carbon rod very far down the inside of the mast, with out breaking most of the other soft soldered joints, holding it all together.  Which begs the question, of how in 1878, did they riven these plates together, and then rivet the stiffening bars down the inside as well.  I have asked this question around among those of an age and in the service.  One answer I came up with from several quarters, was that they would send a boy - down-the-tube - to assist from the inside.  Although this might conceivably have been possible with the large diameter Masts, it does not answer the same question for the smaller diameter yards, that were also constructed of riveted iron plates.  Perhaps we will never know, as with so many things of by-gone days, now all but forgotten with the passing generations.

Post 30
The last few Strakes
To speed up the final planking process I used a previously made bow section plank as a template. With the intended plank pre bent, the template pattern was marked on and a scalpel used to shape the actual fit.

1149
I sited the last strake to be third up from the Garboard which places it on the underside of the hull.

1162
I used wider 7/32" stuff for this plank gradually pared down and shaped to fit.

1158
The final strakes were fairly well matched for size and shape.
I also used wider stuff for the aftermost plank in strake five, to allow for the increased flare as the plank  meets the Stern post.
So eight months on the planking is completed.

1295

1296

1298

1299

1303

1306

1308

1318
At this point very little sanding has been done.

1313
Not too sure I have the full approval of my shipwright assistant, and I think he is probably right to cast a critical eye over my progress.
Still a lot of work to do on the hull planking to get it looking as good as I can, but I fear it will never match some of the work done by my fellow Cheerful builders.
The sanding process will now continue followed by the delightful prospect of treenailing, what joy.
I intend to use the simulated method of indicating treenails.
 
B.E.
30/07/2018
 
 

I have been working on a little project lately, something I've wanted to do for years, making my own boat.
It's an Iain Oughtred design, Tammie Norrie, a 4.5mtr (15 foot) clinker sailing dinghy.
 
I'm really enjoying using full sized hand tools, especially the planes but the lessons learned in ship modelling have been a huge help.

Hello,
thanks for the nice comments, and also for
the LIKES.
An anchor buoy has been completed in the meantime.
I put the buoy rope around the arm of the anchor and tied it to the anchor shaft twice.The size of the buoy rope is one-third of the cable. The length varies, for it is shortened or lengthened according to the depth of the water in which you will drop the anchor.
Usually the buoy rope  was at least 18 threads long.