dvm27

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.

I use 6-32 threaded rod and 6/32 Acorn nut or knurled knob. The rod comes in 12" lengths so it can be trimmed to a custom size. I thread the acorn nut onto one end. You will drill two hoes in the building board that correspond with the holes in the keel. make them slightly larger than the keel holes to allow for adjustments on the building board. Do not tap these holes. Now insert the threaded rods with the acorn nut on the end through a washer, then building board and thread into the keel. continue until the acorn nut snugs against the washer. Mark the exit of the threaded rod where atop the heel and cut flush. I don't glue mine into place as it us helpful to remove the hull sometimes (especially when fairing). I do glue the acorn nut onto the threaded rod once the final position of the threaded rod is determined (using Loctite).

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.

Terrific start. If you haven't downloaded the instructions from our website http://chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Echo_cross-section_framing_instructions.pdf
please do so. They're free but not sure how long the website will remain there.

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.

I use 6-32 threaded rod and 6/32 Acorn nut or knurled knob. The rod comes in 12" lengths so it can be trimmed to a custom size. I thread the acorn nut onto one end. You will drill two hoes in the building board that correspond with the holes in the keel. make them slightly larger than the keel holes to allow for adjustments on the building board. Do not tap these holes. Now insert the threaded rods with the acorn nut on the end through a washer, then building board and thread into the keel. continue until the acorn nut snugs against the washer. Mark the exit of the threaded rod where atop the heel and cut flush. I don't glue mine into place as it us helpful to remove the hull sometimes (especially when fairing). I do glue the acorn nut onto the threaded rod once the final position of the threaded rod is determined (using Loctite).

Post One hundred and Seventy-one
Album photo's
I have at last got around to taking the completion photo’s which will form part of the Photo build record book that I’m currently putting together.

4395
4361A

4392

4364

4365

4391

4390

4396

4369

4405

4395

2161A

2145a

4397

2162a

2164a

4380

4379

4388

4494a
I am currently faffing around with a clinker built 18’ cutter, and ‘Indy’ is yet to be enclosed in her case, so the story has not quite ended.
 
Then there’s the 26’ Launch, still on my mind.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

I use 6-32 threaded rod and 6/32 Acorn nut or knurled knob. The rod comes in 12" lengths so it can be trimmed to a custom size. I thread the acorn nut onto one end. You will drill two hoes in the building board that correspond with the holes in the keel. make them slightly larger than the keel holes to allow for adjustments on the building board. Do not tap these holes. Now insert the threaded rods with the acorn nut on the end through a washer, then building board and thread into the keel. continue until the acorn nut snugs against the washer. Mark the exit of the threaded rod where atop the heel and cut flush. I don't glue mine into place as it us helpful to remove the hull sometimes (especially when fairing). I do glue the acorn nut onto the threaded rod once the final position of the threaded rod is determined (using Loctite).

Terrific start. If you haven't downloaded the instructions from our website http://chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Echo_cross-section_framing_instructions.pdf
please do so. They're free but not sure how long the website will remain there.

Terrific start. If you haven't downloaded the instructions from our website http://chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Echo_cross-section_framing_instructions.pdf
please do so. They're free but not sure how long the website will remain there.

Terrific start. If you haven't downloaded the instructions from our website http://chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Echo_cross-section_framing_instructions.pdf
please do so. They're free but not sure how long the website will remain there.

Well this is probably ill-advised, but I've decided to start on the Admiralty Models HMS Echo cross-section (1:48). I actually ordered the framing package for this kit from Crown Timberyard way back in....I can't even remember when....a long enough while ago....and in fact a number of years ago I put together the keel, false keel & rising wood for this build - getting a feel for my then newly purchased mini table saw and disc sander. But since then I haven't done anything, taking some time off modelling and then finishing both the Bluenose and my little Off Center sailing skiff and commencing on Corel's HMS Bellona. 
 
Bellona is currently at the stage of the second layer of lower planking - a time when I frequently tire of the slow and repetitive work of planking and try to build momentum by breaking it up not with other work, but by starting a totally different model! This is why I say "ill-advised"....but....
 
I also sometimes use new model builds as excuses to expand the workshop - this is one of those times. Because I absolutely needed a drill press to drill out the mounting holes in the keel/rising wood assembly, right? Plus the numerous other uses that this tool will see in the shop....right? In any case, I feel that with the drill press my tool complement is complete so at least I can close that chapter....for now.
 
So here are a couple of images of the keel/rising wood assembly - the rabbet still needs a bit of cleaning up on both sides, but otherwise, I'm pretty happy with the results. Next I'll be making a building board, drilling out the mounting holes & then starting on the framing - my first time at this, unless you count a couple of test futtocks I cut out several years ago as a trial....in any case, not sure how quickly this will go, but I'm looking forward to this one as a new type of challenge. Bye for now
hamilton

Welcome back, mini-me, to minier-me!
 
Nice to read a good-news story for a change! Thanks, Chuck.

Did Mini-me bring a camera? I’m sure he’s had an adventure! How many model ship decks has he walked since he left?
 
Or is the next piece of electronic equipment that he’s going to get an ankle monitor?
 
Andy

was just out sowing his royal oats.

It was so great to see everyone at the New London show yesterday.  There were some fantastic models on display.  I hope everyone has a safe trip back to their workshops.
 
And talking about a safe journey back to the workshop.  Many of you may recall that 4 and maybe even 5 years ago, Someone swiped my mini-me off the Winnie model under construction at the show.  
 
I am happy to report that after several years as hostage…and with no ransom paid,  someone anonymously released mini-me and placed him in the depths of the speedwell model at this years show.  I was happy to find him below deck upon my return to the shop.  No harm was apparent on “mini-me” and he is in good health.  Thank you goes out to person for having a change of heart and I am sure that both of you will sleep a bit  more soundly this evening!!   Since I have lost 30 pounds this year so far...mini-me will now undertake the same dietary and exercise regime that I am now unfortunately tolerating.
 
You cant make this stuff up!!!
 

almost done with the head rails.

Knee of the head Mk. II.  I messed up the first one when I was sanding the backside to fit the stem.  I learned my lesson and made up a sanding block with the same profile of the stem to sand back the second version.  This time I used brown artists pigment mixed into the Titebond glue.  The lines are hardly visible, but show up nicely when the wood is damp.  I will stick to that approach for the rest of the build. The stem, keel, and knee of the head are just on the bench for show and not glued up yet.
 
Adam
 
 

Beautiful work!   Can you share what material you used to make the piece in the photo below and how you made it?   
Thank you
Allan

Filling transoms.

In general I have completed work on the small boat. On the drawing it comes without metal fastenings for the mast, after some thought I decided to do it as on the drawing. What is left to do is to cover it with oil, make two slipways and install it inside the  longboat.

Hi Vossey,
 
I will try to describe the technique I use for 'cheesing' the tail ends of tackles. Not my original idea, but it works well for me.  First soak your rope/thread, cut to an appropriate size (if doing separate) in a diluted solution of PVS/water ( I use about a 60 water/40 PVA).  If using the actual tail end of the tackle, this still works but just soak the required length of the tail (working end of the falls)
 
I use two small squares (or round) of clear plastic (from shirt boxes or the like).  I punch a pin (usually a tack with raised plastic head) through both (See Photo).  Separate the two leaving the upper plastic square/round on the pin, and put the outer/tail end of the rope/thread through the centre hole of the bottom square with about 1 to 2mm protruding to the bottom side.  Put the pin back into this such that it holds the end and makes a sandwich with the thread between both plastic squares.  Now rotate either the assembly or wind the thread around the centre pin to start making a flat cheesed coil to the desired diameter.  Allow the finished coil to dry before removing; the plastic does not let them stick too much but still take some care when separating the coil from the plastic.  These 'jigs' are so easy and cheap to make you can dispose and remake as required, especially when the centre holes become too large from wear/use.

 
Just one way to do it.  
 
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Margin planking has been installed on the port side!
 

This is very exciting because once I am finished with the margin planks on the starboard side, full deck planking can proceed rapidly (with a deck framing reveal on the port side).
 
As you can see, some repainting of the deck framing that will be revealed is in order.

Now it's time to build magazines and all sorts of decks and beams. For that phase an accurate depth gauge is essential, so I've let my brain overthink yet another tool 
 
The requirements are:
1) Soft plastic or wood to avoid scratching the model
2) Nice looking and pleasure to use, that tool would be in active service for at least a decade.
3) Ideally it should have a thumbwheel or a knob for fine adjustment. 
 
I have a cheap plastic vernier calliper that satisfies the first requirement, but it does not have an knob / thumbwheel.

Could not find any plastic callipers with a knob, unfortunately. The plastic ones are already rare enough, let alone with a wheel adjuster.
 
Then I spotted a Lego set with a container loader ("reach stacker", to be more precise) that has a worm gear and tried to make an abomination out of it. It is surprisingly challenging to build a compact functional tool out of random lego parts, a whole puzzle of its own. Respect to people who do it on a regular basis!

It kind of works, but the play and precision is not good enough for my needs. 
So I gave up on the wheel adjuster requirement and went back to the simple "calliper on a gantry" setup.
It was a nice warmup to recover some skills that I've lost over years of inactivity.
 

This time I even got help from my little helper! She enjoyed cranking the mill  

 
The resulting design has two parts - sliding gantry (no t-tracks, it is stable enough on its own) and a "calliper holder" that slides sideways on the gantry to allow the gantry keep contact with both sides of the baseboard.
The bottom edge of the caliper is trimmed to a flatter profile to avoid hitting the keelson. Both ends of the calliper can be used for a markup to allow for a comfortable pencil positioning.
The setup relies on three clamps to fix everything in position. These plastic clamps are a bit of an eyesore, maybe I will sidetrack again to build a nicer ones  


 
 

Hello everyone, I am embarking on this new project, my favorite period is 1800, after having built a French ship and an English frigate, I am trying my hand at building a corvette, Boudriot's plans do not include the framework , I therefore proceeded to the drawing myself, by hand, what I needed to build this corvette in frame, I must thank Gérard Delacroix for the advice he gave me and for the plans he provided me, he was very kind, and thanks also to Francis Jonet for making one of his available books, after spending twenty days drawing, I started the construction with the axial elements, let's see what comes out of it , any errors will be corrected during the construction phase. This time I'm building in 1:48, because the model allows me to have manageable dimensions for me: