dvm27

Done. Under high magnification, it looks a little coarse, but it is a very tiny part.
 
Drazen

Hello,
 
today I finished the lower counter. 
 

 

 
The only thing left here, is to cut the mortise for the gun port lid into the rail. 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Final touches on the display case.
Installing the pear "skirts". They needs to be thinned down a bit, and they are too wide for my thickness planer. So I planed them manually. Was a bit too aggressive, and, whooops!

 
Argh! I do not have any spare wood, did not expected to break a simple flat sheet
Luckily, it broke quite clearly, and it was easy to glue it back together:

 
The crack is barely visible on the finished product.
 
Installing the skirts. They are glued with epoxy, to avoid any cupping / warping due to moisture. It was a breeze, epoxy is so much better for that kind of work!

 
Now I can fine fit all pieces together. A bit of planing:

 
And then a lot of sanding. I love sanding, it turns ugly into smooth and beautiful, hiding all mistakes

 
Now the part that made me nervous - cutting a hole for the LED control knob. There is only one chance to do it right, and no spare wood to cover mistakes.
So I scored the circle to reduce tearout (breaking the wood fibers that could be teared apart by the drill otherwise):

 
And then applied tonns of masking tape and started to drill, slooooooowly. The hole saw is adjusted to the precise diameter with a zip tie  

 
Few nervous minutes later - the hole looks pretty hole-ish! Phew, no screw-up.

 
After a bit of sanding magic:

 
And the final result: 

 
I'm a bit scared to pull all that plastic away, already got used to it  
 

Hello dear friends,
I am very pleased, you like my work. Thank you all for your praise and kind comments.
Well, it seems to be a man´s figure, but if I understand well the description of Vale´s painting from NMM, the central figure is a carving of Queen Catherine.
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/15079.html
 
It depends on the complexity of a particular statuette/decoration, but usually takes me about 2-5 hours. But for example a larger figurehead can take me more than two days....
 
Oh, good question....  We take turns with my husband or mom. Telling the truth, we often do things together, it's better and faster.
 
Thank you very much for your support and good advice.I am glad I have decided to recreate the Queen´s sculpture again and believe, now she looks better.
 
And how you asked about the furnishing of the great cabin - of course I am going to make it in a high level of detail. Maybe I will place there some crew members as well. The decks are not fixes in place yet.
 
*****************************************************
Please enjoy the pics and have a great time.
 



 

And here I have finally created the sculpture of the Queen Catherine. I used her portraits and other sources of suitable information to achieve this appearance.
https://www.google.cz/search?biw=1366&bih=662&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=WbrlWunRM4ymsgH53b2gCQ&q=queen+catherine+of+braganza&oq=queen+catherine+of+braganza+&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i30k1.7973.7973.0.9707.1.1.0.0.0.0.113.113.0j1.1.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.1.113....0.0GmofsBz4WU
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catherine_of_Braganza
 
The clothing is in an ancient style similar to the Vale's painting.
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=110763&start=420#p2108444
https://www.modelforum.cz/download/file.php?id=1399865
 


 
 
In the last two photos there is a statue after some minor improvements.
 

 

Answered by PM

The kit provides the various friezes all sized and ready to be inserted into the panels.
Chuck describes using a glue stick to adhere the friezes. As I didn't have a glue stick I
diluted some white glue, used a paint brush to apply it to the area inside the panels
and then gently press the frieze in place. 
 

 

 

 
 

 
Next I will paint and install the bow flag support brace and the step.

I've recently switched to Birchwood Casey Brass Black as I find it easier and more consistent than the Jax blackener. I also use 320 grit sandpaper on the brass (or before I form rings and other small items). Soak the piece in alcohol first (or vinegar) to degrease. The B.C. solution is applied with a small brush and only takes 10-15 seconds to work. Rinse in water then see if you want the piece darker. If so just repeat the above process.
 
I also do not solder my rings but do file the ends after forming the circle. This makes a neat joint. I can't imagine why you would need to solder the breeching rings unless your cannon was actually going to fire!
 
And I now use only silver soldering paste. It is self fluxing and flows beautifully, Check out  https://www.beaducation.com/pc/393-jewelry-making-tools-soldering-fusing-tools. Also, look at the videos on silver soldering and other jewelry work. they're terrific. And remember - you need a tight joint for silver solder to flow.

Answered by PM

Hey guys - this forum is supposed to be in English. What language are you speaking?

Hello,
Here I show step by step how to make the detail for the bolts.


In the meantime, I have made as far as all fitting parts for the double blocks of the backstays.

Hi, and tank you, aviaamator
 
anothers pictures:
 

We had a great time at the Northeast Joint Clubs Conference last weekend. Lots of beautiful models on display. My girlfriend, Ofelia, did most of the picture taking. I Finally got to meet a number of MSW members while I was there which was really nice.
 
Now that I'm back in build mode, I managed to taper the knee of the head and complete the gammoning knee and extension piece that sit above it. Templates were made from the plan drawings and transferred to 3/16" boxwood sheet.

Mike

Great photo, Ed! I'd never seen those fairleads before. I also appreciate the way the ratline ends were spliced. I don't recall how you handled these in your build but if you managed to splice them on your model I'd need to rate your model an 11 (ala Monty Python) instead of a perfect 10.

Terrific  posting, Ed! It's amazing how well the wipe on poly resists smudging from alcohol and blackening solution. Blackening in place certainly solves the problem of damaging the metal finish during installation.
 
I note an additional iron band on the starboard yard plan that was not installed on the model (eighth from center). Illustration error?

To Druxey - some sails will be partially furled - fore and main course, sprit sail and sprit topsail - from this reason I saved little bit time and made no water holes - they will not be visible.
To Ilhan Gokcay - there are only two folds at the edge. The edges are reinforced with diluted PVA ( 3 (water):1 (PVA) ratio). After drying is posiible tu cut the cloth without fraying.The belts are made from the same reinforced cloth - without folds.
Mike R - bolt rope is attached with glue for textile.
Now all the sails are attached to their yards.

Great start, Omega. Curious web site for this yacht. Only exterior photos. Usually, there are numerous photos of the staterooms and cabins with yachts such as these.

Very nice work Jason. I like the spirketting and coaming colors, I find that automotive black spray primer followed by sprayed black does a nice job of simulating iron. The key is to apply several light coats so no detail is obscured.

I've recently switched to Birchwood Casey Brass Black as I find it easier and more consistent than the Jax blackener. I also use 320 grit sandpaper on the brass (or before I form rings and other small items). Soak the piece in alcohol first (or vinegar) to degrease. The B.C. solution is applied with a small brush and only takes 10-15 seconds to work. Rinse in water then see if you want the piece darker. If so just repeat the above process.
 
I also do not solder my rings but do file the ends after forming the circle. This makes a neat joint. I can't imagine why you would need to solder the breeching rings unless your cannon was actually going to fire!
 
And I now use only silver soldering paste. It is self fluxing and flows beautifully, Check out  https://www.beaducation.com/pc/393-jewelry-making-tools-soldering-fusing-tools. Also, look at the videos on silver soldering and other jewelry work. they're terrific. And remember - you need a tight joint for silver solder to flow.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 283 – More on Ratlines
 
There have been some questions on splicing and lashing ratlines at this scale, so the process I use is outlined below in more detail than I usually put in these posts.
 
There are perhaps about 500 individual ratlines on the model.  For the past ten days or so, I have been working diligently to get caught up with these.  It is fairly easy, dull work but it can be a nightmare in the presence of other rigging - as I have learned while installing some on the fore mast after much of the surrounding rigging was in place.  Not a good idea.  At this stage I have settled on a process for this work that is described below.
 
The ratlines are 1½" rope, about .007" diameter at 1:72 scale.  I used No. 80 crocheting cotton for these, dyed with dilute India ink and de-fuzzed by passing twice through the flame of an alcohol burner.  The ends of each ratline have eye splices that are lashed to the outer shrouds, with clove hitches on the intermediate shrouds.  I used No. 100 mercerized cotton polyester thread for the lashings. 
 
One of the eye splices is put on each ratline at the workbench in batches of about 15 lines.  The first step is shown below.
 

 
A needle is passed through the ratline, then threaded and pulled through to form a loop.  This is then placed over a pin on the splicing fixture, pulled taut and touched with slightly dilute, darkened wood glue as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Both ends are held taut by pressing on two-faced carpet tape on the fixture.  When the glue has completely dried, the short end is cut off as shown below.
 

 
Small, sharp scissors seem to be best for this, cutting off the loose end and part of the hardened glue to simulate the shape of a splice.   Finished splices are shown in the next picture from an earlier post.
 

 
The spliced end is lashed to the outer shroud as shown in the next pictures.
 

 
The lashing is passed through the eye and around the shroud twice, then secured with an overhand knot.  When pulled tight the height may be adjusted by eye to set the correct uniform spacing.  Clove hitches are then used on the intermediate shrouds.
 
The next picture shows ratlines on the port lower mizzen shrouds.  The left lashing has been secured and the center clove hitch tied.  The remaining pictures show the method for forming and lashing the second eye splice.
 

 
In this picture the first of two passes of lashing thread is being looped over the ratline and around the right hand shroud.  An overhand knot is then tied, positioned and the ratline pulled through as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The ratline is then threaded on a needle that is passed through the ratline just inside the shroud as shown next.
 

 
The last picture shows the formed eye and the lashing being pulled tight.
 

 
The knots are wetted with dilute glue to keep them from loosening. The ends are clipped off short to avoid entanglements with following work.  When the glue has dried these ends are clipped off as close to the knot as possible.
 
Ed

Thanks aviaamator. Neat looking eyes and rings. I’m using same method for creating rings but I’m committing to using bare copper now then blacked after. 
 
Thanks Greg. All good advice. I think your right about the silver soldering of the rings being a bit overkill but it’s a new skill I need to master so will do a few more that way until I get confident or bored, whichever happens sooner. 
Hmmm... where can I get some 2mm cannon balls 
 
Anyway thanks to all of you for your great comments. I’ve put it all into practice now and here is what I came up with.
 

 

 
My Blackening routine was:
1 Clean in hot soapy water with an old toothbrush and rinse in water
2 Soak in White Vinegar for 10 minutes and rinse in water
3 Soak in neat Birchwood Casey Brass Black (BCBB) for about 30 secs and rinse in water
4 Clean any CA residue patches (not blacked) with Acetone
5 Polish with paper towel
6 repeat previous steps from 3 until satisfied (3 or 4 times I found for me)
 
I didn’t get a true black finish but I’m reasonable happy with the dark grey that I got. Also I only handled the items with tweezers during the blacking process.
 
Thanks all again. 

Hello,
 
thank you Nils and Karl for your friendly words and all others for your likes.
 
Now the rudder is mostly ready. Next task is to plank the lower counter
 

 

 

 
 

Hi Charlie - 
 
The shipbuilders' rule is that no plank should ever taper to less than half its original width.  When you find your spiled planks getting that narrow, it's time for a drop plank.  Now that you have some planks laid, you can pencil in the rest of the strakes to see where stealers will be needed. 
 
Looking good.
 
Dan

Here's a pic of the one that the wood work and brick work are completed in "extreme" closeup.    I see that I need a bit of touch up paint.. hmm.. missed that I did when I effected repairs after the glue pulled the paint off.  And there's dust all over it. I took the picture outside so there's some "hotspots"... 
 
Needs the two brass pots and also the top with chimney.  I bought the brass to today so I'll start pushing my envelope tomorrow or as soon as the other fireplace is done. 
 
These are more of a test to push myself harder.  I'm not unhappy with them.... just realize I need to push a bit harder.
 

More than likely, these Navy Board models were built as collaborations under the supervision of the Master Shipwright. The team consisted of master carvers, jewelers and apprentice shipwrights. Little is known of them but a few have left  notes behind hidden in the models and have recently been discovered via  endoscopes. One excellent reference on the builders and their models is Ship Models, Their Purpose and Development from 1650 to the Present, by Brian Lavery and Simon Stevens.